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1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Battery or Alternator Questions?????

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  #1  
Old 04-25-2008, 11:43 AM
trbmbennett trbmbennett is offline
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Question Battery or Alternator Questions?????

Sorry if this is a easy question for others, but exactly how would I know if it is my battery or alternator that is bad. The vehicle won't start at all, no lights, accessories or anything. Thanks!
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Last edited by hydrashocker; 02-27-2009 at 08:47 PM..
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:59 PM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

I'm thinking connection problem.

You can take out the battery and have a parts store load test it to find out if it is good or not. Same thing with the alternator.

Most Auto Zones, Checker, or any large part company will do this service for free. I prefer Auto Zone.

By the way, no question is a stupid one if you don't know the answer to it.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:11 AM
01dakota440 01dakota440 is offline
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

here is how to tell if it is the bat or the alt. have someone jump start your truck, then unhook your battery. if your truck stays running without a battery then your alternator is fine.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:25 PM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

I had a problem once with my Trans-Am with the alternator working just fine until it got hot - it would do that if I was idling or moving slow, as long as I was moving the air kept it cool and working. The Voltmeter told me that, I would watch it go from it's normal 13/14 volt range to almost the bottom when I was sitting or moving slow - once I started moving a bit faster, it would move right back up again.

I'd definately get that battery tested first, if it's good - then the alternator. If both are showing good, take a real good look at the wires. A bad alternator can really cut a battery's life.

My T/A's sitting in the driveway right now with a bad battery --- and a good alternator, heh
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Old 04-29-2008, 06:49 PM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

Quote:
ORIGINAL: 01dakota440

here is how to tell if it is the bat or the alt. have someone jump start your truck, then unhook your battery. if your truck stays running without a battery then your alternator is fine.
Dude this is not advisable anymore. Overage goes into the battery to charge it. If you remove the battery the overage goes into the system. This is why it bogs the motor somewhat.

The ultimatum of this practice can raise hell with you computer as well as numerous other problems.

Just get it tested.
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:37 PM
01dakota440 01dakota440 is offline
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

first i'm not saying to just drive the truck around without a battery. just pull the negative cable and see if the truck stalls. second there is no such thing as overage, the alternator puts out the same voltage with the battery dead or full. thats what the voltage regulator is for. it keeps the voltave between 12 and 14 volts.
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:53 PM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

The engine takes it 12 volts. It takes 12.7 volts to equal 100% capacity. Therefore alternators make ahigher average of at least 12.7 volts up to 14.3 volts to adequately charge the battery. A voltage regulator is built into the alternator on our rigs. The regulator has a bleeder. Basically, the regulator is a gate on the system and blocks the outgoing voltage to 12 volts. The rest of the voltage is bled via the bleeder. This overage of voltage (bleeder) is directed into the battery by way of an open loop. This is how the battery gets charged. Remember this is an automotive battery. CCA's are needed to start a auto right?

If you take the battery out the overage has no wear to go. So it overloads the regulator. This overload even for a second can blow the regulator allowing all the voltage to enter the system. Thus blowing it!

I know what you meant by only for a second or two. But it doesn't matter.


ONLY HAVE IT TESTED!
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:53 PM
01dakota440 01dakota440 is offline
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

i'm sure if you take the time to reserch it a little more, you will find that the voltage regulator on our rigs is contained directly within the PCM.
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Old 05-02-2008, 11:09 AM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

Voltage regulator is in the alternator. There are many things the power rolls around other than the PCM. This voltage is regulated. Do a voltage test. Not to mention follow the wires.

If the voltage all went into the computer then how would your battery get charged with 14.3 Volts. It just can't happen. I think you need to do some research on this yourself.
[sm=chairshot.gif][sm=bicker.gif][sm=icon_beat.gif]

In older vehicles, this was a good idea to get you back on the road again. Not todays with high tech computers. I can see what you are talking about here, but you don't understand the whole picture.
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:47 PM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator


Quote:
ORIGINAL: 01dakota440

here is how to tell if it is the bat or the alt. have someone jump start your truck, then unhook your battery. if your truck stays running without a battery then your alternator is fine. *
LOL.
...Obviously flaw in that thinking...
The D won't run with a low battery worth a ****... simply try to get it to run without one at all.
Not calling you a noob but that was some bush league advise there man.

IndyD
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Old 05-03-2008, 08:12 AM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

Thanks Indy!
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Old 05-04-2008, 01:24 AM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

No problem HS. I got your back especially when you are catching flak for giving out correct advise. Thanks for the thanks!

IndyD
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:54 PM
01dakota440 01dakota440 is offline
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

wow this site is just full of chey mechanics. and if your d does not run with a low battery or without one at all then you have other problems. and if you would take the time and look at an electrical diaghram for that d you will see that the voltage regulator is contained directly withing the pcm. if you do not have access to these, i will gladly scan them and send them to you.
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Old 05-07-2008, 08:38 PM
jeff66 jeff66 is offline
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

I do believe 01dakota440 is right. The votage regulator is contained within thePCM. At least that's what my manual says. (Haynes #30022).

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Old 05-08-2008, 09:13 AM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

Dude there is a backup in the PCM.

Look at a diagram of the alternator. Look at the wiring. Look at the open loop. Now think about it for a second.

I have solved more problems with spikes than meets the eye here.

Quote:
wow this site is just full of chey mechanics. and if your d does not run with a low battery or without one at all then you have other problems.
Now they will run like ****! We never said it wouldn't run. Dude if ya don' believe me then take YOURS OFF. The electrial issues with our rigs backfires into the system. Put a bad battery in your rig and tell me the truck will run the same?????? Or remove YOUR CABLE and see how your truck runs.

Before you give advise, you might want to test this out on your own rig!

Now if you have something lets see it! And why you are at it look into the alternator! You can't base your argument between our "chey mechanics" unless you too have been around the block.

Now I'm not trying to discredit. But you need to read back through this thread and understand everything that was said.
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Old 05-08-2008, 11:17 AM
01dakota440 01dakota440 is offline
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

well i didn't have to do this but i did anyway. i started all of the 1st gen durangos and 2nd gen dakotas here at the shop, then pulled the battery on each one. and then drove each one about ten miles. i drove slow and fast, stopped and started. and gave each one a wholeshot run on the way back to the shop. not a single one missed a beat, backfired, or stummbled. but since hydrashocker is a moderator, he has final say on everything. i think this will be my post for this topic. oh and his buddy indyd did say "The D won't run with a low battery worth a ****... simply try to get it to run without one at all."

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Old 05-08-2008, 12:53 PM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

No my friend. I am not trying to argue. My words aren't the last ones.

So what you are saying is that you removed the battery or connections and ran the trucks. They ran like grand champions with no feed back like everyone else has had?

This is a bold move, but thanks for your intake. So did the trucks bog down a little when you removed the battery? I haven't known any vehicle that dosen't. I find this hard to swallow.

Also did you check the voltage? This is a bold move because these trucks that you tested your ideas on aren't yours. They sound like they are someones elses or soon to be. Glad I didn't buy it.

Now there have been many, many instances where this has came up and all of the trucks have been fixed and all that have this same problem. Low or bad batterys and other problems.

Now there is something you forgot. What vehical motors did you test, years, and what are they equipted with?
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:03 PM
01dakota440 01dakota440 is offline
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

all 7 vehicals are owned by my shop, all are 97-2001 daks/durangos with magnum v8s except one has a v6. and since we rebuild alternators here at the shop insted of buy new or remaned. i have put new bearings and brushes in quite a few of them. and i have never seen a regulator in a single one. here at my shop we only work on 1st gen durangos 2nd gen dakotas and rams that have the 3rd gen 5.2/5.9 engines. when your voltage regulator dies, you have to replace the pcm. that all there is to it. i have seen some people wire in an external regulator. and i you have a bog problem you should look into the exciter.
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:12 PM
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

hydrashocker, what "open" loop are you refering to? I'm looking in my Haynes and i'm not seeing any reference to an open loop.

In modern chrysler charging systems the field current (which i believe you are talking about) to the alternator is controlled by the PCM, this allows the alternator to produce power. this is alsoyour voltage regulator. Modern charging systems do not overproduce. They produce the required amount of power to operate all the electrical systems on the vehicle. the more demand ie. turning lights on, low battery the more power produced. less demand, less power produced. Putting the voltage regulator in the alternator is 80's and 90's tech.

I do agree that disconnecting the battery when the engine is running is not wise. I had a situation about a year ago where i had run my battery dead because i left a 12v cooler plugged in overnite, after jump starting it i had problems for the next 2 weeks with the vehicle doing weird things like dash lights flashing, doors locking and unlocking without being switched. It ended up being the battery. While replacing the battery i did notice that the engine would die when i disconnected the battery. Long story short, i learned that a low battery can cause problems. The PCM is sensitive to battery voltage. After putting a fresh battery in, no more problems.

Here is a great article on DIAGNOSING COMPUTER-CONTROLLED CHARGING SYSTEMS.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...9/ai_n21033508
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Old 05-08-2008, 05:00 PM
01dakota440 01dakota440 is offline
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Default RE: Battery or Alternator

thanks jeff66, i will fully agree with you. we are both new to this site, but that doesn't mean were new to working on things. oh and i to have had the vehical stall when battery was pulled, but a quick rebuild of the alternator, and it would run without at battery. and agian i'm not telling people to run their cars without a battery. and the reason to not undo the battery while the key is on, is that you may cause arcing. which could cause faults in the system
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Old 05-08-2008, 05:00 PM
 
 
 
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