So is it really as simple as pulling the bolt out of the adjuster and slipping the key off the bar? What am I in for on this job?

Thanks.

 

Yes, first get the suspension unloaded, some say place a C-Clamp on the keys to avoid damaging the threads of the bolt while unbolting it. If you have rust in between the torsion bar and key or to the control arm you may want to try using PB blaster.

 

Not sure about the first gen, but on the second gen, it can be difficult to pull the key down out of the crossmember far enough to slide it off. You may need a large prybar and a block of wood to hold it (don't worry, it won't hurt the torsion bar to flex that far). That's the hardest part, IMO.

 

when i pulled mine down on my 92, gawd i suspended the front off the ground and used a 1/2 inch ratchet no clamp nothing it came down easily enough with oil ontop on threads.... almost like it had 0 load, also had to hold the top nut with vise grips after about 2-3 turns... after it was unbolted i had to do like tom said,but was able to pull it down enough by hand and shove in a 4x4 block, i just modified mine with strips of steel ontop, rather then replace, it worked nice but man rough ride after

 

hi to all,

So we are extra clear here... I need to do mine for a 3" inches key replacement.

Everywhere on the internet, they say you need an unloading tool else, you can lose your face (or something) if the key snaps.
On the other hand, the key on the (mine is Dakota 92 3.9 4x4) first-generation Dakota is quite different from everything I have seen so far:

The retaining piece is not in the middle of the cross member, thus retaining a minimum of tension (usual setup, other trucks)
The retaining piece is on the top of the cross member, thus acting more like a huge "nut" ... if my visualization of forces in place is good. (first-generation Dakota). At the same time, my keys have holes to receive the unloading tool!?

Please correct me if I am wrong:
- Truck lifted so as to have NO load on the "working" tire/suspension,
- I can SAFELY just unscrew the torsion key adjusting stud without any other precaution? I do not see why the key would snap.

1) Do you guys agree, confirm, or I am missing something..?
2) If so, why other trucks are not designed like the Dakota?

Thanks!

 

1) Jack up the frame on whatever side you're installing the key until the wheel is off the ground, use jack stands. Do one side at a time. If you don't jack the frame and simply remove the torsion key bolt, the truck will buckle at the tire into the wheel housing. Lots of stored energy because roughly 1/4 of the vehicle weight is loaded on that key. Jacking it off the ground by the frame should take that load off as the weight is now on the jack and not the control arm. There will still be some load, I would use the tool regardless for safety reasons, you're going to need it to put it back on anyways. I actually got away with not using that tool for mine using a ball joint press, would not recommend. If you're having trouble removing the key, you will probably have to remove the lower control arm and the pin on it to push torsion bar forward off key and back for new key. Can be a pita. Depends on clearance, not sure how it is on dakotas newer than 1990.

2) Not sure, depends on engineer I guess. If it works, it works?

For me on my 1988, the torsion key was floating below the cross member and the bolt was pressing onto the control arm from the key pushing down on it. Cross member wasn't holding it in place. Only thing really keeping it straight was the control arm itself and an indentation in the cross member. In my opinion I thought this was strange since if by small chance the key had a strike with enough force while it was in air it could get dislodged from the bolt misaligning it causing the load to shift off the bolt. On other trucks I've seen the torsion bar slid through an opening in the cross member into the key, which I think may be intended to stop that from happening.