Timing issue? engine pops/crackels when give it lot of gas but is fine and quiet in normal idle.

 

Hey, I've been reading through this forum for months and haven't been able to figure that one out yet either.

My 95 3.9l does the same thing, I tried the intake plenum fix, replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets, installed the autolite 3923 plugs, replaced the pcv valve, checked the distributor wasn't loose, checked the tps and cleaned the iac valve. replaced cracked vacuum lines. Fluid levels are fine. Compression was high and within range of each other. No codes on the computer.

On mine, you can't hear it if you slowly accelerate but as soon as you give it some gas it starts up, and the engine feels really sluggish until it hits higher rpms. It definitely gets louder with the rpms, but only when driving, it's hard to detect if you are revving it up from the engine bay to try to pin point it. I feel like it is primarily on the passenger side. Have you noticed these similar symptoms?

I'm with you, wondering if it could be the timing chain, heck I've about replaced or fixed everything else at this point. I'm sure at 257,xxx it should be done, I've only owned it for 6 months so if it's ever been changed is a mystery. I don't want to change it just hoping it fixes the problem.

*Insert emoticon here*

 

The timing chain has a TSB as they built these things with no tensioner. Its simple to add it on when you do the chain.
I don''t have the same popping issue but its similar, lifter vale noise & power loss under hard load until it gets back on flat or I drop it out of OD. Mine is normal almost like new on the flat. 94, 142K I really doubt I could pull any kind of weight right now.
I did the plenum(tanked the TB and the intake), all the sensors on the Throttle body, the oil pressure gauge, the Oxygen Sensor, Coil, cap, rotor, cam semsor or switch plate under the rotor, plugs, wires, Rebuil (42RH)t tranny new TV cable and return spring and cleaned the connection at the PCM wire harness. Oh yea the first thing I did was a new EGR.
I'm down to getting the injector syncronisation checked, if its not that changing the heads and possibly the injectors.

These things self time from the PCM turning the distributor only affects the injector synchronisation.

 

A part of my issue has been exhaust leaks I have discovered. The manifold to the downpipe and y pipe to the main line had pretty decent leaks. I managed to get them mostly sealed up and I have a lot more power now and the popping has quieted down some.

onemore94dak, have you checked if that's a possibility on yours?

 

onemore94dak, have you checked if that's a possibility on yours?

No. I did check for restrictions in the exhaust, there were none. I haven't noticed anything like an exhaust leak. Can they be hidden? I'm pretty sure my noise is coming from the head.

 

they can be tricky to find, I didn't know I had any until I ran my hand around all the joints, I was surprised how much exhaust was coming out and yet i couldn't hear it when it was just idling, only time I could was when I was driving it and at that point it all just sounds like noise from the engine. I know that's not the only thing causing my noisy engine, but it has quieted down quite a bit since I snugged everything up.
I plan on pulling the valve covers off and measuring the clearances between the valves and the cam this weekend, find out how far off they are at 250,xxx miles. I know that can cause a lot of noise too. And logically, if anything is worn down then the valves aren't opening all the way which could cause some serious power loss and noise.

I imagine if it were something with the chain it would be more of a grinding-slappy type of noise as opposed to a kakaka kakaka ptew ptew (ROFL) My wife is staring at me like I'm nuts because I'm sitting here making these noises out loud trying to figure out how to type them out .

 

Found a few things over on google, mainly that our lifters in these trucks are hydrolic so they automatically adjust, if they leak then they don't hold the oil pressure or something and can get noisy and you just have to replace them. I also found this (Below), which seemed to clear up a lot of people's complaint of similar noise over on another forum. Basically stating yes indeed replace the timing chain and install the tensioner. I prefer to live in denial and will just put up with it for now.

Date: Jun.27,1997
models: 1994 - 1997 (BR) Ram Truck V6
1990 - 1997 (AN) Dakota
1990 - 1997 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon
1990 - 1993 (AD) Ram Pickup/Ram Cab & Chassis/Ramcharger
1994 - 1997 (BR) Ram Truck
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 3.9L ENGINE.
symptoms:
Rattling or lifter type noise coming from the front (chain case) area of the engine.
diagnosis:
Start the engine and bring it to operating temperature. Increase and decrease engine RPM slightly while listening to the front end of the engine for a rattling or lifter type noise. A stethoscope can be used to help pin point the noise location. If the noise is found coming from the timing chain case, perform the Repair Procedure.
parts:
� 1 83507095 Timing Chain and Sprocket Package
� 1 53021057 Gasket, Timing Chain Case
� 1 02129013 Gasket, Water Pump 1990 - 1991
� 1 04483757 Gasket, Water Pump 1992 - 1997
� 1 4897297AA Seal, Front Case 1992 - 1997
� 1 03830109 Seal, Front Case 1990 - 1991
� 1 53021195AA Tensioner, Timing Chain
repair:
This bulletin involves replacing the timing chain and sprockets and installing a timing chain tensioner.
1. Following the appropriate service manual procedures, disassemble the front end of the engine to gain access to the timing chain and sprockets.
2. Remove the chain and sprockets from the engine. Discard the parts.
3. Remove the chain oil tab the parts. thrust plate and (Figure 1). Discard the parts.
4. Install the timing chain tensioner pln 53021195AA in the position where the thrust plate and oil tab was installed (Figure 2). Torque the bolts to 24 Nm (21 0 in. Lbs.).

5. Install the new timing sprockets and chain pln 083507095. Align the timing marks per the appropriate service manual procedure. Torque the camshaft bolt to 68 Nm (50 ft. Lbs.).
6. Remove the lock pin that holds the tensioner plate for the chain. Discard the pin.
NOTE: WITH THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER INSTALLED, THE CAMSHAFT END PLAY WILL BE 0.051 - 0.330MM (.002 TO.013 IN).
7. Reinstall the remaining components per the appropriate service manual procedures.
notes:
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: 09-10-05-92 .................................. 2.3 Hrs.
Optional Equipment:
09-10-05-61 Power Steering ...................... 0.2 Hrs.
09-10-05-63 Air Conditioning ..................... 0.4 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part

 

IDK that I want to remove the top of the motor again yet. I wish I'd known that I should have changed the lifters when i had the intake off, I would have.

 

I've been searching for answer to the same problem. Have read that it is perhaps distributer gear and bushing

 

Easy way to find an exhaust leak is grab a buddy and plug the tail pipe and just move along your exhaust your leaks will be very easy to find