I have a 94 Dodge Dakota Sport and it keeps burnin up headlight switches,.... anybody else had problems with this and what did ya do to fix it ?

 

Haven't yet, but that was an endemic problem (well, the light switch and the MFS that included an integral dimmer switch) on my MN12-based Cougar. So - I have a relay harness that does the actual switching, and the light switch and dimmer just switch the relays, not the headlights themselves.

The 1994 should have a 9007 bulb in each side, right? In which case, a unit such as this one should do the job nicely, although I'd fuse the connection to the battery (10A per leg on that design SHOULD work well).

Note: That is NOT a recommendation for that SPECIFIC unit, but a quick Google found it with the picture. I actually made my own for the Cougar to go with the conversion from factory 9007 bulbs to using the Grand Marquis headlamps with the 9005/9006 pair, and I'm doing a similar kit for the 1988 Dakota using a pair of the "4666/9004 Conversion Harness" to get the plug part, and sockets out of a junkyard. But my wiring won't be identical due to, well, being the 1988 Dakota, different bulbs.

RwP

 

I found that if I get my dimmer at full bright it would not burn out in my '93 so you might want to give that a try first I've been on the same switch for 10 years no I had gone through 2 other switch's.

 

Ok,.... I understand I need to put in relays,.... don't know what "mfs" and all the letter/# stuff means. I looked at the harness,... I can make that, no problem. How do I know what kinda relay to get ? How can I identify one in a junkyard situation ? "Get my dimmer at full bright",... what do ya mean by that ?

 

Sorry - "Multi Function Switch" for MFS.

What kind? I'd use the generic Bosch 4 or 5 terminal relay that's so dirt cheap on-line. All you need is a SPST 12V coil relay rated at least 20A, but the Bosch design is typically 30 to 40A, giving some extra reserve capacity.

Here's ONE possible source for the relays themselves. Last time I bought them, I bought these, and also these relay sockets.

Soar_Dude is talking about the instrument panel dimmer control, where you turn the headlight switch **** to brighten/dim the dash lights.

If you wire up your own, it's recommended that you wire the fused 12V to the 87 contact - that way, when the relay is OFF, there's no power on the 87a contact. Most diagrams show power to 30 (the common), and take off the 87 - this leaves 87a hot when the relay is not active on a SPDT relay (SPST doesn't have that problem, since they don't have the 87a contact ...)

RwP

 

Thank you everyone ! I ended up buying the already made up harness that ya gave me the link to. Any tips on putting it in would be appreciated. I know the manufacturer of the aftermarket harness says to hook it to battery, but I've now seen some homemade harnesses that are hooked directly offa the alternator. Which way works best ? Thanks again !

 

Which works best? Whichever floats your boat. I'm of the "Close to the battery as possible", but if you've done the Big 3 (Big 4?) then the alternator may be better.

Which reminds me - it's time to source a fuse block for my relay installation I'll be doing, one I can bolt near the battery and pick 12V up off of it.

As to hints *shrug* I'll be installing with the grill off, using some convoluted tubing to protect the wiring and to give me something to zip tie to. Also, I'll be mounting my relays via the ears into the front of the core support. Lotsa room on a 88 up there.

RwP

 

Yes. I bought a headlight switch from O'Reillys when I was chasing down another problem. That problem was not the switch but, something else I fixed. The switch lasted about a year before my lights started failing randomly.

I replaced it recently with a Napa switch. No problems since. It feels much more stout compared to the old O'Reillys switch. From now on, I'll buy all my parts from Napa.

 

I got 97 dak I burned up 2 on my 3rd in the pass 2yrs not sure why this hasnt been recalled yet