Longevity & Power Of Your Rig!

[andyg]

Here is a calculator to go from static to dynamic given that you know all the specs it needs. http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

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[DRO318]

This all sounds good but should the PCM be flashed to mach the new setup? or will it automatically adjust it self.
This is a valid question seeing as the compression will be larger.
After the rebuild is it best to stick with stock ignition or better off going up to MSD. I heard they make great distributors.

[andyg]

Depending on how drastic the changes you make, the computer might be fine but most likely it will throw codes all day. I would recommend that with any actual mechanical modification, get the computer re-flashed. I don't know anything about the capacity of the oem computers to know if an aftermarket ignition will be needed.

I know of people running old school distributors with extreme changes its all in your tuning abilities. Or the shops abilities where you take it.

[DRO318]

Yeah Hydra is runnin MSD on his "D"
I wonder if any of the top name Ignition Companies have made a distributor for the 5.2 and 5.9
And are there any sensors that should be changed?

[andyg]

I believe that you don't change the sensors, you change the components that interpret what the sensors tell.

[DRO318]

So your sayin don't worry about the sensors that have not been changed in 100k + miles?

[andyg]

I guess you could change them if you are very active on preventative maintenance. The ones on my D havent given issues for 171,000 miles and counting.

[hydrashocker]

The OEM distributor will do fine for this mod. The only thing I would say to do different is add a MSD Blaster coil, wires, cap & rotor, and gap .001 to.002 over OEM.

If your crankshaft sensor is bad you would know it. I don't thing you would need a new one. Now if you did a rebuild, added new cam gearing, distributor gearing, then you are getting precise so you would want to do a sensor to ensure a great fire.

As for doing a full Mallory Ignition I don't think for this type of moding that it would be necessary.

[hydrashocker]

As for the PCM:

You would not need to flash it because the build I am talking about is close enough to specs. A performance tune would be great.

If you want a true tune for the PCM a dino would be needed for perfection. I think the SCT tuners will dino at a dealer but unshore?

Two tuners are updateable and they are the Hypertech Max and the STC.

[hydrashocker]

I found this in this mornings Deseret Paper (Utah Rides) but could not find a link to it so I typed the artical so here it is!


The parts Dept crew recently built and tested a 5.9-leter (360-cubic inch) that made 527 horsepower at 6300 rpm using a Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake manifold (as well as a matching cylinder heads and a healthy roller camshaft. The peak horsepower and torque output (474 ft) compared with the larger 7.0-leter engine found in the benchmark Chev Corvette ZO6. It’s actually a very basic pump-gas-friendly combination (9.8:1 compression) that performed better than it did using a race-bred intake manifold in terms of peak power while delivering more torque and using less fuel in the process. What could be better? The NASCAR Edition Performer RPM Air Gap, of course, which has a smooth black finish as opposed to the usual rough cast finish. The special manifold is available for Chev, Ford, and Chrysler applications. Visit www.edelbrock.com


http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/manifolds/chrysler/rpm_air_gap-sb.shtml


Now this is what I'm talking about here guy's and a very close match I might add! The problem here is octane I would assume.

I was far off on the compression on my motor tho so my bad.