Originally Posted by wham

Got to do this on my 1996 1500 SLT with 5.2. Anybody tell me what the differences or similarities are as far as the removable fender "peep hole" or any other difference I might run into.

thanks,
Tim H.

Originally Posted by professionalsql

I also have to compliment the effort - very helpful. My minor comments:

The wire from the key switch is a plug for some years/starters (mine is a '99), so you may not need the 8mm. The key on these is to release the plug lock in two steps: Release the red slider (something of a lock to the lock), and then press the release while pulling the plug away. In this configuration, it looks almost exactly like the example provided by hydra, but it is just a tension lock rather than a nut holding it on.

The angle is difficult for getting on the feed from the battery. I found that a smaller ratchet (a 1/4") with a knuckle (aka a universal joint) really did the trick for handling that nut.

For me, the top mounting nut was pretty much immovable. I used some thread eaze and tried several different options, but the angle into the nut provided very little choice for gaining leverage. In the end, I was able to position a 3/8 ratchet with a 5" extension on it, then feed a breaker bar over the ratchet by guiding the breaker bar through the driver's side wheel well. It was tough getting enough room to work, but after a surprisingly loud "crack", the bolt game loose.

I also had a bit of trouble breaking the bottom mounting nut free. For this one I got a bit creative since there was even less room to work with. I used a simple box wrench (which was short enough to move in the space), and wound up placing a floor jack under it with a round piece of pipe pushing against the end of the wrench. In just a few pumps of the floor jack, the bottom bolt was loose.

Thanks again for the guide. I had enough of a fight with mine as it was - I can't imagine if I hadn't had this for a primer.

Originally Posted by hydrashocker

12. There is the transmission shifting cable that runs through this area so be aware.

13. Hold the starter up and fully remove the upper bolt. Note: The starter/coil is HEAVY so beware!

14. Now the starter can be taken out through the opening between the frame and the body directly above the brake balancer. Great care should be taken when doing this to ensure NO damage occurs with any contact between the two. Take it easy. You will have to pull the plastic wheel well towards you and do some fancy moving to get it out. I tried for hours to find a different way to remove it from the vehicle and this is how you can remove it and install. Take a look at the pictures of me installing the new one for directions and procedures on removing the old one in order. Installing sequence will be in reverse order so look at this careful!

Attachment 111915

Attachment 111916

Attachment 111917

Attachment 111918

Attachment 111919

15. Remove old starter.

16. Now it is best to install a NEW starter and get one with a lifetime warranty from your choice of auto parts warehouse. I am against Remanufactured Starters/Coils because I have had them go out a lot but each to their own. But some come with a lifetime warranty so just know that you might do this again. Right now the only one I could get was a remanufactured one so of course I’m installing a different one 50k miles latter. But it had a lifetime warranty. Oh Well……..

17. Check both starters to ensure that it is a direct replacement.

Attachment 111920

18. On the top of the Starter Housing and under the Coil you will notice a medium sized rubber boot that covers the Starter Lead Wire from the coil. It covers a wire with a lug style connection that is covered by the boot. During installation the rubber boot can be pulled back and expose the connection so ensure after installation that it is covering the connection. You can’t see this connection but you can see the wire on the bottom barely, which is being pointed to.

19. Pull the plastic wheel well covering back and place the starter in the area like shown above and install in the correct order as shown above.

20. Clean wire leads before installing them on the new starter to ensure a great connection. Torque Starter Dog Ear Mounting Bolts to 50 ft. lbs. and tighten the wire leads to 120 in. lbs.

21. Here's what you should end up with.

Attachment 111921

Originally Posted by 00DurangoKY

I have a 2000 Durango 5.2 and it was much easier than this method. There was no obstruction below the starter. I dropped it straight out the bottom, although I did use the peep hole to reach the top bolt.

Im not sure why the discrepancy, but it was a snap.