How to turbo your neon....
#1
09-29-2008, 07:11 PM
How to turbo your neon....
Okay I have typed this maybe 15 times before to people over pms and email. Here it is for everyone to view. I did it in 20 minutes. So I know I am missing stuff, just let me know what it is. Plus I am going to get some pics for it also. Enjoy. SO no more pming me or emailing me asking "how do I turbo my neon?" Because I will just send you the link to this page.
How to turbo your neon.
First off. When you turbo your car there is a very good chance you will blow it up if you don’t know what your doing.
DOHC or SOHC: Luckily for the dohc users, the srt-4 turbo is a direct bolt on. It is called a turbo fold. Because it is the turbo and manifold in one piece. For sohc users. You will need to custom make your manifold, buy the Hahn kit, or if you lucky come across one on eBay or elsewhere.
Engine management? For the beginners you will need either a missing link or a voltage clamp. Both are inexpensive and easy to install. Missing link is plug and play, voltage clamp usually requires tuning. Its just blocks your ecu from seeing the boost. If you think your smart. Maybe you can try mega squirt.
Fuel support? Your stock injectors can handle fuel pressure to support up to 8psi of boost. Otherwise accell is a known brand name for bigger injectors. You will need a bigger fuel pump. Either a inline high pressure, or intank High pressure. Walboro 255 is widely used. While were on the fuel pump you will also need to “spool boy mod” your canister. For plastic tanks its much harder. You will also need a rrfpr (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) which raises the pressure in your fuel rail under boost. It will be after the fuel rail and regulate the return flow. You will use that stock fuel pressure gauge fitting for the return line tap from the rail. Just pull the cap off it and take the stem out. You will need a -an fitting on there. Run that to the regulator. Then run the return back to the tank and hook it up to the nipple that you are using for a return. The neon runs a static 49psi. So that will be set at your idle. You will need a wideband to properly tune the vehicle.
Plastic tank: You will need to tap into your sending unit face and canister then install fittings. One return, and one feed. The feed line will need to run directly from the fuel pump up. Bypassing the stock hoses and regulator (silver cylinder) on the top.. The return line must go into the fuel pump canister to help cool the pump and stop it from starving. Google “spool boy mod” to find more
Metal tanks: Lucky for these people there are unused fittings that you can use instead of drilling holes and putting fittings in. It’s the one with the rubber cap on it. Just remove that and hook your return line to it. On the other side you will need to remove the plastic black hose. The drill a hole in your canister and run a hose from the fitting into the canister. You will need to remove you fuel accumulator/filter from along the side of you rocker panel. You will need a inline fuel filter in its place . Run a hose from the feed nipple on the fuel canister to the filter then to the metal lines that brings it to the front. You then need to block off the return line on the pump. Use the rubber cap you pulled from the other nipple. You dont need to modifty the feed line that on the sending unit itself. WHen I say canister I mean the enclosure that holds the fuel pump. Not the face of the sending unit that is visable from the outside of the car.
What gas should I use? Higher than usual octane fuel. 90-93 octane. You need the right amount of fuel/fuel octane to not detonate (when the fuel/air mixture ignites before piston reaches tdc). Cold air and higher octane helps prevent the detonation and actual will give you a few more pony’s. You can also use colder plugs to help drop cylinder temps.
What’s my engines limits? A stock neon engine SHOULD only run 6-8 psi at most. But can run more. That’s your own risk. I learned the hard way. You can buy forged internals to handle more boost. Eagle, JE, wesieco are brands that make them. Lower compression the better for forced induction. Somewhere around 8.8:1 is ideal.
Blow off valve. You do need one of these. Otherwise your risking damage to your turbo and or engine. The blow off valve responds to vacuum pressure and boost pressure in the charge pipe. When the tb butterfly closes and all the boost is stuck in that tube it will either back spin the turbo, blow out your tb, or blow out some tubing/couplers. The blow off valve lets the pressure on the charge pipe bleed off. It sounds cool also. The say to put it within 8-10 inches of your throttle body.
Boost controller. A boost controller can only raise your boost. If you want less you will need to buy a new wastegate.
What about the oil for the turbo? You will need to either T off your sending unit for the pressure side or buy a sandwich kit. For the return line you will need to buy a fitting that you can drill and seal into your oil pan. I used a tranny drain plug kit from my local auto parts store. Make sure you use big enough fittings so you don’t restrict the oil return flow. That will cause the turbo to leak oil into your exhaust.
Turbo’s use coolant? Yes. Some do. From what I heard turbos don’t “need” it. But its easy to hook it up. Just splice off you heater core lines. Simple. Upper is the feed, lower is return. Also. After running a turbo vehicle its best to let it idle before shutting the car off. It allows all the dirty hot oil to leave the turbo. Pro-longs the life of the turbo.
Vacuum/boost gauge. You will need one. To make sure your not running to much boost. It will also help to find boost or vacuum leaks.
Intercooler? Intercooler is used to stop the air temp changes from the turbo. Its also used to help the engine receive colder air which in turn adds more power and lessens the chance of detonation.
Do not use ecu’s that advance your timing. Timing advance with a turbo is a no no.
Cheap turbo setup recipe
Chrysler t3, Mitsubishi turbo, or srt-4 turbo
Ebay intercooler kit/blow off valve or srt-4 setup.
Walboro 255 pump
Rubber fuel injection hose for feed and return lines
Ebay oil feed kit
EBay boost gauge
Missing link
Fittings from your local parts store
Here is a picture project log of my last turbo project before I left the neon scene: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3307709
I wrote this post a long time ago know. If you need more updated help feel free to email me zache17diablo2@aol.com
How to turbo your neon.
First off. When you turbo your car there is a very good chance you will blow it up if you don’t know what your doing.
DOHC or SOHC: Luckily for the dohc users, the srt-4 turbo is a direct bolt on. It is called a turbo fold. Because it is the turbo and manifold in one piece. For sohc users. You will need to custom make your manifold, buy the Hahn kit, or if you lucky come across one on eBay or elsewhere.
Engine management? For the beginners you will need either a missing link or a voltage clamp. Both are inexpensive and easy to install. Missing link is plug and play, voltage clamp usually requires tuning. Its just blocks your ecu from seeing the boost. If you think your smart. Maybe you can try mega squirt.
Fuel support? Your stock injectors can handle fuel pressure to support up to 8psi of boost. Otherwise accell is a known brand name for bigger injectors. You will need a bigger fuel pump. Either a inline high pressure, or intank High pressure. Walboro 255 is widely used. While were on the fuel pump you will also need to “spool boy mod” your canister. For plastic tanks its much harder. You will also need a rrfpr (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) which raises the pressure in your fuel rail under boost. It will be after the fuel rail and regulate the return flow. You will use that stock fuel pressure gauge fitting for the return line tap from the rail. Just pull the cap off it and take the stem out. You will need a -an fitting on there. Run that to the regulator. Then run the return back to the tank and hook it up to the nipple that you are using for a return. The neon runs a static 49psi. So that will be set at your idle. You will need a wideband to properly tune the vehicle.
Plastic tank: You will need to tap into your sending unit face and canister then install fittings. One return, and one feed. The feed line will need to run directly from the fuel pump up. Bypassing the stock hoses and regulator (silver cylinder) on the top.. The return line must go into the fuel pump canister to help cool the pump and stop it from starving. Google “spool boy mod” to find more
Metal tanks: Lucky for these people there are unused fittings that you can use instead of drilling holes and putting fittings in. It’s the one with the rubber cap on it. Just remove that and hook your return line to it. On the other side you will need to remove the plastic black hose. The drill a hole in your canister and run a hose from the fitting into the canister. You will need to remove you fuel accumulator/filter from along the side of you rocker panel. You will need a inline fuel filter in its place . Run a hose from the feed nipple on the fuel canister to the filter then to the metal lines that brings it to the front. You then need to block off the return line on the pump. Use the rubber cap you pulled from the other nipple. You dont need to modifty the feed line that on the sending unit itself. WHen I say canister I mean the enclosure that holds the fuel pump. Not the face of the sending unit that is visable from the outside of the car.
What gas should I use? Higher than usual octane fuel. 90-93 octane. You need the right amount of fuel/fuel octane to not detonate (when the fuel/air mixture ignites before piston reaches tdc). Cold air and higher octane helps prevent the detonation and actual will give you a few more pony’s. You can also use colder plugs to help drop cylinder temps.
What’s my engines limits? A stock neon engine SHOULD only run 6-8 psi at most. But can run more. That’s your own risk. I learned the hard way. You can buy forged internals to handle more boost. Eagle, JE, wesieco are brands that make them. Lower compression the better for forced induction. Somewhere around 8.8:1 is ideal.
Blow off valve. You do need one of these. Otherwise your risking damage to your turbo and or engine. The blow off valve responds to vacuum pressure and boost pressure in the charge pipe. When the tb butterfly closes and all the boost is stuck in that tube it will either back spin the turbo, blow out your tb, or blow out some tubing/couplers. The blow off valve lets the pressure on the charge pipe bleed off. It sounds cool also. The say to put it within 8-10 inches of your throttle body.
Boost controller. A boost controller can only raise your boost. If you want less you will need to buy a new wastegate.
What about the oil for the turbo? You will need to either T off your sending unit for the pressure side or buy a sandwich kit. For the return line you will need to buy a fitting that you can drill and seal into your oil pan. I used a tranny drain plug kit from my local auto parts store. Make sure you use big enough fittings so you don’t restrict the oil return flow. That will cause the turbo to leak oil into your exhaust.
Turbo’s use coolant? Yes. Some do. From what I heard turbos don’t “need” it. But its easy to hook it up. Just splice off you heater core lines. Simple. Upper is the feed, lower is return. Also. After running a turbo vehicle its best to let it idle before shutting the car off. It allows all the dirty hot oil to leave the turbo. Pro-longs the life of the turbo.
Vacuum/boost gauge. You will need one. To make sure your not running to much boost. It will also help to find boost or vacuum leaks.
Intercooler? Intercooler is used to stop the air temp changes from the turbo. Its also used to help the engine receive colder air which in turn adds more power and lessens the chance of detonation.
Do not use ecu’s that advance your timing. Timing advance with a turbo is a no no.
Cheap turbo setup recipe
Chrysler t3, Mitsubishi turbo, or srt-4 turbo
Ebay intercooler kit/blow off valve or srt-4 setup.
Walboro 255 pump
Rubber fuel injection hose for feed and return lines
Ebay oil feed kit
EBay boost gauge
Missing link
Fittings from your local parts store
Here is a picture project log of my last turbo project before I left the neon scene: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3307709
I wrote this post a long time ago know. If you need more updated help feel free to email me zache17diablo2@aol.com
Last edited by I_Ride_Neon; 04-20-2013 at 10:45 PM.
#2
09-30-2008, 06:39 AM
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#3
09-30-2008, 11:07 AM
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you DO need a bov either atmosphericly or recurculating. if you do not use one, when you are out of WOT (wide open throttle) the air from the turbo pushing through charge pipes will have nowhere to go and will backspin the turbo causing failure, blow the charge pipe off, snap your butterfly in the throttle body, or other numerous bad things.
spoolboy mod is not needed, you just need some sort of return line.
spoolboy mod is not needed, you just need some sort of return line.
#4
09-30-2008, 03:26 PM
you DO need a bov either atmosphericly or recurculating. if you do not use one, when you are out of WOT (wide open throttle) the air from the turbo pushing through charge pipes will have nowhere to go and will backspin the turbo causing failure, blow the charge pipe off, snap your butterfly in the throttle body, or other numerous bad things.
spoolboy mod is not needed, you just need some sort of return line.
spoolboy mod is not needed, you just need some sort of return line.
#5
09-30-2008, 06:07 PM
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you DO need a bov either atmosphericly or recurculating. if you do not use one, when you are out of WOT (wide open throttle) the air from the turbo pushing through charge pipes will have nowhere to go and will backspin the turbo causing failure, blow the charge pipe off, snap your butterfly in the throttle body, or other numerous bad things.
#6
09-30-2008, 07:12 PM
Veteran
bs! you will backspin the turbo. period.
if that was the case, dont you think that the srt4 would not have one or the talon, or sti, or any boosted car stock from the factory. you think that the engineers just wanted a cool sound effect? all turbo systems have a way to let the pressurized air inside the system to escape.
this is not debatable.
if that was the case, dont you think that the srt4 would not have one or the talon, or sti, or any boosted car stock from the factory. you think that the engineers just wanted a cool sound effect? all turbo systems have a way to let the pressurized air inside the system to escape.
this is not debatable.
#7
10-01-2008, 03:52 AM
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#8
10-01-2008, 05:26 AM
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My point is that its very posible to run a low boost and still have no problems with compressor surge without a BOV. Will it help performance sure, but its not a absolutly necessary component. Just like an intercooler its not absolutly necessary. but i guess youll need a IC too since a SRT4 came with one.
Last edited by 12 volt; 10-01-2008 at 05:43 AM.
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10-01-2008, 07:26 AM
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#10
10-01-2008, 11:15 AM
Legend
when most people hear the words "blow off valve" they think of a typical noise making atmospherical blow off valve....not the stock recirculating blow off valve....but either way it is safer to always use 1....why take the risk???
you dont need to use the spoolboy mod or bypass the stock fuel pressure regulator....as long as you run an inline fuel pump after the regulator, you will be able to run as much fuel pressure as you want to...the stock pump only pushes out about 48psi, but the inline pump pulls out whatever is needed additionally
i ran 18 pounds of boost on my setup without any problems.....this was how it was ran..
walboro 255lph intake fuel pump....stock regulator.....inline walboro 255lph fuel pump....begi fuel pressure regulator...fuel rail...return line....back to intake fuel pump canister
you dont need to use the spoolboy mod or bypass the stock fuel pressure regulator....as long as you run an inline fuel pump after the regulator, you will be able to run as much fuel pressure as you want to...the stock pump only pushes out about 48psi, but the inline pump pulls out whatever is needed additionally
i ran 18 pounds of boost on my setup without any problems.....this was how it was ran..
walboro 255lph intake fuel pump....stock regulator.....inline walboro 255lph fuel pump....begi fuel pressure regulator...fuel rail...return line....back to intake fuel pump canister