Ok update time!
Here's how I'm going to do this: what I originally posted is below the line in this post. The first picture before that will always be a current picture and I'll list the date I updated the thread, scroll further down (or to a later page) to find the full update post. I'm also going to move my mod list up to the top here and keep it updated.
Current (7/3/09):
Update post is at the bottom of this page.
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MOD LIST
Performance:
- K&N 57 series FIPK
- Factory muffler and resonator delete
- Cherry Bomb Vortex muffler
- Amsoil full synthetic in:
- Engine
- Transmission
- Transfer case
- Front Differential
- Rear Differential
- Autolite 3923 spark plugs
Exterior:
- Factory door spear delete
- Debadged (except for grill emblem)
- Paint-matched front and rear bumpers
- Paint-matched V-tech taillight covers
- Rhino lining over the rails
- AMI 15" black stubby antenna
- 265/75 R16 All Country Radial LXT's
- Smoked license plate covers
- Dodgeforum.com decal on driver's rear window (passenger side window was replaced after rollover, I need to get more DF decals)
- DIY painted rear differential cover
- DIY painted matte black exhaust tip (FYI if you're thinking of doing this the 500 degree paint doesn't seem to last, I need to find something else)
- DIY painted Metalcast Smoke grill
- EGR slim in-channel window visors
- Mopar hitch cover
Interior:
- REN MyGig 20GB in-dash touch-screen multimedia head unit
- White LED overhead lighting
- Factory rear seats delete
- Polk db650 coaxials all around
- Python 990 two-way security/remote start with SST and LCD remote
- Nifty Catch-All Xtreme front floor mats
Waiting for install:
- Derale adjustable fan controller
- 2x 14" Procomp electric fans (plan is to sell these and get a larger fan, possibly the taurus fan)
- PIAA driving lights (will go behind the grill)
- JET 180 degree thermostat
Planned:
- 35% tint on the front windows and windshield strip, 20% rear
- DIY headlight HID retrofit (TL projectors)
- Detroit True-Trac
- 4.10 gearing
- Superchips 3865
- Some bass
(want to keep it removable 
)
Nominated for TOTM November 2008 (User2006 took home a well deserved win)
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ORIGINAL POST
First things first here's some quick now and then pictures. Keep scrolling down to read the Dak's story so far, you'll find my mods list at the bottom
BEFORE:
NOW:
I'm the second owner of my Dak, my grandfather bought it new off the lot as a leftover in 2006. At the time he was looking to downsize from his 96 Ram as he didn't think he needed the size and figured he could save a little on gas. He was looking for a V6 but luckily they gave him a better deal on the 4.7L V8. The truck is an SLT package 4x4 with the factory tow package. Winter of 2006 he decided he wanted a full-size and something a bit more luxurious, I was looking for a pickup at the time and he offered me a deal on it I couldn't pass up. Had right around 9,000 miles on it when I got her still pretty much stock other than a tonneau cover:
My first mod was replacing the factory speakers with something decent to tide me over till I can do a full-out stereo install (which is still off in the future right now). Picked up some Polk db650's on sale for 1/2 off and installed them in the stock locations running off the factory head unit:
Next order of business was fixing the factory rake. Ordered a Trailmaster 2" front leveling kit to bring the front up level with the back. I originally planned to install it myself, took the front suspension apart and pulled out the struts when I ran into my first issue. The strut compressors I rented from Napa could not fit onto the spring to safely compress it. Called up a local shop with a wall mounted spring compressor and brought the struts down when problem #2 decided to rear it's head. The nut holding the strut together on one side was cross-threaded from the factory and getting it off without snapping the stud wasn't going to be possible. So I called up the dealer and had them do the install, they of course snapped the stud which was then covered under warranty and my other strut was found to be blown and also warrantied. In the end I only had to pay labor on the extra work to actually install the spacers in the struts and warranty covered the rest
. After that was finished and getting the necessary alignment she sat a lot better:
By now I'd had enough of the nearly inaudible factory exhaust, picked up a Hooker Headers stainless dual tip on ebay (beware the one I bought turned out not to be stainless but it was only $30 shipped so I won't complain too much). Went down to a local guy I'd used on past vehicles and had him remove the factory muffler and both resonators and run new 2 1/2" piping back from the factory 'Y' through a Cherry Bomb Vortex muffler and out the passenger side in front of the rear wheel with the dual tip. I don't have any driving videos but I do have one of it at idle (taken with my cellphone so it doesn't really do it justice):
Winter 2007 disaster struck. I was driving up to Lincoln, Maine with a few of my friends to visit a friend up there, about halfway up the weather started getting pretty bad, snow/sleet/icy rain mixture just nasty stuff. The highway stayed pretty good, once we got off the highway about 6 miles away from Lincoln the road seemed surprisingly decent considering the weather. Even so I made sure to keep it under 30.
We got within 2 miles or so and saw a Jeep Wrangler rolled over on the side of the road with a few cop cars there. We weren't even over the hill from it yet when the back end of the truck started coming around I tried to keep it in control but it just wasn't going to happen. Spun completely around and hit the snowbank on the left side of the road the truck flipped over, bounced on the roof, flipped again and cratered into the snowbank facing the opposite way we were when it started.
Luckily nobody was seriously hurt, needless to say I figured the truck was totalled. I never thought it was possible to roll it going 25, needless to say I know it's possible now. The tow truck driver took one look at it and said it was at least $14,000 in damage, when the insurance sent an adjuster out to look at it they got a quote from somewhere of $9,000 and decided to fix it. Maine law allows us to choose the shop that works on the vehicle so we had it towed back to a local shop that's known for doing very good work and had the necessary equipment to check the frame. I also put in some extra to get front and rear paintable bumpers and some V-tech taillight covers and had the shop paint them with the truck. Amazingly there was no mechanical damage, all body damage. Even so it ended up coming out to nearly $16,000, I'm betting the insurance wished they had totalled it by the time it was done. I also had them leave the black door trim and 4x4 stickers off and debadged the tailgate. Shortly after getting it back I swapped on some 265/75 R16 All Country Radial LXT's that were almost brand new from a truck my dad was getting rid of.
Summer 2008 I scored a REN MyGig head unit for $100 on ebay, installed it using a MyGig Lockpick Adapter from Coastal Electronics Technology. Actually a pretty easy swap if you have the right unit and the adapter the longest part was cutting the dash bezel to fit the MyGig. I noticed an immediate difference in sound quality from the standard CD head unit to this one, the MyGig is a much higher quality unit and actually drives my Polk's to their potential. Future plans involve the output from the MyGig through a JL clean sweep or Alpine Imprint unit, some amps and probably Alpine Type R components and a Type X sub or two. The MyGig has a few quirks but overall I absolutely love it, I've even watched DVD's on it during traffic jams on I-90 before.
I also changed my rear differential fluid to Amsoil full synthetic fluid. While I was at it I sanded down and painted the rear differential cover with some 500 degree engine enamel I found which was extremely close to matching the truck in color.
Most recently I installed a K&N 57 series FIPK, definitely noticed a difference in throttle response. A Fastman throttle body and a Magnaflow Y-pipe will likely be my next performance mods along with a Superchips tuner. Down the road I'm planning on a 4.10 gear swap and rear LSD, possibly a Detroit True-Trac.
For now I'll leave you with a picture of the Dakota's immense payload capabilities
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