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1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

2002 Durango Rear End Exploded

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Old 03-02-2009, 04:06 AM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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Default 2002 Durango Rear End Exploded

I live in Guam - which is pretty hard on our vehicles and makes repairs pretty difficult. My wife was driving our 2002 Durango when it came to a hard stop - the driveshaft rolled down the street. The pinion exploded through the front of the bell housing. It is now halfway out the hole with the other half lodged pretty solidly under the ring with metal everywhere.

The guys who towed it to my house said I'd need a new third member, the gears, and the housing. Wanted $3K for the parts. Said $2K for used + labor. I talked to my dad who is a mechanic, and he says it doesn't have a 3d member - no bolts on the front of the housing - just the ones on the back holding the cover on. I've never heard 3d member before so I'm not sure and my dad is a looooong way away.

Called another place today and to get a differntial assembly, it'll run 1700 plus shipping. I've found entire rear ends in the states online for $750, so it seems extreme to pay that much for a differential assembly. Is this way too much, or about right?

Also, I've looked through the manual and it says the axle shafts are pressed and welded into the assembly making one solid assembly. If so, can I use just the differntial assembly they are trying to sell me?

It's not going to be our vehicle for much longer...but I have to get it moving so I can sell it. What's the cheapest route to get this thing going again? Replace rear end, just the differential? If I do the rear end, I can do the labor myself - if I get just the differential, is that a job I can still do myself - or better for a garage? I'm not a complete newbie - I've worked on engines - but not drivelines.

Thanks for any input - I've never had a rear end blow up on me before.

2002 Dodge Durango - 9.25 / 3.55 ratio.
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2009, 09:02 AM
jpdeuce jpdeuce is offline
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Cheapest route will depend on shipping and what you can find out there. In my opinion, your cheapest route is swapping a similar rear end. Axles are cake to swap, as compared to complex engine work or electrical work. If you just find/purchase the guts, you will need an axle guy to rebuild it for you. If you find a complete rear end, you drop the axle/suspension, swap axles, bolt everything back up, and connect drive shaft. Assuming you bought a decent rear end, should be done after that (maybe some new fluid).

But this will totally depend on what you have available to you. I would bet certain dodge trucks and other dodge SUVs could be donors for your new rear end as well.
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:05 AM
Duranged408 Duranged408 is offline
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My honest opinion is that you should find a another used axle and just swap. It's easier to drop the leaf springs, unbolt the U-bolts/joints/brake lines, swap the axle and reconnect than it would be to rebuild the differential and alot cheaper.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:31 PM
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You can rebuild it.

MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT GEARING if you go a used axel housing and gearing from a junk yard or such.

The axels are not pressed in to the gearing. After you pull the cover off you can see that there are locking rings holding them into the gears. You take off the snap rings and unbolt the axels at the wheel and the axels will pull out.

I did a write up about this. I can't find it right now but I will look into it! You can search with my name and "axel" to try to find it.
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:06 PM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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Thanks guys - yeah I read your write up. I did a search for differentials and read every page. Lots of info!

I found a salvage yard that has a rear end for $550 w/ a warranty - but shipping is going to run that up. But it's still cheaper than what I can find here on the island.

I had an extended warranty that would have covered this back in the states, but since the breakdown happened here, it's not covered.

I took the back cover off and I see how it connects in there, just didn't understand what I read in the manual. I can't even move the vehicle because the pinion is lodged in there tight keeping it from moving.

Thanks again for the help and the sanity check
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:18 PM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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Question answered...at least for my purposes...

Dimensions: 4*4 pallet - 225lbs.

Last edited by DHarris75; 03-02-2009 at 06:56 PM.. Reason: Question Answered by Salvage Yd
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:54 PM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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Couple of more questions about my rear end -

1) What year rear ends are comp with the 2002 9.25 rear end? They have some 98-99 Dakotas on island that I may be able to use, but the yards don't know about the rear ends...so I have to go look.

2) My Durango has the 3.55 gears. Can I upgrade to the 3.92s, or would I need to change out the front end as well (4WD)?

Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:28 PM
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To upgrade you would have to switch out the front end as well to 392's.

I found this: https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/cat...5-Axle-(Rear)/

Chrysler 9.25 Axle (Rear)

12 bolt rear cover with 9.25" ring gear. Uses c/clip axles with have 31 splines.
  • Ring Gear Diameter: 9.25
  • Ring Gear Bolts: (12) 7/16 X 18 RH
  • Cover Bolts: 12
  • Carrier Breaks: 2.76 / 3.07
  • Spline Count: 1.625 / 28
  • Float: SF
  • Semi-Float Type:
  • Pinion Support: False
  • Axle Lugs: 5 and 8
Compatible with Models:
  • 1 Ton Chrysler Van: 1978 - 2003 (Rear)
  • 1/2 Ton Chrysler Van: 1970 - 2004 (Rear)
  • 1/2 Ton Dodge Pickup: 1974 - 2006 (Rear)
  • 3/4 Ton Chrysler Van: 1974 - 2002 (Rear)
  • 3/4 Ton Dodge Pickup: 1974 - 1999 (Rear)
  • Dakota: 1988 - 2005 (Rear)
  • Durango: 1998 - 2004 (Rear)
  • Fifth Avenue: 1973 - 1981 (Rear)
  • Imperial: 1974 - 1975 (Rear)
  • Monaco: 1975 - 1985 (Rear)
  • Polara: 1970 - 1974 (Rear)
  • Ram Charger: 1974 - 1993 (Rear)
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:29 PM
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I would go with a Limited Slip if ya can!
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:47 PM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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Great info!!

Thanks...
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHarris75 View Post
Couple of more questions about my rear end
Let's just keep this talk about your Durango, ok?

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Originally Posted by DHarris75 View Post
2) My Durango has the 3.55 gears. Can I upgrade to the 3.92s, or would I need to change out the front end as well (4WD)?
It depends. Do you want to use 4WD? If you just want this thing running, you could run without the front drive shaft and put whatever you want in the rear.

Also, to get it moving, you just need to get the gears out right? You don't need it hooked up. Just clear that crap out of there and run in 4WD on the front by itself. I wouldn't run far on that, but it should get you moving. You are either gutting it or replacing it anyway, so just clear out the diff however you can.
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Old 03-03-2009, 03:32 AM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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Problems:

1) I can't clear out my rear differential - the pinion is jammed in very tight at the bottom of the ring. But if I jack up the back, I can roll both tires (they roll together if that means anything).

2) So since the back wheels will roll, I tried to find out why I can't push move the thing. So I jacked up the front and the wheels are locked. The 4WD was disengaged when the breakdown happened. Now I'm worried maybe I have a problem with my front end as well?

I tried to take the driveshaft off the front, but I can't get the bolts off with my hand tools. I wanted to start it up and see if it'll move at all (was going to go real easy...by feel). But the battery is dead so I have to jump it later.

Is this a good/bad idea? I obviously know not to put it in gear and take off, but I wanted to put a little leverage on it to try and see what is going on.

So I KNOW I need a rear end - pinion punched hole through casing - so that's a done deal. What I wonder now is did something else lock up and that caused the damage in the back - or did the back lock up causing something to go wrong up front? Well, more work tomorrow.
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Old 03-03-2009, 10:55 AM
jpdeuce jpdeuce is offline
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When the back wheels roll, do you see anything moving in the diff? Axles turning? Gears turning? Anything?

Did you jack the front up and try to turn them with everything in neutral and out of gear? Nothing in gear, 4wd disengaged, etc...?

You are going to have to get that rear diff cleared out sometime in order to rebuild it (if you aren't going with the complete donor swap method)...so you might as well figure that out. Chances are, if you can figure out how to remove the drive shafts, you can roll it wherever you want, so that is an option as well. If you just need to move it around the garage and stuff, or out to the driveway, you can always get a decent set of vehicle dollies that go under each wheel. They make moving vehicles around a breeze.
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Old 03-03-2009, 04:09 PM
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Blah Blah Blah!

This is going now where fast...... I would bet that your transfer case wasn't fully out and the drive lines were locked even tho you were out YOU WERE IN!

Lift the front wheels and and roll the wheels backward and this should take the bind out of the front end enough to get it to moving. I bet with the axel bind the pinion gear was the week point and blew.

First thing first. Get that front end moving and unlocked from the transfer case. Olny after replacing the rear end are you going to find out if the front end and transfer case are good.
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:35 PM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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Good stuff - thanks!

When I jack up the rear and roll the wheels (I'm trying to figure out the rear end as I go here) - the two parts that the axle connects to do not move (pinion in the way) - but there is gear that is the middle of the assembly that turns.

I'm going to do a rear end swap - I'm going to look at 2 this afternoon that came off Dakotas, but I don't have high hopes here in Guam. I have a quote on a diff from AZ with 12K on it for $600+ship.

I think I have the rear end figured out as soon as I can get the parts (either a rear end or just this diff that I have a quote on). The front end just worried me.

When I have it jacked up, I can't move the wheels at all. They have a little play, but I can't move them enough to feel a bind come out. I'll have to see what I can do.

Thanks guys!
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:57 PM
jpdeuce jpdeuce is offline
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Apparently there is only one opinion that matters here, so I will leave y'all to it.

Good luck with your Durango.
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:44 PM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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jp - I'm going to need all the help I can get...I'm up to my gonads in trouble out here.

So I just jumped it off and it started just fine. The 2WD/4WD hi indicator will not stop blinking. So it's not engaging in either 2WD or 4WD. Also, I shifted through the gears and you can feel Tranny shifting - so when I ease off the brake, nothing. So 4WD is out.

I put it in 2WD and N (again, it won't go to a steady indicator) - and I can't push it forward or backward. Just stuck. Then the transmission indicator wouldn't tell me what gear I was in - all the gears highlighted up then the engine died. Battery.

So that's where I'm at. They wanted 1500 for a rear end off a Dodge Ram that was in a wreck and it looked pretty rusted. That's the Guam price. So I'll have to have a rear end sent in.

I guess until then, I won't know if what's locking my front end up. Hopefully not the transmission?
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpdeuce View Post
Apparently there is only one opinion that matters here, so I will leave y'all to it.

Good luck with your Durango.

^.....LOL.....^

Now don't be bitter!........

Just a lot of this was answered if ya read back.

There's some sarcasim here.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHarris75 View Post
jp - I'm going to need all the help I can get...I'm up to my gonads in trouble out here.

So I just jumped it off and it started just fine. The 2WD/4WD hi indicator will not stop blinking. So it's not engaging in either 2WD or 4WD. Also, I shifted through the gears and you can feel Tranny shifting - so when I ease off the brake, nothing. So 4WD is out.

I put it in 2WD and N (again, it won't go to a steady indicator) - and I can't push it forward or backward. Just stuck. Then the transmission indicator wouldn't tell me what gear I was in - all the gears highlighted up then the engine died. Battery.

So that's where I'm at. They wanted 1500 for a rear end off a Dodge Ram that was in a wreck and it looked pretty rusted. That's the Guam price. So I'll have to have a rear end sent in.

I guess until then, I won't know if what's locking my front end up. Hopefully not the transmission?
Disconnect the rear driveline, raise the front end wheels off the ground and try to place the Transfer case in "N" to see if you can get the front end out. You might need to start it and use the power train if needed. Also if there is anyway you can disconnect the front diff from the transfer case. There is going to be a lot of bind on there so be careful either way.

The dodge Ram axel housing is too big for the D chasis. You are going to have to get a Dak. or D rear end. Remember to get it the same as the front and if you are going to have to go all the way you can go for the 392 gearing for more power if you have the 352's.

I think you are going to have to remove everything and look into it all.

I know you don't want to get into this that much but you are going to have to go one part at a time and pray.
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:59 AM
DHarris75 DHarris75 is offline
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Okay - thanks for the answers. A lot of what I've read through these boards have painted a pretty clear picture of what I am looking at.

I'll do what you said and see if I can get into the front end. I don't mind getting my hands dirty - LOL. Just a lot of $$$ for parts out here. Got the quote on my rear end - cost me $500 for the end, and $783 for shipping

Thanks again...
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:59 AM
 
 
 
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2000, 2002, case, changing, diff, dodge, durango, exploded, explodes, oil, ram, rear, rebuild, transfer, view

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