Front end problems. I'm getting loud grinding and pop/snapping sounds from my front end drive train. So loud that I'm scared to drive the truck. I just finished opening up the front differential looking for a a reason for all the noise, I didn't see any broken gears or anything major. I'm more or less just trying to figure out how the front end drive train works. I see roller bearings inside the differential but the diff seams to be a little more then just the pumpkin. The front drive axles plug into an arm that stems from the pumpkin. It looks like the diff has a breather hose that moves up threw the engine built into that arm. I am getting a wet area around the end of that arm, And the whole area around seams to be wet which might say that a rotational seal might be blown. I had plenty of fluid inside the front diff when i took it apart so it might be more then just a seal. Does the differential's fluid pass outside the pumpkin into this arm?? Are there any bearings inside associated with this arm other the roller bearings inside the pumpkin?? I normally do a pretty good job finding problems with cars but this one has got me stumped.. Can anyone offer inside on how the front drive train on a 4x4 works or inside as to what this problem could be??

 

So I put it up on jacks and its only coming from the front right.. I get a lot of play in the wheel if i jiggle it (both vertically and horizontally), which would normally tell me its a ball joint but its most likely a wheel bearing. does anyone have a Chilton Manuel or something that could give some input on how to switch it out?? Anyone with similar issues?

 

Sounds like a bad hub assembly. I had a 97 1500 4x4 with the same play in the wheel. And the bearing was shot in the hub. This is a one piece unit. I am having similar noise (grinding) from my 02 durango but I don't have the play in the wheel. My noise started out above 45 mph about a month and a half ago; but has since got worse. Starts now at only 15-20 mph. I also put mine up on jacks and its coming from the front right; but I can't tell if its the CV joint or the hub.

 

Ball joints.

Upper- Remove tire. Undo the nut and carter pin on the ball joint. With a tie rod seporator, seporate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckel.If the ball joint has never been replaced then you have to grind the 3 rivets out that attach the ball joint to the arm. The replacement has bolts to replace the rivets. I like the ones at NAPA. Moog is good. Duralast is good too.

Replace the ball joint. Torque joint nut to about75 lbs. or as close as posible to insert carter pin. Replace carter pin. torque 3 smaller nuts to about 50-60 lbs. Replace tire. Get a 4 wheelaglinment!

Total time about 10 min.

Lower ball joint'sare mother F)(*^%er.

The uppers are what the recalls affected. I bet this is your problem but lowers could also be your problem. I doubt it's the bearing. Last thing, GET A CHILTON MANUAL!

 

P.S.

I bet you have water in the gears. Replace the lubricant. The breather should not be wet. You should have a small cap on the end of the breater tube to help water and debree from going into the tube then into the case.

 

Took it apart to check the whole thing out. all the play was where the wheel connected to the drive shaft not in the hub assembly. It ended up being the wheel bearing. It was alot easier then i thought it might be. 3 bolts holding it on in the rear + the wheel nut. looked at the bearings inside and they looked like little pebbles. Supprised the wheel didnt lock up. only 100 bucks and the truck is burnin gas again. Thanks hydra

 

SumAmerican,

The "wetness" you saw on the right arm of the pumkin (differential) is most likely a failing seal. When the fluid escapes itgets flung all over the place as the axle spins so Yes, the fluid extendsinto that arm. In order to change that seal out you have to:

First get parts, seals are$8-$12 a piece - One for each side and the back, 3 total.

1) Loosen lug nuts andhub nut of front passenger wheel.

2) Jack up passenger side of vehicle.

3) Take wheel and hub nut off.

4) Take the differential cover off and drain the gear oil - There's no gasket for this, just RTV sealant, so make sure both surfaces are clean when you reapplynew RTV before putting it back on!

5) Remove the CV Half Shaft (the thing w/ 2 rubber boots) -This involves6 or 7 bolts + the hub nut.

6)Remove the retaining clip on the ring and pinion gear inside of differential, the right tools (like a bent arm needle nose pliers) make this MUCH easier. Nevertheless, getting it off is easier than getting it back on.

7) Slide the axle out of the arm - Make sure there are no grooveson thisspindle where the seal was rubbing.The seal is molded around a springthat insures a tight fit. When the seal rubber wears through, the metal spring begins to make direct contact with the axle shaft.Use a fine grade emery cloth to make sure the axle surface isas smooth as possible.

8) Remove old seal (located at the external endof the arm) by carefully prying it out with a screwdriver or small pry bar - Be careful not to nick the mating surfaces at any point of this procedure!

9) Tap in the new seal with a large socket or some other round object that will not damage the mating surfaces.

10) Blast the inside of the pumpkin with brake cleaner to get any debris out of there.

11) Reverse these steps starting at #7 above and you'll be all set - Don't forget to refill with gear lube!

Note #1: For the driver's side, you do not have to remove the CV Half Shaft from the wheel bearing as the ring spindle is much shorter and doesn't need as muchclearance to pull it out.

Note #2: If you're going to do the pinion seal (located on the back ofthe front differential) where the the front axle meets the pumpkin make sure to BE AWARE that there is a metal dust cover that needs to be retained as the new seal does not come with this piece.

Hope this helps!
TVB