Today I did the pedal swap. It was straight forward and easy, but rather time consuming (maybe just cause I took so many pictures though :P)
I started by taking apart the dash until I completely unblocked the pedals. It may not have been neccessary, but it sure gave me more room to work.
Next, I removed the old brake pedal. All you have to do is unclip it from the brake master cylinder and pull the top bolt out that it pivots on.
Old brake pedal next to new brake pedal...
Next, I located the hole that the clutch master cylinder needs to go through. This hole already exists, there is a large rubber grommet filling it in. (I had used that grommet to run the power wire for my amplifier as you can see in the picture, I guess now I'll need to come up with another way to route the wire.)
After unplugging the hole, I took the front left tire off and pulled back the splash shield to access the hole from the other side.
Next, I mounted the clutch master cylinder mount plate on the side of the pedal mount, again the holes already existed, it was just a matter of bolting it on. Then I slid the master cylinder into place from the outside, and then gave it a quarter turn to secure it in the mount.
Once secured, I pushed the rubber grommet on the master cylinder into place.
Next, I hooked up the reservior to the master cylinder. I have yet to secure it to the firewall, but it is in place. I plan on using a couple self tapping screw to secure it down.
(As you can see above, I took the hydraulic lines off the master cylinder to make installation easier... DONT DO THIS!!! The hydraulics are not designed to be serviceable and bleeding it was a PITA)
Finally, I hung the pedals and connected them to the 2 master cylinders. The wire harness is also there to plug in the safety switch that only lets you crank the engine with the clutch pedal is depressed (Its the green harness 4 pictures up in the upper left corner or you can kind of see part of it in the picture below on the far left side). I tested it after installing the pedals and it works.
Since this write up I have found out that that the reason the cruise control didn't work after the swap was because I grounded the P/N switch so the engine could start (this is discussed later in the thread). Since the P/N switch was grounded, the computer thought the truck was always in park or neutral, so it wouldn't activate the cruise control!! So what I did to fix this is I plugged the clutch saftey harness back into the bypass it was originally plugged into, and I rerouted the P/N switch wire to to the clutch pedal's safety switch that is now unplugged. I ran the wire into one pin on the harness and grounded the other pin. This now tells the computer the truck is in park/neutral when the clutch is depressed, and when it is no longer depressed, the computer thinks its in gear! Also, to plug it into the harness, I found another harness from a donor truck and spliced the wires into it. Here are some pics:
Tommorrow I'll tackle the transmission swap and then its just a matter of hooking up the hydraulic lines, bleeding the clutch, and putting the truck back together.