-Update #2: ACTUALLY that dusty ebay PCM gave me rough cold start under 40*f, but otherwise worked FINE. So I core'd it to NAPA for a rebuilt CARDONE unit. THAT PCM has been working good at any temp.
-Update #1: SOLVED PCM replaced with used ebay PCM. Zero issues and ive been driving my Dakota more often than ever. as a side note I did also replace the transmission control solenoid as suggested by the PCM re-manufacturer CARDONE. Shoutout to the dodge dealer that I gave my VIN and they told me I had a 2 wire trans control solenoid, only to take it apart and find a 3 wire. RockAuto took back the 2 wire (non lockup convertor) thankfully, and a nearby part store had the 3 wire.

-Original Post:
This thing is still acting the same, if not worse and maybe more frequent. So basically no change .

I have since confirmed;

-the cam sensor in the distributor & crank angle sensor (crank done twice now)
-Relays tested by a shop, i've moved the relays around also
-Infamous red w/ white wire splices (under PDC relay box) looked ok, a little green corrosion so we re-soldered & sealed anyway
-Fuel pressure good at fuel rail upon stall, new filter installed
-Ignition switch circuit to PCM (pin 9) voltages normal

Same random stalling! arggg! I think i'm leaning toward a PCM more than ever, just thinking of the most logical place to get it from. The dealer said theirs would have to be programmed? What about the other new/re-manufactured ones?



Just last night I changed the crank sensor for the second time and the truck ran fine after, took it down to the store with a friend and he sat in the truck with it running while I went in and washed my hands and got some beef jerky. Truck ran fine while I was inside, didnt stall. Drove the short drive home and parked it for around 4 hours.

Decided I wanted to drive it again, and it started, ran fine but only drove ~50 feet up my road!! This time though it WOULD NOT start. I must have been cranking and turning the key on/off for 10 minutes easily. "It's never taken this long..." i'm thinking to myself. I hear a car coming finally so I try again and same thing, just fast cranking.

The car turns out to be a long time friend of mine who had witnessed the stalling issue a weekend prior while we were both at a mutual friends house. But it started within 1 minute that time.

So he stops to check it out and sees its just cranking and cranking. He has worked in shops so he knew to switch the key on and off quickly 3 times to start the codes:

It blinked once then twice, so 12? and then 5 blinks & 5 blinks, so 55? NO CODES! Then he says "I bet it starts now..." and sure enough it starts. Just in time as another car is coming and we're blocking the whole (not busy) road at this point, & im sure my friend wants to get home.

He has since told me to "verify the wire going from ignition switch to PCM has power when it stalls"

One question for you folks, what PCM or computer would you recommend if I do end up buying one? Of course there are the parts store brands ~$220, but I also called the dealer with my part number from inside my 1992 model PCM (56027141). The dealer asked for my VIN and came back with new part number (R6027141) @ $363 + IT NEEDS TO BE PROGRAMMED!? & i've also seen the Mopar performance PCM on summit.

What I don't get is why hasn't NAPA or anyone other than the dealer mentioned programming the VIN into the PCM? I think it was just some new kid at the dealer who has never worked on OBD1... Like if I bought one from NAPA it still needs to be programmed? Don't think so.


Thanks for any tips anyone can provide,

Lou





-------------------
Older 'original post:'
Hello!

I have had this 1992 Dakota 5.2L V8 a long time (since I was 16, now 25) and it has slowly developed this issue of complete random stalling. I say that because it has stalled on me at ANY speed, idling, parking lots, even on the freeway! You can literally go weeks between 2 stalling events. Sometimes slightly more frequent, but it has rarely stalled on me twice in the same day, but it has.

When it does stall it is completely silent like someone turned the key off, it will not start back up until you turn the key off, wait a few seconds, and turn the key back on. Which means you better have a place to pull over! Very frustrating. The truck has never ever ran bad in general, no surging, no backfiring, nothing like that ever.

I see the FAQ page regarding the corroding wire splices & ASD relay, but i've very rarely had problems just starting the truck... but it has happened. I can really only think of one time parked at a friends, lots of cranking & cycling the ignition on and off before it finally started. I haven't had any other starting issues that I can remember. Maybe one other occasion like that.

I love the truck so I really want to figure it out. The shop its at (right now) doesn't want to just throw a computer at it, and the problem is so intermittent/random the shop hasn't been able to duplicate the problem with diagnostic hooked up. They mentioned 'wanting to verify spark...' when re-starting after a stall i'm guessing?


Replaced so far are (updated 5.16.16)

-the cam sensor in the distributor & crank angle sensor (crank done twice now)
-Relays tested by a shop, i've moved the relays around also
-Infamous red/white splices (under PDC) looked ok, a little green corrosion so we re-soldered & sealed anyway
-Fuel pressure good at fuel rail upon stall'
-Ignition switch circuit to PCM voltages normal


&

The current thing(s) to check;

Ground circuit PCM pins 11 & 12 continuity to ground


Thanks for ANY help!

-Lou

 

Don't be too quick to dismiss the harness corrosion as a possibility, intermittent stalling is just as likely to be the primary symptom; its not always a "no start" condition:

Coils have been known to fail this way too. It may work fine until the engine bay reaches a certain temp, then fails, and won't work again until it cools down.

Relays are much cheaper than an ECU. Try replacing the ASD relay, or just swap it with another relay (like the AC relay).

 

Thank you very much for your reply, I have not ruled out the harness corrosion. Was there an actual magazine article that the FAQ images were copied from?

I thought I'd seen a whole article a year or 2 ago when I was chasing this same problem up. I Can't seem to find an actual magazine article now. Also, the first image in the FAQ doesn't seem to be loading.

Also it just seems strange the thing has never stalled on me twice in the same day you know? When I was looking at PCM's on NAPA they had a thing saying "oh! you're looking for a PCM? Well we'll have you know a common reason for a bad PCM is a bad Transmission Control Solenoid!" Is there any truth to that? I know to test the TCS you have to have the truck in the air and get it into 4th gear. Sounds fun, & since it's not too expensive of a part I was thinking of just doing it anyway if we're talking putting in a new PCM, ya know?

I also read on here or another forum where a guy actually removed the silicone from inside the PCM and was able to see broken capacitor connections and resolder them to the circuit board. Fixing his supposed stalling issue.

Thanks again.

 

My truck did the same thing got worse over time did all the fixes still stalled got harder and harder to restart as it progressed turned out on my truck it was the ECU after replacing a boat load of parts the ECU fixed hasnt stalled in a long time and even runs better

 

Thank you for posting bigslammy

 

Bit of an update up top in the original post! 1992 Dakota still having random stalling.

TL DR;
I checked infamous #115 splice corrosion myself (3 red/white wires to 1 red/white wire), looked ok I resoldered it anyway.. SAME random stalling! still no codes.

If I need a PCM what is the best route to go? Parts store? Dealership?

The dealer told me if I bought one new from them my VIN would NEED to be programmed in to the new PCM ?

 

I seen you Checked the fuel pressure at the time of stall, I had an issue like this, my fuel presure was good also,good friend of mine said to open the gas filler tube and listen to the pump if it sounds like its trying to chew rocks could be your problem,I replaced the pump assembly and never stalled again.

From what I've experienced with the PCM is no difference in automatic vs manual but 2wd vs 4wd will run into problems, I've pulled a few from the junk yard trying to fix my stall and all from 92-95 worked the same as long as its from the same engine, and again won't make a difference between auto or manual but 2wd vs 4wd will throw codes and not run property.

Not sure if the imfomous wire harness short your talking about is the positive wire for the fuel injectors but I've run into that issue of the wire splice shorting with the block.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for your reply. The splice im talking about "powers the PCM, fuel pump, and coil" http://faq.dakota-truck.net/Electron..._stalling.html

I have noticed after the truck stalls; I turn the key on, and noise near the fuel tank is just a click only.

Now when it DOES eventually start (or any normal successful key on/start) it's not just a click... I can clearly hear a 'buzz zz..' THEN the same click. Followed by the buzzing or whirring (of the fuel pump?) getting quieter, and then starting the truck.

I haven't necessarily ruled out dropping the tank. I was going to do a fuel pump and sending unit... but the sending unit is $120 and my experiences with the functions (or side effects) of a fuel sender are limited. Chances/insight? Not to mention my knowledge of the control the PCM/sending unit has over the fuel components.

I actually had a guy at a gas station try and give me his and his fathers experience with their 90's Dakota(s). He actually mentioned something about his fathers fuel sender when I explained a little about my issue.

Thank you again for your reply. I guess one of my reasons for not suspecting the fuel pump is it has been to a shop before... but they kinda sucked so.. me and occasionally a couple mechanic friends are looking into things ourselves! They didn't even find the splice (even gave them some forum pictures/info) I asked them to find.

 

Suggestion: If you go to tackle the fuel pump, pull the bed.

It's not that heavy to pick up, and you'll really appreciate how much easier it is to work on with the tank mounted.

Also, while the bed's off, crawl the wiring to the back and fix / replace any that's questionable.

RwP

 

Here is a page link with the TSB's for 87-93 Maybe something in this will give you an idea and or explain some other issues you have. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/0_old_ix.htm