GROUND WIRES?????????????
#1
11-28-2007, 07:44 AM
GROUND WIRES?????????????
Greetings I was told there were a total of 5 GROUND WIRES on my truck in the engine area. If so where are they located so I can check them because this was listed as another possible reason for a CEL I've been getting. Thanks! I have a 98 Ram Sport 4X4 5.9L.
Also my driver side door locks works intermittently. I can here the actuator when I hit the switch but most of the times it will not lock the door then it will surprise me by working. The passenger side is fine no worries. Thanks!
Also my driver side door locks works intermittently. I can here the actuator when I hit the switch but most of the times it will not lock the door then it will surprise me by working. The passenger side is fine no worries. Thanks!
#2
11-28-2007, 08:19 AM
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RE: GROUND WIRES?????????????
I'm not sure about the ground wire locations but I have a couple of ideas on the door lock.
Have you tried using an electrical component cleaning spray on the connections from the switch to the motor? Sometimes there will be a slight amount of corrosion on the surface of the metal in the connector that will cause enough voltage drop to keep the unit from getting enough power to operate, but just enough to cause it to sound like it is working. Either a spray cleaner of just simply using a small brush with alcohol will clean small amounts of surface haze and make the connections much better.
Also, you may want to take a look at the moving parts inside the door. I've had problems in the past where things loose their lubrication over time and this causes excessive drag on the components. The windows would move slowly and the door locks would only fully funtion some of the time. It won't take too much time to clean the connections and relube the moving parts with grease, but once you've seen the improvements this can make, you'll be doing the other side for peace of mind. I also do the door latch, hinges, and springs at the same time and the doors not only shut VERY easily, but are also squeak-free. Hope this helps.
Have you tried using an electrical component cleaning spray on the connections from the switch to the motor? Sometimes there will be a slight amount of corrosion on the surface of the metal in the connector that will cause enough voltage drop to keep the unit from getting enough power to operate, but just enough to cause it to sound like it is working. Either a spray cleaner of just simply using a small brush with alcohol will clean small amounts of surface haze and make the connections much better.
Also, you may want to take a look at the moving parts inside the door. I've had problems in the past where things loose their lubrication over time and this causes excessive drag on the components. The windows would move slowly and the door locks would only fully funtion some of the time. It won't take too much time to clean the connections and relube the moving parts with grease, but once you've seen the improvements this can make, you'll be doing the other side for peace of mind. I also do the door latch, hinges, and springs at the same time and the doors not only shut VERY easily, but are also squeak-free. Hope this helps.
#3
11-28-2007, 10:39 AM
#4
11-28-2007, 08:55 PM
RE: GROUND WIRES?????????????
well there are only 3 comming off the bat (on a 98 anyways) i just changed all mine on the weekend, there is 1 going to the bolt on the power steering pump, one going to the top lip of the fender by the red susport and one going to the bumper pracket (stupedest place ive ever seen to put a ground, i mooked that one to the frame and then just ran the ware fron the bolt in the frame to the bumper bracket just incace there is some reason for the ground being there that i dont know about)
#6
11-29-2007, 08:15 AM
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RE: GROUND WIRES?????????????
(Thanks my friend will do. Are these components easily accesible once I take the door panel off? Do I have to remove any of these components to clean them?)
None of the mechanisms will have to be removed for this, but the door panel, door switches, and plastic underneath will. Leave the door lock lever in place. The door panel will easily pull up and over it once it has been taken off of the door. It will take only a little finessing to do so.
Once you take the door panel off, you will have to carefully loosen the clear plastic that is glued to the door at the bottom of these holes to gain access to the larger openings in the door, or you can just remove it completely from over the holes. I feel that if it was put there from the factory, there had to be a reason for it so I tried to lossen it from the bottom and pulled it upward to open the hole. That way when I was done I just laid it back down and it was pretty much back in place. On the other door of my truck, this plastic had already been removed so this wasn't an issue and it hasn't caused any problems that I've detected so I didn't worry about it. I had to get in there by hand to apply the grease in the tracks of the window mechanisms. This can be a litttle messy if you're not careful. Go slowly, use only one hand to apply grease, have plenty of disposable rags close at hand, and touch only the parts that you want grease on them so you don't end up cleaning grease off of the windows. You will have to operate the window motor up and down, with your hands out of the door, (VERY IMPORTANT!!!) watching as it moves to make sure you get enough grease in the track and anywhere else there are moving parts. As for the door lock mechanism, you should be able to lube it from these same large openings. Just make sure when you are in there to double check if anything is bent or obviously out of place and getting bound up causing any issues. I can't remember specifically what the door lock mechanism looks like, but I believe I used grease on it for lubrication as well. If it has parts that look like a little grease would be bad, I would use WD-40 instead. WD-40 doesn't always last that long so if the moving parts can be greased without causing problems, that's what I would do. Once you've greased everywhere that has touching moving parts, and before you close it all up, double check all movement one more time so you know it has been done thoroughly. Leaving a little grease packed in the window channel is good so it has plenty tucked in there for long term use.
If you happen to get grease on the window glass, I would suggest getting it cleaned up before putting the door back together. Once you've done that, and the window is operated and gets grease on the felt seals, it would become a much bigger pain to clean up. As long as you take it slow, you really shouldn't end up with any grease on the windows or anything else except where you wanted it. Using only one hand for grease keeps the other one clean for handling the door and switches. If it becomes necessary to change hands for greasing for easier acces to an area, use the rags to clean all grease from your hand and start with the other.
I hope this helps. It is definitely worth it once you've done this. The windows will operate much better, and as in my case, won't screach as they go up. Your door locks should work more freely as well. Don't forget to make sure that the electrical connections are good while you have the door apart.
It may seem like a lot of work, but it isn't so bad once you get started. I've done this to just about all of the vehicles I've owned and won't hesitate to do it again if needed.
None of the mechanisms will have to be removed for this, but the door panel, door switches, and plastic underneath will. Leave the door lock lever in place. The door panel will easily pull up and over it once it has been taken off of the door. It will take only a little finessing to do so.
Once you take the door panel off, you will have to carefully loosen the clear plastic that is glued to the door at the bottom of these holes to gain access to the larger openings in the door, or you can just remove it completely from over the holes. I feel that if it was put there from the factory, there had to be a reason for it so I tried to lossen it from the bottom and pulled it upward to open the hole. That way when I was done I just laid it back down and it was pretty much back in place. On the other door of my truck, this plastic had already been removed so this wasn't an issue and it hasn't caused any problems that I've detected so I didn't worry about it. I had to get in there by hand to apply the grease in the tracks of the window mechanisms. This can be a litttle messy if you're not careful. Go slowly, use only one hand to apply grease, have plenty of disposable rags close at hand, and touch only the parts that you want grease on them so you don't end up cleaning grease off of the windows. You will have to operate the window motor up and down, with your hands out of the door, (VERY IMPORTANT!!!) watching as it moves to make sure you get enough grease in the track and anywhere else there are moving parts. As for the door lock mechanism, you should be able to lube it from these same large openings. Just make sure when you are in there to double check if anything is bent or obviously out of place and getting bound up causing any issues. I can't remember specifically what the door lock mechanism looks like, but I believe I used grease on it for lubrication as well. If it has parts that look like a little grease would be bad, I would use WD-40 instead. WD-40 doesn't always last that long so if the moving parts can be greased without causing problems, that's what I would do. Once you've greased everywhere that has touching moving parts, and before you close it all up, double check all movement one more time so you know it has been done thoroughly. Leaving a little grease packed in the window channel is good so it has plenty tucked in there for long term use.
If you happen to get grease on the window glass, I would suggest getting it cleaned up before putting the door back together. Once you've done that, and the window is operated and gets grease on the felt seals, it would become a much bigger pain to clean up. As long as you take it slow, you really shouldn't end up with any grease on the windows or anything else except where you wanted it. Using only one hand for grease keeps the other one clean for handling the door and switches. If it becomes necessary to change hands for greasing for easier acces to an area, use the rags to clean all grease from your hand and start with the other.
I hope this helps. It is definitely worth it once you've done this. The windows will operate much better, and as in my case, won't screach as they go up. Your door locks should work more freely as well. Don't forget to make sure that the electrical connections are good while you have the door apart.
It may seem like a lot of work, but it isn't so bad once you get started. I've done this to just about all of the vehicles I've owned and won't hesitate to do it again if needed.
#7
11-29-2007, 01:07 PM