mystery clicking

[95_318SLT]

Originally Posted by 1shotjake That would then lead to my next question, can I pull the shaft and still function in 2x4? I wasn't sure if the wheel hub is attached via the shaft or not. does $25 sound like a good priced for a used one? I figure since its used, and I can't be completely sure of it's condition of projected lifespan, that that would be a good deal. found a local parts truck and that was going to be my offer (though I plan to verify my concerns before going about purchasing parts). Yes, you can pull the cv shafts out. The hub is bolted to the knuckle, which is attached by the upper and lower ball joints, and held straight by the tie rods... the cv axle itself has no structural support at all. I would not want to buy a used one, cause I would not want to do the job twice when it doesn't last... But thats just me.

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[dodgerules86]

Originally Posted by 95_318SLT

Our trucks are not vaccum actuated, the transfer case does everything. When you are in 2 hi, the cv axles, differential, and front driveshaft all free spool together inside the transfer case. When you put it in 4 hi or 4 lo, the transfer case locks the front and rear drivetrains together. If you don't believe me put it in 2hi, jack up the front end and turn the wheels by hand, you can watch all the differnent components spin all the way back to the transfer case (which lets it free spool)

Perhaps not?
I just ran out to my garage and checked. When manually spinning the tires, the tires will spin different directions, and the drive shaft doesn't rotate.

When manually spinning the drive shaft, the tires spin the same direction.
1996.

[95_318SLT]

Originally Posted by dodgerules86

Perhaps not?
I just ran out to my garage and checked. When manually spinning the tires, the tires will spin different directions, and the drive shaft doesn't rotate.

Thats just the nature of an open differential. The rear will do the same thing if you have an open differential. The point is, if our trucks have cv axle disconnects like some other 4x4s have, if you rotate a tire nothing else will move.

Originally Posted by dodgerules86

When manually spinning the drive shaft, the tires spin the same direction.
1996.

This is exactly what I am talking about, the whole front drivetrain is connected together and free spools in the transfer case.

[1shotjake]

hmmm, well checked for random rattling parts, and stuff in tires... nothing

I did notice that on the driver's side shaft, the boot over the joint is a little loose, and the clip holding it on had slid off. I also noticed quite a bit of grease all around on the upper and lower arms. I'm thinking it must have opened up on the way home, and all the grease leaked, and now its unhappy.

[fwtc]

this is one i do know for sure. i had the entire front diff out on my back tailgate for a month. i've had to take my axles out for one reason or another about 20 times, i've got it down to a science. there is a vacuum disconnect in the housing on the pass side. when in 2x4 the short outer axle is not connected to the intermediate axle that runs into the carrier. the drivers side axle does go into the carrier but only turns the spider gears and not the carrier itself, thats why your cv's spin but not your driveshaft. in 4x4 a vacuum operated fork slides a splined sleeve over and locks the passanger side short axle to the intermediate axle in the housing and the transfer case locks the front driveshaft to your tranny giving you power to the front wheels.
your cv's do spin all the time. the only way to stop them from spinning in 2x4 is to install manual locking hubs on each wheel (about 1100 bucks and a lot of work, if you can find them).
to finally answer your question, yes it's a bad cv and you blew the boot. you will probably notice it more while turning.
to replace it can be done in 10 minuites. the book says to take the brake assembly, rotor, shock, etc off but you don't have to ( i think that's so the garage can charge you for 2 hours)
remove axle cotter pin, cap and loosen axle nut (32 mm or 1 and1/4 inch socket). raise vehicle, remove tire then axle nut. put a couple of extensions together to reach the back of the cv at the axle flange. take the 6 bolts out and let the back of the cv drop then pull it out, (if it doesn't drop then tap the back cv case with a hammer, it will). you will have to turn the axle as you remove each bolt so you can get at them. if you don't have a compressor then get someone to hold the brake after each time you turn the cv until you crack each one and there loose.
installing the new one is the same just in reverse.
i have closeup pictures of the diff on the tailgate partially disassembled if anyone wants them just e-mail me, might give you a better idea how it works (it was a lot of trial and error with me)
hope that saves ya a few bucks and extra work!
p. s. if your boots are cracked or leaking replace them right away, DO NOT PUT IT OFF! the cv joint will only last a very short time when dirt and water gets in (about a month maybe 2). a boot is $20 and an entire cv is $250 here. i learned the hard way.

[1shotjake]

well, i no longer have a mystery on my hands... and now for the first installment of

Lessons learned the hard-way with 1Shot!

today's edition: Always check your nuts!





all kidding aside, i found that my cv wasn't exploding before my ears. I drove around a little today, and after i jacked up the front and spun each wheel to check for any slack ect. in the axles, i found both were pretty firm and didn't seem to be broken in any way. not to mention i didn't get the klicking/grinding sound. I drove around some more and heard the sound coming from the back. So i jacked up the rear axle and checked both sides to see any problems. well found it. Rear drivers side wheel was loose like a mother. wobbling all over the place. I pulled it off, inspected the studs for any striping, and checked the rim. It was all good, and that gave me the opportunity to check the rear drums... and sure enough my shoes are almost bare. So... after that all checked out, put it all back together. no more clicking, and now my brakes are even a little more firm.

I think they must have pulled the wheel when i got my pump installed, and must have done a shotty job putting it back. Add that to about 1000 miles in a week and a half, you get one loose wheel. I kinda wish my dad had gone through his paranoid car routine before we left for michigan as he always done... woulda caught it earlier, had not problems. I also know i gotta get on those brakes as well now.

[95_318SLT]

dang that sucks! you should go back and inform them of their mistake. At least no damage was done and you don't have to spend a fortune on cv axles or wheel bearings.

[dbilik]

Good thing you found it and didn't lose your tire. I would go back and tell them too.