my truck keeps dieing when I'm driving down the street. I found that it I shake the plug going into the ECU then you can hear the relay click. Then the truck will start.
. But lately it doesn't matter what I do. It takes a while to get it to click on again.
Has left me stranded for hours at a time.
Another thing I noticed was when this issue would start. The gas needle will drop to zero. Turn off key then back on then the needle will climb back up. If I step on the break light the grass needle will drop. If I turn on the park lights then sane thing would happen

 

Sounds like one of the grounds has failed. Also, I'd bet the wiring into the ECU needs to be cleaned and possibly contacts tightened up.

This is a "fun" (for small values thereof) thing to chase down; however, once it's fixed, it'll be fixed for years if it's actually fixed.

My suggestion? Grab a copy of the factory service manual (off Ebay if necessary!) and use it to show you where all the grounds are in the dash and around the ECU; then remove each one, clean the metal, clean the contact, and reattach.

RwP

 

I was thinking the samething. A ground or short somewere. I cleaned up the plug on the ECU. As there was a few times that I was able to shake the plug around untill I heard the relays clicking. Thought I had it fixed untill I got stranded again. Shaking the plug around made no difference after I cleaned it up. So now I plan on pulling the bed up and trace the wires. Test the relays. Change fuel filter, air cleaner,. Distributor cap,. Roter and put new plug wires and spark plugs. Doing all that because it needs it. When I took the distributor cap off. I was saprized it Evan ran. It was so bad. The roter almost had a hole woren threw it on top.
. When I have the bed pushed off to the side. I'm going to remove the old wires for a Trailer plug and rewire it. The old wires are just cut off and exposed. Might have something to do with my short. It would explain why the fuel gauge drops when you step on the breaks or turn on the parking lights. Just got the truck a few months ago. So I am slowly going threw and fixing and replacing things.
Thank you for your replies.

 

I started thinking about what I did to the truck right before this issue started. I remembered taking the window washer fluid reservoir off the inside finder to run some wires under it. Under one screw was two wires (ground wires). So decided to start with that as a reply said I had a bad ground. I also thought it was the same issue with the ground.
So I relocated the grounds and sanded the area for better contact. The truck fired right up after doing so. I have not drove it around yet. But if the problem is not fixed then I will have to trace wires. But I know the last time I tryed it was still shorted out. Now it's not and the truck fired up. So knowing that's the only thing I touched was those two ground wires. I'm confident that I fixed the issue.

 

My 1996 Dakota would die, I pull over, bang on the plastic cover of the ECU, get back in, start the motor and take off. Had to send the ECU in for repair/replacement to a place that does that either in Texas or Florida. For an extra $50 they will give you a liftetime guarantee. They sent the unit back to me and the symptoms were gone for about two years, then the same thing all over again. Sent the ECU unit back to them, they did their thing again, and sent it back to me. Been a another couple of years now and no problems ... yet. (I paid another $50 to extend the lifetime warranty). These ECU's don't last forever. Don't know if your problem is the same, but that is my experience for what it's worth. My parents purchased this vehicle new from the dealer and it has 280,000 miles on the odometer.

 

ya I'm starting to think it is a ECU problem. I changed the fuel filter. Fixed the bad ground for the fuel pump. Also changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor, and roter.
It started up just fine. Three times. Then the fourth time. it wouldn't start and hasn't started since.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on. But it just cranks and cranks no fire. Going to test the relays and check for spark next.
I also had a problem with the distributor tightening down all the way. The screws would get tight but you can still move it up and down 1/8 of an inch and side to side about the same. Seems like to much slop to me.
Really need to get it running for work. Got people waiting on me to take there Christmas lights down and haul off some yard depry.
Thank you all for your replys and feedback.

 

1/8" IS too much slop; you may have a worn distributor.

If it's Magnum based, you'll have even more fun since to get it set right takes some time with a DRB or equivalent; however, you can get darn close by hand.

(I've had to replace the one on my truck; but it has over 350,000 miles on the motor, a LOT of items are wearing out on it.)

RwP

 

I changed out my ignition switch (not key) and so far so good. I also changed the coil.

 

I also deleted my trailer wire. Causing havoc on the brake lights and such

 

its a brand new distributor,. Wires, plugs and roter.
Why I can't figure it out. It started three times just fine. But the fourth time it just cranks and cranks but no fire. Why would it start up a few times and not continue to start up?
Going to test everything tomarrow to see if I can trace down the problem. Got some carp & senser cleaner/starting spay I am going to try first. That way if it tryed to start then I know it's a fuel problem. I just put a new fuel filter on it too.