No, 22dodge is definately right about that. If you decode the model number "231" the 2 means 2 speeds, the 3 means it has a 3 out of 7 strength rating, and the 1 means its a part time t case. I believe the later Dodge Dakotas and Rams were given the 241s, and the Diesels were given the 271s. The 231 has been known to disinigrate under the 5.2 on our trucks.
And just to clarify, 22dodge, I never said the a500 couldn't be made to handle the power, they just aren't known to be able to from the factory. Theres several people on here running them behind v8s. I know they can work, but you have to consider the context of the OP's situation... he is looking in junkyards for a used factory replacement transmission, so telling him he could go with a used a500 behind his 5.2 isn't good advise. Going back to the decoding... the a500 is the 42rh and the a518 is the 46rh. The 4 means 4 speed, the 2 and 6 are the torque handling rating, the r means it's a rear wheel drive transmission, and the h means it is hydraulically controlled. I realize they probably aren't on the same scale, but you just called the 231 a POS for having a low strength rating, and at the same time saying you think the 42rh, also with a low strength rating, is a good choice of tranmission. You should also realize that your 904 probably doesn't have the low strentgh rating anymore with whatever mods you've done, but I would think that if the OP was interested in finding and modifying a transmission, he would just rebuild the 46rh that came out of his truck.
Anyway, all arguing aside... just out of curiosity, have you seen anyone put the 47 or 48rh internals in a 46? I've always wanted to know if it was all a direct swap. Not that it matters anymore since I swapped my truck over to a 5 speed, but others on here may be curious.
**EDIT**
Oh, and this is slightly off topic, but its not horsepower that will break a transmission. Power is the rate at which the engine can do work, and a high horsepower engine can't neccessarily put out a high amount of force (if you don't believe me, think about a 400 hp honda civic trying to tow something). Torque is what will break things cause torque is the actual amount of force that an engine puts out.
NEVER did I say that I recommended it. I offered this option because it may be easier and cheaper to the the thing back on the road. I suppose if I said you can use a non-magnum trans on a magnum motor that I'm a moron for this... but I did it and had no problems after notching the bellhousing for the crank sensor.
But the people say that a 1998 minivan trans is unique only to 1998 but I had no problem installing a 2003 stratus 2.7 trans into a 1998 3.3 minivan. You just need to know the differences.
Anything is possible with rational and pragmatic problem solving methodology
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Possible and rational are often used in the same sentence, but usually as a contradicting force. Just because its possible for me to bolt something to something else doesnt make it the rational choice.
Everything is done in degrees. You can reasonably assume that because of warranty and liability issues the manufacturer is likely to rate things lower than their true capacity. So either transmission can probably handle more power than they are rated for, and so can the case.
I know of several 231s behind some VERY powerful engines in jeeps around here, and they do fine. Does than mean yours wont frag behind a 4cyl? Nope, sure dont. The chain slipped off the one in my truck and litterally ate my transfer case. That was before I owned it, but it happened none the less.
Everything breaks. If it breaks on you, its your decision what to replace it with. Upgrade, downgrade, replace. All choices. I tend to err on the side of caution when giving other people advice, for the simple fact that while it may work for me, it may just as well blow up on someone else.
I sold most of the bottom half of my truck because I didnt think it was up to what I want it to do. Crazy on the other hand is very happy with the way things under his truck have performed. I am by no means going to try to convince him that he is wrong. I would much rather hear that he is happy with his modifications than to try to tell him he is foolish for not changing them my way. Not only is that pretentious, his truck runs and drives right now Mine is a pile of parts.
I dont agree with everything that is said on the forum, and Im sure some disagree with the things I say. But in the end we are all trying to help others(most the time), so getting at each others throats does nothing but detract from the original reason we were posting.
I tend to err on the side of caution when giving other people advice, for the simple fact that while it may work for me, it may just as well blow up on someone else.
Thank you. That is the exact point I was trying to get across athough I took the long and winded way of saying it.
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If you ain't breakin' stuff, you ain't drivin' hard enough
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Don't argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Well I think u-pullit is right. I was under several each of Durango's , Grand Cherokees, Rams, Dakotas etc and the only thing that will be exact match for 94 Dakota seems to be 94 &95 dakota. The GCs starter is on the pass. side, Dakota on driver side..... Anyway I found one with potential to rebuild (my case is cracked). So is there a 46RH Diy rebuild thread? I have the ATSG manual, just like to compare notes. While I'm at it how thick is the friction material on an oem front band and a clutch plate? I'll find out when I buy the kit, but I'm curious now
there's a couple special tools you'll need when you do the OD unit. there's a spline alignment tool and a tool you need to compress the OD spring. That spring is like under 800# of force, so you don't want to just play around with getting it out.
BTW, I was digging around in my shop and came across a BRAND NEW overdrive unit for a A518 4x4. still in the orginal Mopar box. I forgot that I bought it for a customer about 10 years ago and they disappeared leaving the truck behind. I have since disposed of the truck with a mechanics lein.
I bet there is a lotta folks on here who would love that OD unit. I was aware of the special tools as I said I have the ATSG manual, I guess I should have said I have read it several times. It's the reason I'm confident I can rebuild this sucker. A couple more re-reads and this rebuild will be a no brainer. So...how much for that OD unit? Just kidding. What I really want to know is the approximate band and plate thicknesses and if there a 46rh rebuild thread somewhere that I missed.
Mine is a pile of parts. 
