No Spark at Coil or Distributor 1994 Dakota V6 -3.9 litre
Truck ran perfect 3 days ago, parked it. then we had 3 days of heavy rain.
Rain finally stopped & went out to drive truck to hdwe store.
Wouldn't start, finally figured out no spark to coil (Orange & green wire).
Tried new pick up coil, New coil, still wouldn't start.
jumpered a wire from battery + to (orange & green) coil wire & truck started.
Want to fix it right, but retired & Limited budget.
Please help, Thanks
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Last edited by dakota42784; 05-06-2010 at 06:41 PM..
Sound like the notorious power splice that provides power to the ASD and Fuel Pump relay, or just simply a bad ASD relay.
Try swapping the ASD and fuel pump relays and seeing if the problem persists. If it does, unwrap the wire splices around the power distribution center and look for a corroded connection.
Truck will not start- A common problem in the trucks, primarily ones made between 1993 Through 1995, was failure (corrosion) of the splice that feeds battery power to the automatic shutdown (ASD) and fuel pump relays. If these relays do not get battery power, your truck will not be able to start. This could also cause intermittent problems, or could possibly "kill" the truck when driving down the road. The splice is located underneath the Power Distribution Center (PDC), which is the black box located behind the battery. To Troubleshoot
"If you ain't breakin' stuff, you ain't drivin' hard enough"
Thanks , You have certainly given me a lot to check out & I will do so. One more Question:
How is the best way to remove that black relay box? Just Mark & cut wires at the bottom?
We have out of town In-laws coming this weekend & I will not be able to work on this until mon or tues, but I will definitively check out all you have given me & I will get back to the forum with my results.
Thank You very much
I changed the water pump and after i was done I had no spark and would not start. After getting on here I was able to track down the culprit. Wires under the main fuse block in the engine compartment corroded apart. Thanks to all of you who work on these trucks and have took the time to post your knowledge for the rest of us.
1994 Dakota 3.9L Auto, 113K Miles
Truck has been parked in the guys garage for the last 6 months or so, he was just taking it out every now and then and driving it around the block for his daughter who he is planning on giving the truck too. He took it around the block, parked it and about a week or two later, went out and it acted like the battery was dead. He replaced the battery but the truck would not start. Now I am trying to help him out and getting it running again for him.
Battery is fully charged, cap and rotor has been changed. Plug wires (were shot) replaced, coil ohmed out very strange, replaced it with new one (yes, I have checked it and it is good)
Relays, All relays are working with no issues, have swapped the ASD relay and it is fine.
Pulled apart all the wiring from the Relay box up to the firewall and have inspected and traced each wire, all looked good.
Replaced the Crank Shaft pickup on the back of the engine.
Getting no voltage to the coil
Have pulled and inspected the connection to the computer (60 Pin) and again, no issues.
Been reading everything on what people have been having problems with on the Dakotas and now stuck with no easy solutions. Any suggestions would help.
Sorry for no Photos yet, here is the up date. Frustration and a dent on the hood as I have been beating my head on it!!!!!
Tore apart the wire loom AGAIN, and cut, re-sodered the three way Red connection and just fluxed and sodered the ground connections that I could find. The Positive Red connection was about 8 inches from the relay box if that is the connection that people have been talking about. Ohmed out the wires that I could expose, end to end and no open connections found. And still no spark.
I am going to now do the REAL slow wire troubleshooting and checking power.
I pulled a troubleshooting repair off of AutoZone.com and have built the ground jumper cable using the .33mf capacitor that it calls out for. Has anyone ever used that? Its a little confusing on how it is written.
The thing that I am stumped at is that all this guy did was basically replace a battery that was dead, and now nothing.
Also, anyone know how to check the Crankshaft Position sensor that is in the distribitutor? Three wires? Book is showing 8 volts going into the the #1 pin, #3 pin going bact to the PCM, and the #2 going back to go with the Crankshaft Positon Sensor that is on the Transmission. (Which, we put a new one in)
Been working on this thing a hour or so a night trying to figure it out, tonight we hit the jack pot. We are 99% sure that it is the PCM. I have tore apart all of my nice wiring AGAIN, and this time ohmed out the wires with no power telling me if we did have a high or low resisdance for each wire. All the wires checked out. Talking it over with Jerry, the owner, one thing this truck has NOT done was give a Check Engine Light. Was surfing the net and typed in NO Check Engine light. Thats when I found a thread that explained that if you have no spark and the bulb for the check engine light does work, but it does not come on, this is basically saying that the PCM is NOT recieving power. Jerry was telling me that when he would drive it for about 3 or 4 hours, the TACH would basically stop working, when it cooled down after awhile it would start working again.
So we did some more digging. Power wire going into the PCM was showing 12 Volts DC, the #7 wire that goes out to the cam and crankshaft pickups that send the signal back to the PCM that allows the Coil to fire.
So, I jumped a 12 volt wire to the OUT side of the #7 wire and turned the key and the Truck jumped to life.
Hitting the junk yards next week after work and finding another one.
Have found out that these PCMs can LOCK UP and not provide the spark if a ground happens, short, etc.
FINALLY DONE!!!!! PCM was bad. So lessons learned to help those who may have this issue.
1) Check Engine light. If the truck does NOT have this light on when you first put the key in and turn it on, not cranking and you do not see this light, then this should be your first clue. That is if you are sure the light is not burnt out. Reason is that this light if your indication that the PCM is not only recieving power, but it is also putting out the power to the other items. As in the Crank Shaft sensor, or the Cam shaft sensor.
2) Check the power going out on the #7 output wire should have at least 7volts going OUT, this power is 7 to 8 volts and the easy way is to cut a paperclip and shove it on the back side and with the power on see what the PCM is putting out. Mine had only 1.5 volts coming out. Basically the PCM was locked up. With the paper clip in the back side and then using another jumper to provide 12volts, the truck started.
We orederd a replacement from the net that was $170.00 with a lifetime on it, plus they matched it with the VIN from the truck. (Critical issue there)
Hope this helps anyone else who might be dealing with this issue.
i dont know every thing about chrysler cars/truck. BUT i do know this. the chrysler dist cap, has a vent between the center tower and outside row of towers. PLUG IT with JB-weld. took me 5 years to figure this out. been doing that for 3-4 years no trouble.