Bad vibrations
#1
09-02-2009, 09:27 PM
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Bad vibrations
My husband and I have a 2004 Dodge Neon SXT that is driving me dodgy!
Its our only vehicle and he is a full time student and works full time so, money is tight.
We had some vibration in the vehicle and discovered the motor mounts were broken, so we bought the top one and replaced it. Shortly there after the vibration has become worse. He bought the lower one when we had the money and replaced it.
Now the vibration is the same as it was before he replaced the lower one and it seems to be getting worse. He can't find the problem, and we don't have the money to put it in the shop.
What do we do, and is it safe to drive? My mother is in hospice and I have to drive 2 1/2 hours there back to see her.
My husband can do the work, but is at a loss as to what the problem is.
Please help I am going DODGY!
dodgylisa
Its our only vehicle and he is a full time student and works full time so, money is tight.
We had some vibration in the vehicle and discovered the motor mounts were broken, so we bought the top one and replaced it. Shortly there after the vibration has become worse. He bought the lower one when we had the money and replaced it.
Now the vibration is the same as it was before he replaced the lower one and it seems to be getting worse. He can't find the problem, and we don't have the money to put it in the shop.
What do we do, and is it safe to drive? My mother is in hospice and I have to drive 2 1/2 hours there back to see her.
My husband can do the work, but is at a loss as to what the problem is.
Please help I am going DODGY!
dodgylisa
#2
09-03-2009, 01:07 AM
#4
09-03-2009, 12:47 PM
After re-reading it when not in a hurry to get the car done, I can very easily see I did it incorrectly, lol. 
I also added a note in red in the last figure to help clarify it a bit. I understand the full-time student and work situation as well (can't wait to be done with school), so I hope this helps!
ENGINE TORQUE STRUT ADJUSTMENT
The upper and lower torque struts need to be adjusted together to assure proper engine positioning and engine mount loading. Whenever a torque strut bolt(s) is loosened, this procedure must be performed. [As you can see, any time even one of the bolts is loosened, let alone mount replaced, this procedure needs to be done.]
(1) Remove accessory drive belt splash shield (Fig. 93).
(2) Remove pencil strut (Fig. 94).
(3) Loosen the upper and lower torque strut attaching bolt at the suspension crossmember and shock tower bracket (Fig. 92).
(4) The engine position may now be adjusted by positioning a suitable floor jack on the forward edge of the transmission bell housing (Fig. 95). NOTE: The floor jack must be positioned as shown in (Fig. 95) to prevent minimal upward lifting of the engine.
(5) With the engine supported, remove the upper and lower torque strut attachment bolt(s) at shock tower bracket and suspension crossmember (Fig. 92). Verify that the torque struts are free to move within the shock tower bracket and crossmember. Reinstall the torque strut bolt(s), but do not tighten.
(6) Carefully apply upward force, allowing the upper engine to rotate rearward until the distance between the center of the rearmost attaching bolt on the engine mount bracket (point “A”) and the center of the hole on the shock tower bracket (point “B”) is 119 mm (4.70 in.) (Fig. 96).
CAUTION: The engine must be held in position with jack until both the upper and lower torque strut bolts are tightened.
(7) With the engine held at the proper position, tighten both the upper and lower torque strut bolts to 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 92).
(8) Remove the floor jack.
(9) Install pencil strut and tighten nuts to 58 N·m (43 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 94).
(10) Install accessory drive belt splash shield (Fig. 93).
I also added a note in red in the last figure to help clarify it a bit. I understand the full-time student and work situation as well (can't wait to be done with school), so I hope this helps!ENGINE TORQUE STRUT ADJUSTMENT
The upper and lower torque struts need to be adjusted together to assure proper engine positioning and engine mount loading. Whenever a torque strut bolt(s) is loosened, this procedure must be performed. [As you can see, any time even one of the bolts is loosened, let alone mount replaced, this procedure needs to be done.]
(1) Remove accessory drive belt splash shield (Fig. 93).
(2) Remove pencil strut (Fig. 94).
(3) Loosen the upper and lower torque strut attaching bolt at the suspension crossmember and shock tower bracket (Fig. 92).
(4) The engine position may now be adjusted by positioning a suitable floor jack on the forward edge of the transmission bell housing (Fig. 95). NOTE: The floor jack must be positioned as shown in (Fig. 95) to prevent minimal upward lifting of the engine.
(5) With the engine supported, remove the upper and lower torque strut attachment bolt(s) at shock tower bracket and suspension crossmember (Fig. 92). Verify that the torque struts are free to move within the shock tower bracket and crossmember. Reinstall the torque strut bolt(s), but do not tighten.
(6) Carefully apply upward force, allowing the upper engine to rotate rearward until the distance between the center of the rearmost attaching bolt on the engine mount bracket (point “A”) and the center of the hole on the shock tower bracket (point “B”) is 119 mm (4.70 in.) (Fig. 96).
CAUTION: The engine must be held in position with jack until both the upper and lower torque strut bolts are tightened.
(7) With the engine held at the proper position, tighten both the upper and lower torque strut bolts to 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 92).
(8) Remove the floor jack.
(9) Install pencil strut and tighten nuts to 58 N·m (43 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 94).
(10) Install accessory drive belt splash shield (Fig. 93).
Last edited by darthroush; 09-03-2009 at 12:50 PM.
#5
09-03-2009, 09:19 PM
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He crawled under there.. Again, lol and followed the directions. He said it was 5 1/2 inches between the bolts when it was supposed to be 4.7 inches. He Jacked it up and the mounts, and the bolts would not fit with the front of the motor that high. The vibrations are a little different but still there...
Now what?
ARRRGGHH!
Lisa
Now what?
ARRRGGHH!
Lisa
#7
09-03-2009, 09:32 PM
I'm not sure on that one. As I said, I still haven't done it correctly (Ooops!). I think that's why the bolts need to be removed (to free up the mounts), and then reinstalled but not tightened until the measurement is made. If the bolts are in there, I'd think it would work... Oh, tell him to use MM. More accurate than rounding up. 
I will probably be attempting this tomorrow, Saturday night at the latest, so I will see what happens when I give it a go.
I will probably be attempting this tomorrow, Saturday night at the latest, so I will see what happens when I give it a go.
Last edited by darthroush; 09-03-2009 at 09:36 PM.
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