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Help! 1990 dodge dakota wont start.

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Old 07-30-2013, 11:45 PM
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Default Help! 1990 dodge dakota wont start.

Hey guys, i just scooped up a 1990 dodge dakota, 2wd, 3.9l it is in great shape, but doesn't run, it gets fire, and when gas is poured into the "carb" it runs, i checked several things, and figures id make a list so it would stay organized.
THINGS I CHECKED:
-the famous fusible link/splice problems-seems to be fine.
-various fuses
-made sure the gas tank has gas,
-Electrical connections to the gas tank, *i used a test light to check the wires* there is only one hot wire out of the 5 (moves the gas gauge) to the electrical connections to the tank, id think there should be more than one,


and thats about it, the p.o said he tried to jump it off and it would never start, im assuming when he tried to jump it it could have messed something up? on my dads car he went to jump it and screwed the fuel sending unit, so I'm kinda lost, I'm thinking maybe the ecm? or what do you all think? i know you guys know your stuff! thanks in advance!

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Last edited by Turningwrenches808; 07-30-2013 at 11:57 PM..
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:33 AM
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bump?
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Old 07-31-2013, 02:02 AM
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BKCowGod BKCowGod is offline
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Might wanna give us a while longer to respond... A few questions:
* What does "seems to be fine" mean? How did you check?
* Is the fuel pump working? How do you know? Is the filter not clogged? How do you know?
* Carb? Has it been converted from EFI?

An engine needs air, spark, and fuel to run. It sounds like fuel isn't getting from the gas tank. You need to figure out if your fuel pump is running or not.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:40 AM
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Sorry about that.
Seems fine means I checked the splices,
I disconnected the line before the fuel filter (from the tank) and no gas came out, so no, that's why I said the possibly the ECM, because only 1 wire is hot going to the tank,

And sorry, I looked closer and it is efi, it looks like a carb and says Holley on the front, so I just assumed haha,

And as I said when I pour gas into the "carb look a like" it runs for a sec. Then cuts off, the only thing I can think of is when he jumped it he fried something
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:33 PM
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To check if your fuel pump is running, get an assistant to turn the key and listen for the whirring noise at the gas tank when the key is turned to the ON position, might have to take the gas cap off to hear it. The whirring noise only happens for about one second, so you'll need an assistant or a very quite place.
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:57 PM
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Thanks! I tried that, it clicks but no "whining" and I disconnected the fuel line so It's def not pumping gas, I was thinking the clicking was the fuel gauge cable.
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:54 AM
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the whining is the pump building up fuel pressure. If you don't have the whine, I'd say you need a new fuel pump, which comes as a unit with the sender and all that. You'll have to drop the tank to get to it.
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:27 PM
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Thanks alot guys, how many hot wires should go into the plugin? I can't imagine it'd be one hot and 4 grounds ... Unless it is from the fuel pump.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:05 AM
vhinze vhinze is offline
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My '93 pump has 4 wires. Number 1 is ground, 2 is the gauge, 3 is the "low fuel " lamp and 4 is the hot for the whole assembly including the pump. Number 4 is typically green/black.
The computer runs the pump for a second or two, then stops if there is no signal from the distributor pick-up indicating engine rotation.
If you have a fuel pressure gauge (extremely handy in these circumstances) the pressure should spike at 40 or so pounds then decrease to 31-32 psi. This is the fuel pressure regulator doing its thing. There is a Shrader type fitting at the regulator end of the fuel rail to connect the tester to. The pressure should take at least a minute to bleed down after you shut the engine down. It is far from uncommon for pumps on these trucks to go **** up at this age. About 140 bucks will bring a new Carter with the revised metal filter on ebay. I'd steer clear of the cheap knock-offs, unless dropping a fuel tank multiple times is your idea of a good time. Also, if you end up needing a new pump, you'll have to reuse the roll-over valve from the top of the old pump. Nothing wrong with that, but be very careful when dropping the tank and uninstalling/reinstalling the rather short hose from the barbed fitting on said valve. If the barb gets snapped off, a new roll over valve is only available from a stealership and costs almost as much as the pump.
Some say raise the bed to get to the tank. Good luck with that on the planet I was raised on. Maybe somewhere in Arizona.

P.S. Yeah, there's five wires. 2,3 and 4 are for the gauge and lamp, 5 is for the pump and 1 is ground.

Last edited by vhinze; 08-05-2013 at 11:07 PM.. Reason: My bad
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:05 AM
 
 
 
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