4.7 PCV Valve.....Not exactly a 60 sec job but not overly difficult.. patience is a virtue.

biggest obstacle is the two a/c lines in the way.. basically unplug the hose, twist and pull about 1/4 turn....I believe counterclockwise but dont quote me.

+2 on coil pack #8 being the toughest one. I believe I used 5/8 spark plug wrench, pb blaster and extension. I also used a universal and a speed handle. I know it should seem that # 7 should be just as difficult but the spark plug liners are offset just enough so the #7 is slightly more towards the front of the engine leaving a bit more room for the socket and ratchet to swing pretty freely.

For coil packs...dont forget to unplug the electrical connection....would hate for you to tear that connection and toss a code or have it not run right.

 

Currently changing out the spark plugs. Actually, it looks like #2 (passenger side) and #3 (driver side) that looks to be bears to get to. The 2 metal lines going across appear to be in the way (coolant lines?). Do they have to be removed along with the black fuel/air intake assembly?

 

Well I took off the PCV valve not to long ago to inspect it, looks alright to me, a little sludgy but not bad, but I would like to still replace it, how much will one cost me from shucks? Also to answer some's question on the difficulty/requirment to removing the PCV valve.

its actually fairly easy, it's just kinda time comsuming, but you will want to let the engine cool down for a bit if you just got done driving, pop the hood and wait a good 30mins, then you should be fine, but still try to ware gloves because some of the metal lines are still warm/hot, and you WILL be touching them off and on.

But anyhow first remove the air box on the passanger side of the engine, its very simple, just grab a 3/8 ratchet and an small socket set (sorry cant think of what socket you will need) and its just one bolt on the backish of the airbox and then an rubber style one towards the front of the airbox that you just pull up, but before you remove it completly, losen the clamp on the hose connecting to the air hat.

Set your air box and air filter aside and either just push the air box lid to the back of the engine bay or take off the vacuum tube and set the lid aside. Ok now you will have much more room to get to the valve, all you need to do is remove the fattish rubber hose that goes to the valve on the side of the oil filler tube, turn the actual PCV valve about 90degrees counter clockwise and pull her out!

Well there ya go, now just do everything in reverse order (with new PCV valve and your good to go!) Well Good luck!

 

Hello, a newbie here, plus trying to learn more about working on my Durango. I'm not auto repair smart, but I am handy enough to be dangerous. I have been reading this forum and have found it very informative.

I have a 2000 Durango, 4.7L 4x4 and was changing out the spark plugs which was long overdue. Two of the ignition coils did not have the o-ring on them. A couple of questions concerning this issue...

Can I buy just the o-ring without buying a new ignition coil?
Should I change out all of the o-rings on all of the ignition coils just for preventive maintenance?

I apologize if it is against the rules to bump old threads, but I just saw to make sure and post questions in the right generation. Plus, this thread dealt with the 4.7L spark plug issue, so hopefully piggybacking on it is ok.

 

if the o-rings arent there and you havnt had any problems you could get away without worrying about them IMO, would it be best to replace them, yup,

personally i would take one off one of the other coils and go to a hardware or auto store, they should sell o-rings either individually or packaged by size, just find the right size and buy some.

also: thank you for reading that post and putting this in the correct section