Engine suddenly shut off. Will turn over but not start. Sprayed starter fluid into throttle body but did not even cause a sputter. Think something is wrong with ignition. Guys at Advance Auto parts say to replace Crankshaft Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor. Any ideas?

 

My sensor went out slowly. The car had a bad "miss" from time to time. I tried many things to cure the problem. It shut off twice. One time it took a while to get it to start. I used a volt meter to check the Crank Sensor. Hayne's manual 25025 page 6-13. The voltage was half what it should be. I changed my sensor and have had no more problems.

 

Yes a crank (also CAM) sensor can cause this. Also look at the MAP sensor (they stick).

I had the crank sensor go bad a while ago and had NO engine light. I did have a code 11 with the key trick though. Replaced it and started right up.

I had a CAM sensor fail in the past (twice) and both times I had an engine light with the correct code.

When my MAP died (three of those) I never got a light (they stick internaly at an incorrect value). These are easy to figure out though. Just unplug the electrical connector and the computer will supply a default middle-of the-road value (called limp in mode). The engine will not preform great (with a heavy foot etc), but it can get you home.

 

my wifes car wouldnt start ehen it was -36 (96 3.3 intrepid) put new plugs in got it started but would die coming to a stop, I disconnected tha batt turned the key 3 times hooked batt back up and tried it I heard a pop now car wont start just cranks anyone have an answer.

 

96 3.3 intrepid How do you bring codes up using the key, and where are they located on the dash.

 

This should have been under a new heading. Here are the instructions and a list of the codes.
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

 

Hello, I'm Mark Hall, and I have a Chrysler Concorde 93 (close enough to 1st gen intrepid :-). Car has an intermittent problem - will shut off when driving. All guages go dead (lights stay on!). 2 times this happened and I was able to restart while in motion (kinda scary on interstate). Seems to die when slightly letting off of accelerator. On 3 occasions came back to car after parking for 30 minutes, and would not start even though battery was strong and cranked vigorously. Eventually fired up just fine (5 minutes of intermittent cranking). Not a flooding problem (no smell and very little throttle applied during cranking). Last night ran very sluggishly, seemed like only 2 cylinders were firing. But when I *reduced* the throttle, it would perk up again, then bog when I added more throttle. Seems sensitive to wet weather (and I live in Seattle, so that's a lot). Engine codes were 12, 21, 11, in that order. The above list list of codes is very helpful, but where should i start? Any instructions to replace sensors? Thanks!

 

Ignore the 12. Change the crank sensor. Before you clear the codes (take to autozone or such and use their OBD tool for free to reset/read), use the tool to determine which O2 sensor is flagging as bad (there are 4 on the 3.5 engine). Then ensure the 11 is gone (via key trick...note, the 11 will not cause an engine light nor can it be read by an OBD tool) if not post back (either wire intermitant, PCM, or timing belt issue). For the O2, try running a cleaner first. If still bad change the indicated O2 sensor.

NOTE...If you are going to disconnect the battery when changing the CRANK sensor (should), read the code FIRST with the OBD scan tool, otherwise after the battery has been disconnected for more then 10 min, the codes will clear out of memory.

 

It could be fuel pump, fuel filter or out of fuel. To be certain, you can always use a code scanner to see if there are any stored codes.
_____________________________________________
Tips: Always check the Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit

 

Hey, I'm new and know nothing about cars at all. I have a 1996 Intrepid that died on the highway. My dad had to come rescue me, towed it to his house, and used a diagnostic tool to discover that the cam position sensor was bad. He replaced that but now he is getting an error that says "cam shaft position sensor circuit malfunction". He said he has tried everything he can think of and even left the battery unplugged overnight to see if it would reset. He's getting no spark (not sure what that means, but I am a recently single mom with no clue and no money to take this to a mechanic). Anyone have any ideas or advice? I would appreciate it.