No, vapor charging (tank fitting on top).

That "oily" could be due to the lack of a barrier layer - that's a big thing for R134a and newer refrigerants.

And yes, but the receiver/dryer is between the condensor and the thermonic expansion valve - the low pressure "cycle" switch is right off the TEV and on the part of that hose set that runs to the compressor.

The '87 uses a rubber hose by the SMEC, '88 and up used solid aluminum line, otherwise our two systems (if you have a 3.9) should be identical.

Since I have a slow leak in the heater core (bypassed for the summer!), I'm going to be tearing into the HVAC box ANYWAY - might as well freshen everything else in there up. Compressor / TEV / gaskets / R/D are about $221 at RockAuto with a new compressor. With new, I'll use PAG oil instead of ester; and toss new hoses (found'em on Ebay) and a new condensor (might as well at that point.)

It's just a right pain, considering that the ignition switch is coming apart on the Cougar AGAIN ... when I bought it (police auction), I had to replace the switch so I could drive it home, about six years ago.

RwP

 

 

Nope. It leaks down to under 10psi overnight (!!!). So, no A/C until I can.

The heater core leaks, I've got to replace it ANYWAY. While the HVAC box is open, might as well do the evaporator (get a fresh start on it.) Those old hoses are non-barrier, so it's a good idea to replace THOSE due to how R134a can migrate through them. The condensor is probably just as old, and that compressor ... well. Why replace all the rest and not do the compressor / clutch assembly? (R/D and thermionic expansion valve are pretty much any time you touch A/C in the humid south.)

While I've got the condensor (and grill, and bumper!) off, I'll also be rewiring heavier gauge wiring for the headlights, adding a transmission cooler, and eyeballing adding an electric fan to the old girl.

As to yours, yep, swapping to electric will help some. I'd swap to an electric fan, add a competent controller, and get rid of the clutch fan completely. But to do this, I'd also look at replacing the usual alternator (a 75 or 90A unit for my 1988) with the beefiest one I can find that fits as factory (there was an optional 120A for 1988 - looking at 1993 on RockAuto, I find the same alternators but with the serpentine belt pulley.) That way you can avoid quite so much sag when idling.

That idling CAN kill you - I got stuck in a traffic jam in the Cougar (also a clutch fan, no electric), and dang thing didn't overheat, but the A/C got a bit limp while sitting there for 15 minutes ... on a 99F day. Whew. Glad I wasn't in the Dak with NO A/C! I'd have melted into the floorboard! *grins*

That's too much heat for this fat white boy.

RwP

 

"It's not the heat it's the humidity."

 

True, but the heat doesn't help any either! *grins*

RwP

 

Ralph, while I agree on the alternator....... Hopefully when I replace mine, it will have something besides a 3.9 attached to it!!!!
BTW any update on yours?

 

Parts are rolling in. With the temps being almost 100, and a heat index today of 112, I'm not super anxious to go out there and start tearing the truck apart for some strange reason. That, and I've been working every day this week *grins*

One hose will have to be reordered, though.

Step at a time.

RwP

 

Ralph, I understand that!! A little off topic, but back in 1997? I purchased a 90 ford f250 work truck with no AC. I purchased one of the kits to add ac. The kit used all factory ducting and I just had to change the control in the dash and add a wiring harness. Everything else was under the hood. Where I purchased it, they had an install shop and would put it in for $200.00. Being a HVAC contractor and having worked with cars all my life, I figured I would save the $200.00 and do it myself. I mean really, how hard could it be!
Well long story short, this was in the heat of summer. After it was all done, I gotta say, that would have been one of the best $200.00 I could have spent. Man, did I earn that savings.
Back on topic, for your metering device are you using the factory device or will it be one specific for 134a?

 

The thermonic valve will be the factory one. I'll use the R134a cycle switch, though. (It will keep the compressor running at a slightly lower pressure level.)

Yah, if I could afford the labor, I'd have taken it in to get it fixed. But "I'm a poor boy, from a poor family" to quote Freddie Mercury *grins*

RwP