Much more information can be found in the service manual, section 5, but some key points are below.
Is your brake light on the dash lit up?
I had an issue with bad brake feel after I replaced my entire brake system (except for the combination valve), the pedal pretty much went to the floor easily. Part of my issue was a leak at a brake caliper (bad copper washers), but some of it was also...
You said "I bled"... did you do a one-man bled job (with a vacuum bleeder), or a two-man (you at the wheel, the other at the brake pedal). I initially did a one-man bleed on my brakes (via vacuum bleeder), but it was still not good. I had to use a friend.
Also, make sure you keep a good eye on the Master Cylinder level. If you run low on brake fluid (and remember: as the brakes are applied, the fluid level decreases!), air WILL enter the lines, and the whole process needs to be done again. I had to redo my bleed because of that.
Taken from the Service Manual:
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The leak point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose, or caliper. Internal leakage in the master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around the leaking component. However internal
leakage in the master cylinder will not be physically evident. Refer to the cylinder test procedure in this section.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak. Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot pressure. (a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5). (b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away, master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. (a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6). (b) If no pedal action is discernible, power booster or vacuum check valve is faulty. Install known good check valve and repeat steps (2) through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500 rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake action again. Booster should provide two or more vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is not provided, perform booster and check valve vacuum tests.
As per the Service Manual, the proper bleed sequence is:
rear antilock valve
right rear wheel
left rear wheel
right front wheel
left front wheel
Make sure you bleed the system without the aid of the Power Brake Booster (ie engine not running, and the brake booster vacuum depleted).
Also, make sure to check ALL connections for ANY leaks. This included the front brake tee, rear brake tee, the front brake hose unions, etc.
Re-reading part of your original post, you said something about "low pedal"
The service manual has this to say:
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal several times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining and worn rotors or drums are the likely causes.
A decrease in fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs may only be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will decrease in proportion to wear. It is a result of the outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder pistons to compensate for normal wear. Top off the reservoir fluid level and check brake operation to verify proper operation.
Last edited by dodgerules86; 02-08-2011 at 03:49 PM.