I'm back! and finally getting around to my 5.9 swap at that. Had a few setbacks and got screwed on my first motor, now have a muuuch nicer one lined up from a trusted friend. Long story short, motor is out of a 92-93 ram d250 Van. used as a church vehicle, and the reverend didn't have a lead foot. has 70k original and well maintained. Getting full 5.9 motor, harness, pcm, and transmission and all that still attached and in good running order. I have some go fast goodies, mainly a hot cam from Crower running .528 Lift, Headers and a ported TB.

My question, any of you guys with spiced up motors, might you know how far I can push the power until I start have problems and need a rebuild/Shift kit? Its a stock A518 auto stock with the 5.9.

 

first- this is the early 3 wire connector not the computer controlled trans - right?
there are two sizes of mainshafts
early parts will not work on the early shaft but late parts will strip on the early shaft- make sure of what you have before buying parts
Transgo reprogramming kit
100 plate plate type cooler- the 1 foot square one then half inch lines- oil proof rubber works fine- do this before hopping anything up or towing
if you rebuild do it like a diesel
early you can use the straight cut gears
late you can use the 15 degree helix gearsets in the OD
install the Diesel number of clutches and the Transgo OD Spring
depending on what is in the trans now you can build the front end like a 440- front end- then non OD part is old well known tech
do NOT try and build like a HEMI with 5 clutch plates
stock will take plenty of abuse unless you try and tow in OD
do that only with the straight cut diesel gearset or it gets expensive real quick- the thrust washers go out on the planataries then the planataries greanade
on the later big shaft just try and find a 47 and stick the guts in
converter
Continental Converter builds a good converter for trucks, needle bearings and braised fins etc reasonable priciing- they are in Inglewood CA- ask for Chris - he builds OEM for some of the biggest more expensive brand names and has a spin balancer- most don't they just static balance remeber balance is different on a 360 vs 318

 

Yes, knowing more details of the transmission and engine will help. Pre 92 A518's were completely hydraulicly controlled. 92-95 they are called 46rh, hydraulicly controlled with OD and the TCC computer controlled.

The 46rh is your best option for a Magnum engine which is what I'm assuming your installing due to calling it a 5.9 vs 360. "360 refers to the older style LA engines. The 5.9 Magnum engines were paired with the 46rh to begin with, so they will handle the power just fine. I did a 5.2 to 5.9 Magnum swap and kept my STOCK 46rh with no problems, even when I installed several performance parts.

 

Tanks for the info, I knew there was a way to put diesel gears in them but never saw that detailed of information so much appreciated for that.

Crazy you might be the best one to ask one this as your Grenade is near identical to what my truck is back before you did the 4x4 swap, you just had the V8 stock. As I posted I'm getting a full motor and trans out of a 92-93 van, complete with harness and pcm and everything. So it is a 46RH stock to a 5.9. I plan on spicing up the motor a bit with a .528 lift cam, 1.7 Harland Sharps, ported TB, possibly an M1 manifold if i can find one, headers and eventually new heads. I'm thinking about putting in a transgo kit but if I don't have to touch it I'd rather not. My other question for you Crazy is does the stock PCM hold up to mods like that or would it have to be flashed for putting in such a large cam? Also I do already know about the Intrepid fuel regulator swap and that will be included in the build.

 

As far as the pcm, stock will be okay for a few minor modifications, but the Mopar High-performance pcm is best, as it has better fuel maps for performance.

The Transgo kit does helps, by memory, it helps on shifting more than anything. Most transmission shops can install it for a decent price since it just deals with the valve body, which is removable.

 

If you get the big transgo "reprogramming kit" you get the Transgo tech line phone
It also gives you more lube flow especially if you go to larger hoses
you can install it yourself
I do not recommend leaving out the ball mod- makes lots of driveline clunk and really does not help anything
the in tank cooler is also restrictive- adds about 15 lbs backpressure
as for your Single board computer or SBC
The early one is NOT SBD II and is not easily modded/ flashed/ reprogrammed
look before you leap
I have one of the Direct Connection SBC's
you must run good premium fuel
It's not good for towing or rock crawling
lots of extra advance
pings on normal driving unless you are really on it
they are no longer available new AFIK
change your fuel filters

 

Alright so a transgo kit is recommended, I know the obd1 computers cant be tuned like the obd II, but we do have a link and a thread on here for having them flashed, although its kinda stupid expensive. My plan is to use my truck for towing / hotrodding. My main question is will the stock pcm handle the couple mods i'm planning or will that cam be too much for it? I know tracking down a mopar pcm is not an easy thing so if I can use the stock I'd much rather do that, as stated earlier the moapr one isn't good for towing, which i plan to do a good bit of.

 

I do a lot of towing
4 horse trailer
flatbed with Caddy
Boat
Use the stock computer
just use 1.7 rockers on the intakes only and be happy or send me a pm
you might have to go to FORD injectors
dbl check on forums on Piston to Valve clearance with that proposed lift
do the tranny cooling mods first
I put a transdapt oil filter adapter between trans and cooler
that way if the converter clutch goes away you do not trash your $100 cooler
BTW you can get good donor coolers from FORD trucks (find a V10 or 460 or RAM diesel
I run a radiator out of a 440 C body and Air Cond Condenser from a Van
I put tranny cooler between AC and Rad but there are other ways
I run the 9 blade mechanical fan (see service bulletin) which has less pitch than the noisy 7 blade early fan and a heavy duty clutch- the bulletin lists a clutch that engages at a higher temp than the early one which also cuts down on unnecessary engagement/ noise- all can be found at pick a part
I also have a pusher fan-BMW I think
It helps in stop and go and helps low speed AC
I have it turn off just short of 30 mph
put a big fan in front of your vehicle at idle on a hot day and watch your AC cold air temp drop (and AC pressure)

 

So that's you! Lol I've seen you post before about using the big C-body 4core rad and Ford Trans cooler. I couldn't remeber for the life eof me who is was haha. I've always been curious about that, did you have to modify the C-body rad at all or did it beat the odds and bolt in like stock? And that was actually my game plan to go to pull apart and find a Ford Trans cooler as they a huuuge compared to the stock stuff from Dodge. I have a stock auxiliary cooler for the v6 but it's teeny tiny. I may shoot you a pm tonight regarding some cam stuff.

Other question I'm pondering, I remember seeing somewhere the drive shaft between the 42rh and 46rh was a hair different. Any truth to that? Or will my stock driveshaft work without modification?

 

I don't remember the driveshaft being a problem
use only genuine factory or Dana-Spicer U joints
C body radiator was a bolt it with a few minor mods you have to adapt the shroud
I had to replace hood grille bumper due to a truck taking a side wise swipe across the front end which also got the stock radiator, fan, clutch, ac condenser etc
Imperial radiator is too big let me know if I should be looking for a pm
I'm NOT using the stock in radiator tran cooler but might if I was in a cold weather state.