Timing Chain Replacement
#1
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#5
Its a very simple job if you know mechanics. (obviously) The plenum is easy to change as well. Dont buy another gasket for plenum or you'll be changing it again, go to http://hughesengines.com and search for the plenum re-enforcment kit. you wont have to worry about the plenum again.
Timing chain all depends. my truck has 195K when i did the water pump and checked the chain it was tight, and no wear. (PO was a mechanic and i think he changed it) So check it out at least, and with that many miles its probably the stock, you should upgrade to a double roller chain.
Timing chain all depends. my truck has 195K when i did the water pump and checked the chain it was tight, and no wear. (PO was a mechanic and i think he changed it) So check it out at least, and with that many miles its probably the stock, you should upgrade to a double roller chain.
#6
You don't have to change it...hell you don't even have do the plenum if you don't mind adding oil and all the other issues.
Theres a quick way to determine if you should. Crawl under the truck, grasp the crank pulley/balancer with both hands and try to rotate it. If you feel a "clunk" or play (thats the chain slack against the valvetrain) and you can rotate more that an 1/8 inch to get that, you should replace it. As stated it can only get worse.
Worse meaning it will throw off your PCM because your cam sensor and crank sensor are not in sync, among other timing issues. At worst, it could break or come off when all the nylon teeth on the cam gear disintegrate. The carnage at that moment can vary, but running a valve into a piston isn't much good on either component.
So why not check it, change it, and replace a couple of potential high mileage leaks as well. Just sayin...
Theres a quick way to determine if you should. Crawl under the truck, grasp the crank pulley/balancer with both hands and try to rotate it. If you feel a "clunk" or play (thats the chain slack against the valvetrain) and you can rotate more that an 1/8 inch to get that, you should replace it. As stated it can only get worse.
Worse meaning it will throw off your PCM because your cam sensor and crank sensor are not in sync, among other timing issues. At worst, it could break or come off when all the nylon teeth on the cam gear disintegrate. The carnage at that moment can vary, but running a valve into a piston isn't much good on either component.
So why not check it, change it, and replace a couple of potential high mileage leaks as well. Just sayin...
Last edited by dsertdog56; 11-20-2009 at 10:27 AM.
#7
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#8
Its a very simple job if you know mechanics. (obviously) The plenum is easy to change as well. Dont buy another gasket for plenum or you'll be changing it again, go to http://hughesengines.com and search for the plenum re-enforcment kit. you wont have to worry about the plenum again.
Timing chain all depends. my truck has 195K when i did the water pump and checked the chain it was tight, and no wear. (PO was a mechanic and i think he changed it) So check it out at least, and with that many miles its probably the stock, you should upgrade to a double roller chain.
Timing chain all depends. my truck has 195K when i did the water pump and checked the chain it was tight, and no wear. (PO was a mechanic and i think he changed it) So check it out at least, and with that many miles its probably the stock, you should upgrade to a double roller chain.
I know when I do the plenum kit, I am definatly changing the timing chain. May also do the water pump and camshaft.
#9
#10
How hard is a timing chain to replace? If I do it, I will go to a dual roller chain, but doesnt that make it thicker? Is there enough clearance with the stock timing cover?
Big question: can I mess it up pretty bad if I have never done a timing chain before? I am pretty mechanical...just never a timing chain...
Thanks
Big question: can I mess it up pretty bad if I have never done a timing chain before? I am pretty mechanical...just never a timing chain...
Thanks