WOW 12.7 mpg? I never got that bad from my 5 speed 318 truck. The worst that truck ever got was 14.5 and that was towing a utility trailer with 2 heavy garden tractors on it and a bed full with 2 push mowers, a gas weed eater and a couple gas cans. Usually just bumming around mine got 18
and on a solid road trip I have gotten over 20 from it, my 92 with the same 318 with an auto trans and the very computer that was in my 5 speed truck is around 15-1/2 normally and gets 17 on a solid highway run and that's with a finicky trans that doesn't always like to shift into OD and stays in 3rd sometimes. I have a fresh rebuilt transmission and converter going in as soon as I can get my son to get his junk out of my way.

 

27 is "Injector # {ANY} output driver did not respond to the input signal".

According to http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html anyway.

RwP

 

I forget if you fixed the cam sensor but I found this YT vid on using a noid light to check the injector pulse.

 

A good friend told me about fifty years ago that there is about a 90% chance that any problem you encounter will be electrical or electronic. That truth has served me well over the years. I was wondering: Have you discovered the real source of the problem yet??

 

no not yet.

 

onemore94dak, I tried the cam sensor off my v6. (Its the same part number for the 318) I just rented a noid light set and found that all 8 injectors are pulsing. I am totally stuck again. Any other ideas?

 

If you have a scanner check the fuel sync. I don't have any more ideas right now.

 

I'm not sure what that means. How do I do it? What am I looking for?

 

What it does is control when the injectors get the signal to fire from the distributor. Factory spec is zero, some like to set it higher. Mine is +1 because I oculd not get it to stay at zero.
I have a link to instructions for doing it when you place a new cam- http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...uel%20Sync.pdf

And this set of instructions from the 2nd gen forum
Remove negative battery cable.
Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scantool.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-tuning-4.html

 

The fuel synchronization was a guess, but if you did not set it right when you built the motor it could help cause the code 51.
Assuming all things are still as they were when you started this thread.
Here is a link to a code interpreter. http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html
The codes you reported 45, 37, 32, 27, 51
Did you fix or resolve the trans codes 45 and 37? 32 EGR code even if the EGR is not working won't affect it much. Ralph's advice is good.
I'm looking at the 51 code as the problem now. This describes it and offers the O2 sensor as one possible source http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/faults/code-51-52.html
Also the description of code 51 on this page indicates low fuel pressure may cause it. I don't recall whether or not you resolved the fuel pressure issue. http://www.dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/...fault_code.htm

Based on this I would check the O2 sensor to see what it looks like and make sure the fuel pump is delivering consistent pressure at the right PSI.