So let me start this from the beginning.... 1999 Durango 5.9 4x4, started getting a intermittent misfire, and threw code P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire). So I did plugs and wires, and it ran perfect. Next day I did an oil change, started it up, and it ran like pure ****. So I did the cap and rotor. Still ran like crap. I cleared all codes and let it run a little while, and then it threw codes P0205 and P0206, injector circuit malfunction cylinder 5 and 6 respectively.

So here is what I have done so far:

While it was running, I pulled injector clips off one at a time and put a test light on the hot side to make sure it was getting power, which they all were. Then I used my multi-meter to see how much power I was getting, and while it would fluctuate, they would all stay around 10-13 volts... seemed good, all clips were getting the same amount of power. Next I checked resistance on the actual injector with everything off, and each injector got about 13.75 ohms. Also seemed good. Just to cover bases, I took valve covers off and checked for broken or fractured valve springs, and those all checked out good too. I wasn't able to push on the rockers and compress any springs by hand so I'm guessing they are good for 150k miles on the ticker. So what do I do next? Do I pull all my fuel injectors out and get them flow tested/spray pattern tested? Or should I find someone with a similar truck and try their computer out to make sure my computer isnt failing?

Some other questions:

What other computers (from what other dodge trucks) will work in my 1999 Durango 5.9? Are computers plug and play, or do they need to be programmed to my truck by a dealer? What else can I do to fix this horrible misfire?

 

idk about any other computers(except other durangos w/ same engine/tranny combo) and i think that it would need to be reflashed by the dealer

 

Test the alternator for voltage output and also load test the battery. Auto zone will do this for free while on the truck. It take's 2 min.

Fuel pump? Do a presure test. There should be about 50 lbs if I remember right.

What plugs, wires, and dist cap did you buy? (be specific)

 

PCM. Yes there are some upgrades out there that you can send your to them over night and they will send it back the next day.

http://www.bgperformancepcm.com/

Also Mopar sels a performance PCM

 

Thanks for the link Hydro... I have been looking into such an upgrade.

 

No problem dude.

They have a great upgrade but be careful because they don't guarantee that your truck will pass emissions. I haven't seen one that doesn't, but they have a discloser. In reality, they have to list it anyway to protect themselves. But like I said, "I haven't seen a problem".

 

the plugs are basic copper autolites

wires, cap and rotor are napa brand.

I'm new to dodge stuff, so where on the fuel system can I tap in and do a fuel pressure test? Does the battery and alternator NEED to be load tested, or can I just put my multi-meter on the alternator and see what its puttin out? I know they can fail, but the battery is a little over a year old.

 

Take what you can back. This is what you want for your finiky 5.9L.

Regular Champion plugs gapped .040 (these are the $1.50 regular plugs)
OEM wires or for performance MSD 8.5mm wires.
Cap and Rotor (get the upgraged Brass Contacts) Auto Zone works.
Fully clean the TB and sensors with some carb cleaner.

On the drivers side of the fuel rail is a cap covering a port that you can test the fuel pressure. The battery acually needs a load test but if you check it should read 12.7 volts. Alternator needs to be tested because you can read the volts but amprage is hard to read. Your alternator should read at least about 122 amps. but no more than 136 amps. Remember to turn everything off when testing. I find it easyer just to take it to an Auto Zone for the 3 minute check that doesn't involve anything but opening the hood for em and standing back. Not to mention it's FREE!

 

Not that I'm disagreeing with you, but its slightly unbelievable to me that an engine will run like complete horse**** with a different brand of plugs and wires. I don't think I can return them anymore, they've already been installed and have been driven with em installed a little bit. I would just go drop the additional $50 bucks to get all new stuff, but I just can't picture that being my problem. I will however go get the alternator and battery tested, and clean the TB. Do I have to remove the TB from the manifold, or can I clean it right on there and just open up the throttle plate? Maybe get in there with a soft toothbrush or somethin?

 

http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#CleanTB How to clean your TB sensor
http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#CleanIAC How to clean your IAC solenoid
http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#TPS_Mod how to set TPS voltage correctly.
Guys please follow these steps, they are free!!!! compliments of D.F.If followed correctly they should solve issues with rough Idling and throttle response time.

The issue with the plugs and wires is not one to take for granted for more info search for spark plugs in durango or 2 gen dak

I know that I burnt up my wires by laying then on the engine, thus causing miss fires in 3 out of 8 cylinders. Yeah the check engine light came on. you can feel the miss fires when the wires are on the engine. so if you just bought new wires or still have the old ones. look at the spots that are laying on the metal parts of engine. in many cases both the engine and wires will have burnt spots, thus creating your miss fires. the wires are no good after that, but the miss fires will lighten up if the wires are no linger touching the metal parts of the engine