Initially, it is best to find an area that you can occupy for a time without the neccessity of moving, as parts will "spread out". I initially removed all of the wash bottles, computer, plugs, harness wires and hoses that I could. When removing hoses, it is best to cap the lines after removing the hoses to prevent fouling of the line.
The V6 ready to be removed: (driveshaft disengaged and stored in a dry area, transmission mounts removed to include crossbrace, wheels chocked and frame supported, engine mount bolts removed, exhaust disassembled, hoses removed, etc.)
I removed the engine with a hoist by myself, but I would recommend a helper if you have the option, if for nothing else, for safety. While it is not shown, I have a large plastic tub beneath the transmission for transmission fluid to leak out into. If you have not drained the fluids from the engine your behind.
Empty engine bay. This is a good time to degrease and repair anything that needs it. If your repainting then delay your install until after the paint. Servicing the suspension, steering or other subsystems at this time is very opportunistic. You can scrap the exhaust y-pipe as it will not clear the larger transmission.
Since I was by myself, I opted for a block install and build in chassis. However, you could assemble the engine and transmission outside of the bay and install at one time, which is the preferred way. Do not cut the plugs at the top of the picture. They go to the fuel system and rear lighting. The single channel water pump pulley is fine for this application unless your going to try to use a smog pump (lol). The four row pulley at the crank could be swapped to a 3 pulley system for the same reason.
Note the fuel lines at the bottom. They should be protected from fouling. The oil pan is from a Durango or Dakota V8 magnum engine. It is shaped a little different than the Ram pan, and fits fine. The engine mounts in this photo were replaced with V8 mounts which look a little different, but it is not necessary.
Underside of oil pan.
The clearance of the waterpump to radiator is very restricted in the pre 91' Dakota since the front is built differently in the 91-95 Dakota's. As you can see, the stock radiator does not clear.
You can reuse the timing chain cover, fuel pump block off plate, and the front accessory brackets from the V6. All will bolt to the engine just fine. I recommend a new timing chain and waterpump before the engine is installed. You can also use the V6 engine mounts since they are indexed correctly.
With the intake on and carburetor, you must purchase a bracket that will allow your pedal and transmission to access the carburetor. The Chrysler specific throttle adapter bracket can be seen here. The bracket is designed to keep proper geometry between the TV cable and accelerator cable. The throttle cable attaches to this extra bracket.
This picture shows a ignition setup for chryslers. There are different methods to provide ignition from a standalone distributor, to an all out custom EFI setup. Prices vary so attention to budget is critical.
Prewiring for ignition.
Throttle assembly bracket and cable adapter. I am reusing the original throttle cable, but the V6 transmission linkage does not work for this application.
This is the original acessory bracket with the a/c delete pulley installed.