Missing and backfiring
#1
Missing and backfiring
I have a 1992 3.9 multipoint fuel injection. Each morning for about the first .5 of a mile the engine is constantly missing and poping through the exhaust.Then it straightens out and runs fine and won't do it again until the next morning. I have changed all sensors new fuel pump 31 lbs. presure,no check engine codes. Thanks for any help.Johnny
#2
I have a 1992 3.9 multipoint fuel injection. Each morning for about the first .5 of a mile the engine is constantly missing and poping through the exhaust.Then it straightens out and runs fine and won't do it again until the next morning. I have changed all sensors new fuel pump 31 lbs. presure,no check engine codes. Thanks for any help.Johnny
#4
The problem with a cold-run misfire and swapping sensors is, a lot of the sensors aren't used while the motor is in cold-run (before it goes closed loop after warming up enough).
So, O2s won't affect it then (they're not used until it goes closed-loop, which is not until it gets warm enough. Another strike against using a 160* thermostat ...)
Time to start checking things out, but I do notice a few things you haven't mentioned.
1) How old is the distributor cap? The rotor? The spark plug wires? The coil?
I ask about those because if it gets a bit damp inside the cap, it'll misfire. Also, it could be due to general age on the cap, rotor, and coil. The wires, my experience is they're more prone to misfire when HOT than COLD when getting old, but my experience is limited *grins*
2) What does a compression test say about your motor when run cold and when run hot? Might have some rings that gap too much, or a valve that doesn't seat well until warmed up enough.
3) Check for that splice under the battery tray that the Magnum Gen1's seem to have fits with. Also, while checking that, take the ECU connector loose and reattach it about five or six times (all with the battery disconnected!) and make sure it's not damp sneaking into corrosion/oxidation on the contacts!
RwP
So, O2s won't affect it then (they're not used until it goes closed-loop, which is not until it gets warm enough. Another strike against using a 160* thermostat ...)
Time to start checking things out, but I do notice a few things you haven't mentioned.
1) How old is the distributor cap? The rotor? The spark plug wires? The coil?
I ask about those because if it gets a bit damp inside the cap, it'll misfire. Also, it could be due to general age on the cap, rotor, and coil. The wires, my experience is they're more prone to misfire when HOT than COLD when getting old, but my experience is limited *grins*
2) What does a compression test say about your motor when run cold and when run hot? Might have some rings that gap too much, or a valve that doesn't seat well until warmed up enough.
3) Check for that splice under the battery tray that the Magnum Gen1's seem to have fits with. Also, while checking that, take the ECU connector loose and reattach it about five or six times (all with the battery disconnected!) and make sure it's not damp sneaking into corrosion/oxidation on the contacts!
RwP
#5
I HAVE CHANGED THE COIL, WIRES CAP AND ROTOR .I HAVE DONE A COMPRESSION CHECK WHEN COLD ALL ABOUT 130 LBS. I HAVE CHECKED THE SPLICE IT IS FINE. I HAVE CLEANED THE ECM TERMINALS .I DID DO A VALVE JOB ABOUT 5000 MILES BACK. I HAD IT AT A GARAGE AND IT WAS SHOWING A CHECK ENGINE CODE 22 .THEY THOUGHT THEY HAD RESOLVED THE PROBLEM BY REPLACING THE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR. THEY SAID IT WAS ACTING LIKE A CHOKE CAUSING THE ECM TO SEND EXCESS FUEL TO THE CYLINDERS. WHEN YOU FIRST START IT UP IN THE MORNINGS AND MANUALLY GIVE THE THROTTLE CABLE THE RPM JUMPS ALL OVER WON'T RESPOND TO THE THROTTLE ACTS LIKE IT IS NOT GETTING GAS AND BACKFIRING THROUGH THE MUFFLER. BUT AFTER A SHORT TIME AS IT WARMS UP SLIGHTLY IT RUNS PERFECTLY AND WON'T ACT UP AGAIN UNTIL THE FOLLOWING MORNING.I CAN ALMOST LIVE WITH IT .
#7
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#8
One more troubleshooting step - disconnect the battery (just the negative is fine), then using a 5/16" (IIRC, maybe 10mm) socket, take the big connector off and on six or seven times.
See how it runs from cold then.
It should kick out a 12 code after that.
Also, check the wiring to the ECT, make sure it's not cracked (I had to replace my connector due to that failing).
RwP
See how it runs from cold then.
It should kick out a 12 code after that.
Also, check the wiring to the ECT, make sure it's not cracked (I had to replace my connector due to that failing).
RwP
Last edited by RalphP; 10-11-2015 at 10:30 AM. Reason: This unit has a SBEC, not a SMEC, fixed instructions.