See my thread from 3/26/2009 "Anti-Lock (ABS) Fixed". I researched all I could on it and also replaced the speed sensor in the rear differential. It appeared to be the fix based on all those that had similar problems. You may want to check its resistance before changing it.
A better bet would be to take it to a shop that can do a computer download of the trouble code for a small diagnostic fee. Dodge did mine for $35.00 while it was in for an oil change. Later, we looked at trading the Durango in on a Saturn Outlook. That dealer looked my Durango and diagnosed it for free confirming the earlier finding. Wasn't especially happy to get offered $1000 less for it since the ABS and Brake warning lights were on.
Obviously wherever you take it has to have an ABS code reader -- the auto part stores I checked with didn't have that tester for use; only had the one for engine codes, etc.
After finding out it was the CAB (Computer Anti-lock Brakes) module, I sent it in for a $60fix. It's easy to R/R. The ebay page for the company (A.T.E.) listed a continuously running pump as one of symptoms of a bad CAB module. You should unplug the three electrical plugs at least to save your pump until you get er fixed.
Concerning the rear differential sensor, if you research enough here (and dakota-durango.com) you will probably even find what size wrench to use along with other tips.
I don't exactly remember how much the part costs since I was buying other parts at the same time. It could have been more than the rebuild of the CAB module which I would expect to be more suspect based on your running pump.
The changing of the sensor itself was easy just make sure you don't force it trying to get the old one out, or putting the new one in. Easier said than done. After reading everyone's experience I just knew something would go south on me so I "micro-wiggled" it out, then same with the new one going in.
If the new one doesn't seat exactly, it was mentioned to turn the wheel a little and try it again. Make sure what you take out looks like the new one so you know part of it didn't stay inside the case. It doesn't take long if you choose to change it. I just crawled under there and didn't even need to lift the truck.
Let us know...
Last edited by DurangoILNG23; 03-31-2009 at 01:05 AM..
I got the sensor, and was doing a couple of other things as well. So i had a couple of spare minutes so i tried it to see if i could get it done quick. crawled under and took the nut off the stud. tried to get the brakes lines clear but did not have the position right and it was not coming off. so then i tried to get the connector off and that did not happen. this was a quick 5 minute try. oh yeah hit my head on a shock bolt too..alittle blood ....still hurts and that was yesterday lol i will try more i think tomorrow it is raining here today. i will try the wiggle and see if that works. Thanks for all the info
Today went to the junk yard and got that ABS whatever that sits by the brake booster 50 bones. Got home and started to replace the ABS sensor in the rear. Got that done but, still had the light and the pump. replaced the ABS what have ya and well it is good to go. took a drive and no abs/brake light. So fixed it. thanks to all of you and your big dodge brains. I do not even want to think of how much it would of cost at a shop. You guys kick ***. Thank you so very much....tomorrow if the weather is nice i will change the plugs, cap, and rotor. Again my hats off to you all
Last edited by teck78; 04-03-2009 at 01:21 AM..
Reason: no reason
I prefer MSD Red 8.5mm wires or OEM wires only for these rigs if you don't have a 4.7L.
Cap and rotor spend the $2 bucks more for brass contacts and Champion Regular Copper Plugs (OEM) or Champion Truck Plugs for a hotter burn or Iridium Champion Plugs for a softer idle.
For the 4.7L I recommend Champion regular Copper Plugs or Champion Truck Plugs for a hotter burn. Not sure on the Iridium Champion Plugs in the 4.7L. Also 4.7L does not hae wires it only has coil overs.
Also install a 180 degree T-stat.
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