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Changing Spark plugs and PCV - 2000 4.7

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Old 11-14-2010, 08:29 AM
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Question Changing Spark plugs and PCV - 2000 4.7

Hi - bought a used 2000 Durango 4.7 V8 4x4 a couple of months ago. Love the truck so far. I want to do some preventive maintenance on the vehicle. Already changed air filter and oil (oil was a little interesting). I also want to do:

1. Spark plugs. I noticed that this model/engine does not have spark plug wires, but it has what the dealership calls "spark packs" that sit on top of each plug. I grew up with an older '90 Mustang V8 with the older school distributor, wires, cap, etc... I'm not used to this idea of electronic spark pack. How hard is it to remove each spark pack to get access to the plug? Any special tips or things to look out for or is it straight forward? By the way, the dealership does recommend copper based plugs.

2. PCV valve. It's located right off the oil filler cap. Yesterday I noticed it will be a little interesting to get to. There's the 2 metal A/C lines right over the PVC valve attached to the oil filler neck. Any special tricks or hints?

Next month it will be the O2 sensors. Thanks-
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:50 PM
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+1 on standard copper plugs.

FWIW, the larger 5.2L and 5.9L engines on the Durango's have the plug/wire/rotor/cap you are used to. The Hemi and the little 4.7l have the spark packs.

IndyD
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Old 11-15-2010, 12:34 AM
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You don't need to buy the spark packs (coil overs). On your 4.7L get Champion Copper spark plugs (gap .040) and a new PCV valve.


If you do the 02 sensors, then use dealership parts ONLY........If it ain't broke, don't fix it....lol
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Old 11-16-2010, 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I guess my overall question is how hard is it to replace the components overall? For the coil packs, it is just a simple matter of unbolting them, removing, replace the spark plugs and re-install the coil pack?
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:54 PM
Durangovaldeez Durangovaldeez is offline
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I believe it is a 10mm nut that you will unscrew before you can lift up on the coil overs. I think on the passenger side I had to remove a support for the injectors or something - it will be obvious when you get into it. Remove the nut, unplug the harness from the coil and gently twist right to left while pulling up gently. This should not take mush effort.
I believe a 5/8 spark plug wrench with an extension will unscrew the plugs.
Use a piece of gas line "6 or 7 inches" to reach in and grab the plug to pull it out.
If you feel more resistance that you think is normal removing a plug - don't force it. SOak it overnight with some P.B. blaster and try again the next day.
If it is still feeling like it takes to much torque try an impact gun - the jarring will break it loose without "jaking" the threads long before strong arming a ratchet.
revers the steps to put em back in and Bob's youre uncle!
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:57 PM
Durangovaldeez Durangovaldeez is offline
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One more thing - + 1 on the copper plugs.
The kid at the parts store will probably tell you to buy the "better" plugs.
Totally not reccomended by anyone on this forum who I trust for advice.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:02 PM
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Yes......lol


Very easy! Get the cheapo Champion Copper plugs and don't listen to the parts guy.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:06 PM
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It's all pretty straight forward on doing the plugs. #8 cylinder was a little tough (passenger side back). I just did plugs, oil and filter change, trans fluid and filters change, etc, but I totally forgot about the pcv valve. OOPS!!
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Old 01-08-2011, 01:33 PM
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The PCV valve is right off the oil filler tube. How tough is it to change? Any tips?
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:10 PM
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On a 2000 5.9L it is a 60 second job. Pull out, replace, done. Not sure on a 4.7l.

IndyD
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Old 01-08-2011, 07:30 PM
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4.7 PCV Valve.....Not exactly a 60 sec job but not overly difficult.. patience is a virtue.

biggest obstacle is the two a/c lines in the way.. basically unplug the hose, twist and pull about 1/4 turn....I believe counterclockwise but dont quote me.

+2 on coil pack #8 being the toughest one. I believe I used 5/8 spark plug wrench, pb blaster and extension. I also used a universal and a speed handle. I know it should seem that # 7 should be just as difficult but the spark plug liners are offset just enough so the #7 is slightly more towards the front of the engine leaving a bit more room for the socket and ratchet to swing pretty freely.

For coil packs...dont forget to unplug the electrical connection....would hate for you to tear that connection and toss a code or have it not run right.
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Old 01-16-2011, 12:45 PM
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Currently changing out the spark plugs. Actually, it looks like #2 (passenger side) and #3 (driver side) that looks to be bears to get to. The 2 metal lines going across appear to be in the way (coolant lines?). Do they have to be removed along with the black fuel/air intake assembly?
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:45 AM
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Well I took off the PCV valve not to long ago to inspect it, looks alright to me, a little sludgy but not bad, but I would like to still replace it, how much will one cost me from shucks? Also to answer some's question on the difficulty/requirment to removing the PCV valve.

its actually fairly easy, it's just kinda time comsuming, but you will want to let the engine cool down for a bit if you just got done driving, pop the hood and wait a good 30mins, then you should be fine, but still try to ware gloves because some of the metal lines are still warm/hot, and you WILL be touching them off and on.

But anyhow first remove the air box on the passanger side of the engine, its very simple, just grab a 3/8 ratchet and an small socket set (sorry cant think of what socket you will need) and its just one bolt on the backish of the airbox and then an rubber style one towards the front of the airbox that you just pull up, but before you remove it completly, losen the clamp on the hose connecting to the air hat.

Set your air box and air filter aside and either just push the air box lid to the back of the engine bay or take off the vacuum tube and set the lid aside. Ok now you will have much more room to get to the valve, all you need to do is remove the fattish rubber hose that goes to the valve on the side of the oil filler tube, turn the actual PCV valve about 90degrees counter clockwise and pull her out!

Well there ya go, now just do everything in reverse order (with new PCV valve and your good to go!) Well Good luck!
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:20 PM
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Hello, a newbie here, plus trying to learn more about working on my Durango. I'm not auto repair smart, but I am handy enough to be dangerous. I have been reading this forum and have found it very informative.

I have a 2000 Durango, 4.7L 4x4 and was changing out the spark plugs which was long overdue. Two of the ignition coils did not have the o-ring on them. A couple of questions concerning this issue...

Can I buy just the o-ring without buying a new ignition coil?
Should I change out all of the o-rings on all of the ignition coils just for preventive maintenance?

I apologize if it is against the rules to bump old threads, but I just saw to make sure and post questions in the right generation. Plus, this thread dealt with the 4.7L spark plug issue, so hopefully piggybacking on it is ok.
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:49 PM
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if the o-rings arent there and you havnt had any problems you could get away without worrying about them IMO, would it be best to replace them, yup,

personally i would take one off one of the other coils and go to a hardware or auto store, they should sell o-rings either individually or packaged by size, just find the right size and buy some.

also: thank you for reading that post and putting this in the correct section
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