Truck has @ 148k miles on it.

About a month ago I had a coolant leak, however once it warmed up a bit it just went away. Anyway, on saturday it came back full force. It turns out it's not the waterpump, but the timing chain cover gasket.
I already have the AC, Alt, and waterpump removed. When I called down to Shucks (auto parts store), they said that I would also need a oil pan gasket.

My main concern with continuing this job is that the manual says that I need a couple special tools. Tool# 3688 part of which looks like a pretty standard pulley puller, however the other part of it is a seal press to reinstall the viberation damper. Apparantly I will also need tool# 6635 to align the
front cover and seal with the crankshaft when I reinstall the timing case cover.

Where would I get these special tools from, can I just rent them from my local auto parts store? Or are there just some standard tools that you have substituted for these?

My other concern is from reading around on here, I will need to loosen the engine mounts to remove the front of the oil pan? Is this really the case?
I already have it down this far, so I'd really prefer not to put it all back together and take it down to a shop. Especially since it will probably not be too cheap.

Thanks for any help...

 

Here's a good write up on replacing the timing chain. Use the parts you need, ignore the rest. http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/timingchain.php

 

Thanks for the quick response. I think that write up is just the info I needed. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

don't worry, this is easy.

you will need a harmonic balance puller, but you can rent that at autozone or advance, or buy it for only about $20. do NOT pull on the outside of the balancer - only pull on the inside. also ** protect your crankshaft threads, do not eat them up with the center bolt of the puller **

you will need to do something special to get the big bolt off the end of the crankshaft. either an air gun, elec impact, or screwdriver through balancer (be very careful what you pry against, don't break an aluminum piece.

remove the timing cover seal by knocking it out from the back w/ a punch or screwdriver. reinstall by tapping it in with a hammer and block of wood. no special tool needed.

if your careful when removing the timing cover, you can do so w/o damage to your oil pan gasket. if you do decide to remove your oil pan, you don't have to lift the engine but you do have to remove the flex plate (flywheel) dust cover and starter, which is a hassle, because the starter is tighter than a mother. i swear this thing was put on by the Incredible Hulk.

while timing cover is off, take a look a the chain. you'll probably want to replace it. its only about $50.

pics..
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ater-pump.html

 

I have an impact wrench and socket to remove the harmonic balancer nut, however my torque wrench only goes to 80 ft/lbs. If this nut is on at 135, do I just use the impact driver when I go to put it back on, or do I need to get a larger torque wrench?

 

Larger torque wrench. "Torqued" does not mean "tight" ... it means tightened to the correct torque.

Do you have access to a Harbor Freight?

 

When should they be changed out?

 

When I try to loosen the crank bolt holding the harmonic balancer on, it just turns the whole crank. Will it hurt anything if I put the truck in gear keep the engine from turning over?
I have a compressor, but it only goes to 80psi. I went out and bought a cheap impact wrench, but it doesn't want to do the trick. I don't think I have enough pressure. Should 80psi typicaly be enough?
I tried bracing a screwdriver thru one of the balancer holes, but it just wants to wedge in there behind it, and I'm worried that I will bend the balancer.
I have some flat metal bar at work so maybe I'll drill a couple holes in a long piece, and bolt it to the balancer to leverage against.

 

Is it a stick? No ... it won't hurt ... 4th gear, please, brake on.

 

does your impact wrench hammer against the bolt ? if so that's good. but if the engine is turning - then you'll need to block the engine from turning and then let the hammer action work for awhile. it should bang it loose. 80psi is a little light, but give it a try. if that doesn't work, then if you can get the engine blocked, you can resort to a long pull bar. 135 is not that much, but everything is useless if the engine turns.

leave the spark plugs in for added compression. if its a manual trans, put it in gear. otherwise fab up bar that you can bolt to the balancer. the traditional way of stopping the engine from turning is to use the flywheel or flex plate, but to get to the dodge flex plate you have to remove the starter which is another whole adventure.