Many issues regarding this same situation have been cleared up by this. Many users have completed this and learned from it including myself. If you think that the others will work then more power to ya. I'm not here to steer ya wrong, just want to help ya, that's all.

It is better to remove the TB and sensors and fully spray it out with carb cleaner. Use the tube included on the can to spray out all ports. Clean all the sensors that you can and reinstall. Remember to look down the intake manifold and look for accumulation of oil while the TB is off. Also you should use a new TB gasket during replacement. Gasket sealant is not needed, but I still like to use a VERY SMALL amount to insure no leaks.

Try one step at a time.

 

the misfire was still there, even after immediately changing my wires. I dont see how a misfire can cause a DTC of injector circuit malfunction though.

 

so a dirty throttle body can cause me to get a DTC of injector circuit malfunction? This durango has me really confused. I've never worked on a dodge before and its drivin me nuts. I suppose the TB could be dirty, its got 150k miles on it. It also has a gibson catback exhaust and a S&B cold air intake. It also has a Hypertech reflash. This was all done 2 years ago, so I doubt its the cause of any problems.

 

Did the P0305 code still pop up?

 

P0205 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 5
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

Both of these problems are the same cylinder. I don't understand while in the first post you related them to 5 and 6.

Back to the problem:
A dirty TB or bad sensor can cause the engine to run badly and trip a code. The problem here is #5. Replace the tune-up parts with the ones suggested for your FINIKY 5.9L and let’s start from there. If you install something like you said about the wires please tell us what you did and what kind they are.

Regardless, if all parts are replaced like they NEED to be then all you are doing is making sure that everything is in great shape. This will help you even if they might not be the problem. Sometimes you have to do a little weeding.

The issues you describe have been described many times here. And many times fixed with the suggestions us users recommend because we love these machines and know how they work. Now either there is a spark issue which you can rule out by following the directions we have told you or shown links on "Do It Yourself" or an injector. Other than that a compression check to test the cylinder for leakage could be your next choice. Then I would suggest we go from there.

 

I first got the P0305, THEN AFTER DOING PLUGS AND WIRES, I reset the computer, and P0305 was gone, but I had a P0205 and P0206, not P0305 anymore

 

I still find it hard to believe that spending another 60 bucks for auto zones wires cap and rotor instead of my napa stuff will fix anything. I'm really not trying to be a dick here, but this whole project and troubleshooting goes against all the basic automotive knowledge I've ever learned. I've done all the basics and have gotten nowhere. I will get the alternator and battery load tested, and I will check fuel pressure. Is it worth my money to get the injectors flow tested/spray pattern tested to make sure they are all good? What would be a good compression number to see on a 5.9 with 150k miles? I know they should all be relatively even between all 8 cylinders, otherwise I could have a head gasket issue.

 

The last time I checked the "D" dealership charged $75 to check the car out and then applied that $75 to bill, so it was like I never paid for the check up. just the service...

So if you get the fuel pressure tested, or injectors checked it will be free if you have any service done the check up is free.

So that's One code out of the way.
On to the next...

 

well fuel pressure check is something I will do myself. As far as injectors go, my friend owns an injector rebuilding shop and would charge me a small fee to test them, but I dont wanna pull them all out and waste time if they arent my issue.

 

You don't want to use Auto Zone wires. You want to use the dealership (OEM) wires or if you want performance then let me recommend MSD and get the 8.5 mm wires that are red in color. The cap and rotor can be bought at Auto Zone but you want to upgrade to the ones with Brass Contacts. Next are the plugs. Get regular Champions spark plugs gapped at .040 This is OEM.

As for compression, none should be below 120 psi. 150 psi through 160 psi is great! Doing this there are some tricks you can perform to figure out what the problem is. If you have a low cylinder then try this:

After checking compression on a low cylinder add 2 good cap full's of oil directly into the spark plug threaded holes in the head so that the oil flows into the cylinder. If the compression goes up on that cylinder when a new test is done then assume it's the rings and a bottom end rebuild is needed. If it stay's the same pressure or very close to it then it's in the head. Remember to disconnect the coil while performing this test so you don't start the motor and it just cranks over.

But again I think you need to go back to the basics on this problem. You are saying a few other things now (on codes) and I’m going for a spark issue. (sorry)

Once we get the issue's under control, then we can play with it if ya want.