I recently bought a 94' dakota with the 318 V8 and it has ran great for a couple of weeks. This week out of the ordinary it stopped starting. The motor cranks over but will not start. We replaced the sensor that sits under the cap and rotor because I read that was a common issue, but it still won't start. We got ahold of a scanner and the engine threw a code 42 for the ASD Relay Curcuit. We checked the relay and the fuse and both are fine. I was wondering if anyone had a link to a trouble tree I could use to check into the ASD Relay Curcuit problem as this is my main lead right now or if anyone had any suggestions.
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The power splice under the distribution box is notorious for going bad or corroding on these trucks. That would be the first place I would check if I were you. There is some info in FAQs about this issue.
"If you ain't breakin' stuff, you ain't drivin' hard enough"
Location: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
I'd check for spark first. If your getting spark, your ASD relay is working.
Get a multimeter.
Pull the ASD relay. If you have questions on what terminal is which, it should be printed on the bottom of the relay itself.
With the ignition off, you should have voltage at terminal 30 (of the power distribution center for the ASD relay). This is your "hot" wire. Wiggle the wiring harness and make sure it keeps getting voltage.
With the ignition switch ON, battery voltage should be present at terminal 86. Again, wiggle the wiring harness and make sure it keeps getting voltage.
Now, you will need a helper. Have your helper hold the key in "START" and check for a good around on terminal 85. Again, wiggle the wiring harness and make sure it keeps getting a ground. (Note: I've never personally checked for this, but it *should* work)
If that checks out, theres really only one thing left. Check continuity between terminal 87 and either the distributor coil electrical connector or one of the fuel injector electrical connectors (try both of the wires on each connector just to be sure). Again, wiggle the wiring harness and make sure it keeps continuity.
If there are any problems with the steps above, either a fuse is bad some where, or there is some wiring problem.
If that checks out, it's onto different gremlins.
hey everyone thanks for the help with my starting issue. I worked on it tonight and it is running great again. It turned out to be the power splice under the distribution box as was suggested. Also to anyone having this problem my (ASD Relay/Fuel Pump Relay/PCM) splice was looking pretty weak also so this could be another source of the problem.
Thanks again found link to this thread ...looks like a good place to start!
I have suspected bad wiring (fought that battle with my other 92 Dakota in a different place). I have a "flock" of older British cars ...didn't know Lucas "prince of darkness" made some of the components in my Dodge! After re-wiring the "LBC's" they work in 3 modes of Lucas electrics: OFF/DIM/FLICKER . but not the 4th one... IGNITE.
so i had the dieng problem .... soldered the wires tonight and then lokked inside the box where the asd relay is and i see three relays but the diagram labled asd relay's corrisponding relay receptor is missing ? truck was just dieng and not starting sometimes randonmly .... any thoughts? i know this thread is pretty old ......
Hello all, I am new here and need help pls. I am experiencing a similar problem with my 1991 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 described in this topic. The only difference is, my truck won't start if the ambient temp is 45F or colder (will turn over fine). Above 45F and it will start fine and run fine. If there was a break in the electrical or bad relay it wouldn't start at all.
The truck has 155k miles and in very good condition, Previous owner replaced the following:
coil, cap, rotor, pick-up coil, plugs, plug wires and ASD relay, checked fuses. no luck. (he was so mad he GAVE me the truck)
One thing I did notice, the ambient temp was warm and the truck started. I turned the truck off. I used the "KEY-ON, KEY-OFF" method to extract any codes in memory. The only codes were "12" (replaced battery) and "55" end of code cycle.
The next morning was very cold and thought I'd try starting the truck. Cranked over fine..... Well, no spark, no fuel = no start. OK, I'll try checking codes again. I noticed the "check engine light" or "maint. reqired" light wasn't showing at all when I turn the key on. So I left it alone most of the day until the ambient temp was warm. About 2:30pm I tried extracting codes again. This time the "check engine" and "maint. required" showed on the instrument, check engine light did it's thing for me with no new codes. and yes, the darn thing started right up! I tried this 3 days in a row. Cold morning=no start=no check engine light(with key on position). Warm afternoon=start right up=check engine light functioning(with key on position)
I'm in the dark on this one.
Hey crazy4x4rt. Yeah, I opened the entire harness and checked ALL the splices and connectors. Everything was clean and no oxidation or corrosion. I was able to isolate the problem by means of leaving the truck in the shop over night. The next morning I arrived 6am. The truck wouldn't start as usual due to the cool ambient temp.
I hooked up a small electric heater and pointed to various areas under the hood (about 20 min each point). I also left the ignition key in the "ON" position so when the system "woke up" i would hear the relays kicking in. ECU was next in line for the heat test. Shure enough, about 5 min the relays started kicking in and out. I turned off the ignition switch and waited another 15 min. with the heater pointed at the ECU. The truck fired right up after 20 min of heat pointed at the ECU. Now, all connections have been inspected. I always thought when a computer gives up then thats it but not in this case. I proceeded to disassemble the ECU for inspection and possibly resolder or replace some radioshack componants. When I opened the cover I was surprised to see the entire board sealed with some kind of ruberized jello. So I guess the ECU can not be repaired? Looks like I'll have to buy another ECU!
Yup the PCM un-repairable. It is silicone, it is enclosed to keep it whether proof since it is under the hood. If you got a V8 it is best to get the Mopar High Performance PCM instead of stock style. 1 other possibility is the coolant temp sensor.