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P0205 DTC on a 99 Durango

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Old 09-26-2008, 08:14 PM
88Nightmare 88Nightmare is offline
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Default P0205 DTC on a 99 Durango

So let me start this from the beginning.... 1999 Durango 5.9 4x4, started getting a intermittent misfire, and threw code P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire). So I did plugs and wires, and it ran perfect. Next day I did an oil change, started it up, and it ran like pure ****. So I did the cap and rotor. Still ran like crap. I cleared all codes and let it run a little while, and then it threw codes P0205 and P0206, injector circuit malfunction cylinder 5 and 6 respectively.

So here is what I have done so far:

While it was running, I pulled injector clips off one at a time and put a test light on the hot side to make sure it was getting power, which they all were. Then I used my multi-meter to see how much power I was getting, and while it would fluctuate, they would all stay around 10-13 volts... seemed good, all clips were getting the same amount of power. Next I checked resistance on the actual injector with everything off, and each injector got about 13.75 ohms. Also seemed good. Just to cover bases, I took valve covers off and checked for broken or fractured valve springs, and those all checked out good too. I wasn't able to push on the rockers and compress any springs by hand so I'm guessing they are good for 150k miles on the ticker. So what do I do next? Do I pull all my fuel injectors out and get them flow tested/spray pattern tested? Or should I find someone with a similar truck and try their computer out to make sure my computer isnt failing?

Some other questions:

What other computers (from what other dodge trucks) will work in my 1999 Durango 5.9? Are computers plug and play, or do they need to be programmed to my truck by a dealer? What else can I do to fix this horrible misfire?
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  #2  
Old 09-26-2008, 10:40 PM
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idk about any other computers(except other durangos w/ same engine/tranny combo) and i think that it would need to be reflashed by the dealer
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:26 PM
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Test the alternator for voltage output and also load test the battery. Auto zone will do this for free while on the truck. It take's 2 min.

Fuel pump? Do a presure test. There should be about 50 lbs if I remember right.

What plugs, wires, and dist cap did you buy? (be specific)
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:30 PM
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PCM. Yes there are some upgrades out there that you can send your to them over night and they will send it back the next day.

http://www.bgperformancepcm.com/

Also Mopar sels a performance PCM
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Old 09-27-2008, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrashocker View Post
PCM. Yes there are some upgrades out there that you can send your to them over night and they will send it back the next day.

http://www.bgperformancepcm.com/

Also Mopar sels a performance PCM
Thanks for the link Hydro... I have been looking into such an upgrade.
  #6  
Old 09-27-2008, 01:42 PM
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No problem dude.

They have a great upgrade but be careful because they don't guarantee that your truck will pass emissions. I haven't seen one that doesn't, but they have a discloser. In reality, they have to list it anyway to protect themselves. But like I said, "I haven't seen a problem".
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:13 AM
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the plugs are basic copper autolites

wires, cap and rotor are napa brand.

I'm new to dodge stuff, so where on the fuel system can I tap in and do a fuel pressure test? Does the battery and alternator NEED to be load tested, or can I just put my multi-meter on the alternator and see what its puttin out? I know they can fail, but the battery is a little over a year old.
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Old 09-28-2008, 02:34 PM
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Take what you can back. This is what you want for your finiky 5.9L.

Regular Champion plugs gapped .040 (these are the $1.50 regular plugs)
OEM wires or for performance MSD 8.5mm wires.
Cap and Rotor (get the upgraged Brass Contacts) Auto Zone works.
Fully clean the TB and sensors with some carb cleaner.

On the drivers side of the fuel rail is a cap covering a port that you can test the fuel pressure. The battery acually needs a load test but if you check it should read 12.7 volts. Alternator needs to be tested because you can read the volts but amprage is hard to read. Your alternator should read at least about 122 amps. but no more than 136 amps. Remember to turn everything off when testing. I find it easyer just to take it to an Auto Zone for the 3 minute check that doesn't involve anything but opening the hood for em and standing back. Not to mention it's FREE!
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Old 09-29-2008, 12:01 PM
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Not that I'm disagreeing with you, but its slightly unbelievable to me that an engine will run like complete horse**** with a different brand of plugs and wires. I don't think I can return them anymore, they've already been installed and have been driven with em installed a little bit. I would just go drop the additional $50 bucks to get all new stuff, but I just can't picture that being my problem. I will however go get the alternator and battery tested, and clean the TB. Do I have to remove the TB from the manifold, or can I clean it right on there and just open up the throttle plate? Maybe get in there with a soft toothbrush or somethin?
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:54 PM
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http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#CleanTB How to clean your TB sensor
http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#CleanIAC How to clean your IAC solenoid
http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm#TPS_Mod how to set TPS voltage correctly.
Guys please follow these steps, they are free!!!! compliments of D.F.If followed correctly they should solve issues with rough Idling and throttle response time.

The issue with the plugs and wires is not one to take for granted for more info search for spark plugs in durango or 2 gen dak

I know that I burnt up my wires by laying then on the engine, thus causing miss fires in 3 out of 8 cylinders. Yeah the check engine light came on. you can feel the miss fires when the wires are on the engine. so if you just bought new wires or still have the old ones. look at the spots that are laying on the metal parts of engine. in many cases both the engine and wires will have burnt spots, thus creating your miss fires. the wires are no good after that, but the miss fires will lighten up if the wires are no linger touching the metal parts of the engine
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Last edited by DRO318; 09-29-2008 at 05:07 PM.. Reason: words
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Nightmare View Post
Not that I'm disagreeing with you, but its slightly unbelievable to me that an engine will run like complete horse**** with a different brand of plugs and wires. I don't think I can return them anymore, they've already been installed and have been driven with em installed a little bit. I would just go drop the additional $50 bucks to get all new stuff, but I just can't picture that being my problem. I will however go get the alternator and battery tested, and clean the TB. Do I have to remove the TB from the manifold, or can I clean it right on there and just open up the throttle plate? Maybe get in there with a soft toothbrush or somethin?
Many issues regarding this same situation have been cleared up by this. Many users have completed this and learned from it including myself. If you think that the others will work then more power to ya. I'm not here to steer ya wrong, just want to help ya, that's all.

It is better to remove the TB and sensors and fully spray it out with carb cleaner. Use the tube included on the can to spray out all ports. Clean all the sensors that you can and reinstall. Remember to look down the intake manifold and look for accumulation of oil while the TB is off. Also you should use a new TB gasket during replacement. Gasket sealant is not needed, but I still like to use a VERY SMALL amount to insure no leaks.

Try one step at a time.
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:50 AM
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the misfire was still there, even after immediately changing my wires. I dont see how a misfire can cause a DTC of injector circuit malfunction though.
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrashocker View Post
Many issues regarding this same situation have been cleared up by this. Many users have completed this and learned from it including myself. If you think that the others will work then more power to ya. I'm not here to steer ya wrong, just want to help ya, that's all.

It is better to remove the TB and sensors and fully spray it out with carb cleaner. Use the tube included on the can to spray out all ports. Clean all the sensors that you can and reinstall. Remember to look down the intake manifold and look for accumulation of oil while the TB is off. Also you should use a new TB gasket during replacement. Gasket sealant is not needed, but I still like to use a VERY SMALL amount to insure no leaks.

Try one step at a time.
so a dirty throttle body can cause me to get a DTC of injector circuit malfunction? This durango has me really confused. I've never worked on a dodge before and its drivin me nuts. I suppose the TB could be dirty, its got 150k miles on it. It also has a gibson catback exhaust and a S&B cold air intake. It also has a Hypertech reflash. This was all done 2 years ago, so I doubt its the cause of any problems.
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Old 09-30-2008, 08:54 AM
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Did the P0305 code still pop up?
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Old 09-30-2008, 09:25 AM
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P0205 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 5
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

Both of these problems are the same cylinder. I don't understand while in the first post you related them to 5 and 6.

Back to the problem:
A dirty TB or bad sensor can cause the engine to run badly and trip a code. The problem here is #5. Replace the tune-up parts with the ones suggested for your FINIKY 5.9L and let’s start from there. If you install something like you said about the wires please tell us what you did and what kind they are.

Regardless, if all parts are replaced like they NEED to be then all you are doing is making sure that everything is in great shape. This will help you even if they might not be the problem. Sometimes you have to do a little weeding.

The issues you describe have been described many times here. And many times fixed with the suggestions us users recommend because we love these machines and know how they work. Now either there is a spark issue which you can rule out by following the directions we have told you or shown links on "Do It Yourself" or an injector. Other than that a compression check to test the cylinder for leakage could be your next choice. Then I would suggest we go from there.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:39 AM
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I first got the P0305, THEN AFTER DOING PLUGS AND WIRES, I reset the computer, and P0305 was gone, but I had a P0205 and P0206, not P0305 anymore
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:43 AM
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I still find it hard to believe that spending another 60 bucks for auto zones wires cap and rotor instead of my napa stuff will fix anything. I'm really not trying to be a dick here, but this whole project and troubleshooting goes against all the basic automotive knowledge I've ever learned. I've done all the basics and have gotten nowhere. I will get the alternator and battery load tested, and I will check fuel pressure. Is it worth my money to get the injectors flow tested/spray pattern tested to make sure they are all good? What would be a good compression number to see on a 5.9 with 150k miles? I know they should all be relatively even between all 8 cylinders, otherwise I could have a head gasket issue.
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:12 AM
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The last time I checked the "D" dealership charged $75 to check the car out and then applied that $75 to bill, so it was like I never paid for the check up. just the service...

So if you get the fuel pressure tested, or injectors checked it will be free if you have any service done the check up is free.

So that's One code out of the way.
On to the next...
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Old 10-02-2008, 12:15 AM
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well fuel pressure check is something I will do myself. As far as injectors go, my friend owns an injector rebuilding shop and would charge me a small fee to test them, but I dont wanna pull them all out and waste time if they arent my issue.
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Nightmare View Post
I still find it hard to believe that spending another 60 bucks for auto zones wires cap and rotor instead of my napa stuff will fix anything. I'm really not trying to be a dick here, but this whole project and troubleshooting goes against all the basic automotive knowledge I've ever learned. I've done all the basics and have gotten nowhere. I will get the alternator and battery load tested, and I will check fuel pressure. Is it worth my money to get the injectors flow tested/spray pattern tested to make sure they are all good? What would be a good compression number to see on a 5.9 with 150k miles? I know they should all be relatively even between all 8 cylinders, otherwise I could have a head gasket issue.
You don't want to use Auto Zone wires. You want to use the dealership (OEM) wires or if you want performance then let me recommend MSD and get the 8.5 mm wires that are red in color. The cap and rotor can be bought at Auto Zone but you want to upgrade to the ones with Brass Contacts. Next are the plugs. Get regular Champions spark plugs gapped at .040 This is OEM.

As for compression, none should be below 120 psi. 150 psi through 160 psi is great! Doing this there are some tricks you can perform to figure out what the problem is. If you have a low cylinder then try this:

After checking compression on a low cylinder add 2 good cap full's of oil directly into the spark plug threaded holes in the head so that the oil flows into the cylinder. If the compression goes up on that cylinder when a new test is done then assume it's the rings and a bottom end rebuild is needed. If it stay's the same pressure or very close to it then it's in the head. Remember to disconnect the coil while performing this test so you don't start the motor and it just cranks over.

But again I think you need to go back to the basics on this problem. You are saying a few other things now (on codes) and I’m going for a spark issue. (sorry)

Once we get the issue's under control, then we can play with it if ya want.
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Last edited by hydrashocker; 10-02-2008 at 09:12 AM..
Old 10-02-2008, 08:44 AM
 
 
 
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