On a recent trip, the passenger window in my 2001 durango R/T would go down, but it wouldn't go back up.

I took the door panel apart, and unplugged the window motor from the harness. Then I jumped 12V into the window motor, and it goes up and down fine. This implies that the motor and the tracks are fine.

My conclusion is that there is something wrong with the switches or the control module for the window (if there is a control module). Since the windows goes down fine, the wiring is probably ok as well.

I tried beating on the doors around the switches, and turning on and off the window lock button. Both switches (driver and passenger) will make the passenger window go down, but neither will make it go up.

I noticed that there are 5 terminals on the passenger side window up/down switch. I was unable to come up with a reason for there to be 5 terminals after thinking about it for a while.

Questions:

1) Does anyone reading this know how this window circuit works? Is there a control module (with an H-Bridge), or is everything just handled in the switches?

2) If everything is handled by the switches, how can I test the switches?

2) Any theories as to what is wrong?

Greg Garner

 

Try cleaning the contacts on the MAIN Switch on the drivers door also wouldnt hurt to clean the PS also.

 

Well usually your symptom indicate a window motor going bad. Not really "bad" but the brushes are worn causing it not to have the power it once did. About 2-3 hours (cause you never done it before) you can fix it for $5 if that is the issue. I personally say it is. I am not positive but I don't think a full 12v goes to the window motor, when you hooked it up to the battery it gave it more juice.

Anyways here is a wiring diagram.

 

This is just what I needed, thanks so much! I should be able to track down the problem with all this info. You guys are the best, thanks for taking time to answer my question.

Greg Garner

 

Greg,

With your quote above, I would say the window motor is fine. My bet is on an electrical gremlin. On rare occasion, my passenger side window doesn't respond to either side's window control. Just a fluke. I shut down, fiddle here and faddle there and everything is back and working fine. Dunno. In 8 years, I would say it has occurred 4 times or so.

IndyDurango

 

I found alot of times that all the power issues resides mainly on the driver's master switch console. Most of the time, reseating the power harness back to the master switch console fixes the intermittent power issues to th windows. Would not hurt to put some electrical grease on the head of the power harness to protect the contacts from external contaminants.

 

+1 Kensai. Good idea.

Greg, here is a replacement switch for the pass side. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-DO...ht_3179wt_1256

If you need the whole setup on the drivers side, I have one out in the garage I would part with. Just let me know.

IndyDurango

 

The reason why I am leaning towards the drivers master console is because the passenger windows will not roll up even when using the driver's master console. A bad common wire would be the last thing on my mind that would have caused this. If the passenger/driver doors were recently worked on (speaker installation, etc), then I would check to make sure a wire was not crimped somewhere. Being with the dodge forums for many years, I have seen alot of users posting questions concerning power to their windows and most resolutions was the reseating of the main power harness to the master switch console on the drivers side. Heck, it would not hurt to reseat all the other power connectors on the driver's door as well since you have to unplug the power harnesses to other stuff like power locks and your power side mirrors when removing the trim.

 

It could be a blown diode in one of the switches. I can tell you that if you jumped power directly to the motor and it worked then that is definitely not your issue.

 

Gremlin??????

Who let the bastards in!!!!.....


Second, you fiddle and faddle with em..... Now thats just sick......LOL....



Really, I think the problem is in the master swich on the drivers side.