Full-Time 4WD PROBLEM!!!
#1
11-20-2010, 05:09 PM
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Full-Time 4WD PROBLEM!!!
My Durango has a funky 4WD system and I am wondering if anyone can help me figure it out.
Just FYI - When I shift into 4WD, I put my truck in neutral, make the switch, reverse a few feet, then put it in drive. When I disengage I put it in neutral, disengage 4WD, reverse a few feet, and put it in drive. This is how I have learned, please let me know if there is a better way to do it.
I have a few problems, 1) My truck has a hard time disengaging 4WD, and 2) My truck will not go into Full-Time 4WD.
Issue one: When I shift into Full-Time 4WD it shows Full-Time on the dash but I am 99% sure it is in Part Time because when I turn my wheels all the way and drive very slow, it is gripping hard. In this circumstance, I assume nothing should be slipping to engage the 4wd.
Please let me know if there is an easier way to tell if I am 1) in Full Time, 2) in part time, and 3) in 2WD.
Another issue: When I shift out of 4WD, the 4WD light go off on the dash, but the truck is still in 4WD. I have to reverse forever just to get it out of 4WD and back into 2WD, then I have to turn the wheels to see if it is gripping to make sure it came out of 4WD. Sometimes it comes out of 4WD, sometimes I have to do it again for 4WD to disengage.
I hope someone can help me out with these issues. It is winter here and just starting to snow, so I actually wouldn't mind just putting it in Full-Time 4WD and leaving it all winter. But I do not want to leave it in Part-Time 4WD, and it is hard to disengage it if I wanted to switch between 2WD and Part Time 4WD. I would like to get it all fixed so it works perfect, like my last Durango, but I would be happy for now if I can get it into Full-Time 4WD and leave it for the winter.
I know I am asking a lot, but I hope someone has some knowledge they can share with me. Thanks so much in advance!
Just FYI - When I shift into 4WD, I put my truck in neutral, make the switch, reverse a few feet, then put it in drive. When I disengage I put it in neutral, disengage 4WD, reverse a few feet, and put it in drive. This is how I have learned, please let me know if there is a better way to do it.
I have a few problems, 1) My truck has a hard time disengaging 4WD, and 2) My truck will not go into Full-Time 4WD.
Issue one: When I shift into Full-Time 4WD it shows Full-Time on the dash but I am 99% sure it is in Part Time because when I turn my wheels all the way and drive very slow, it is gripping hard. In this circumstance, I assume nothing should be slipping to engage the 4wd.
Please let me know if there is an easier way to tell if I am 1) in Full Time, 2) in part time, and 3) in 2WD.
Another issue: When I shift out of 4WD, the 4WD light go off on the dash, but the truck is still in 4WD. I have to reverse forever just to get it out of 4WD and back into 2WD, then I have to turn the wheels to see if it is gripping to make sure it came out of 4WD. Sometimes it comes out of 4WD, sometimes I have to do it again for 4WD to disengage.
I hope someone can help me out with these issues. It is winter here and just starting to snow, so I actually wouldn't mind just putting it in Full-Time 4WD and leaving it all winter. But I do not want to leave it in Part-Time 4WD, and it is hard to disengage it if I wanted to switch between 2WD and Part Time 4WD. I would like to get it all fixed so it works perfect, like my last Durango, but I would be happy for now if I can get it into Full-Time 4WD and leave it for the winter.
I know I am asking a lot, but I hope someone has some knowledge they can share with me. Thanks so much in advance!
#2
11-20-2010, 08:44 PM
THE ULTI-MOD
your t-case is actually known for being hard to disengage, you MUST back up and turn the wheels to relieve the axle bind in order to disengage the 4x4, a pita im sure.
in order to shift INTO 4x4 there is no need to hit nuetral or back up (nuetral is only required if you are going into 4lo) the manual says (iirc) to be rolling in gear with no pressure on the gas pedal at 5-10mph, your pull forward to turn is about the only method i know for telling if you are in 4wd part time without jacking the truck up and trying to turn the wheels. Hydra and master tech are the experts in this area and will certainly have more details for you
in order to shift INTO 4x4 there is no need to hit nuetral or back up (nuetral is only required if you are going into 4lo) the manual says (iirc) to be rolling in gear with no pressure on the gas pedal at 5-10mph, your pull forward to turn is about the only method i know for telling if you are in 4wd part time without jacking the truck up and trying to turn the wheels. Hydra and master tech are the experts in this area and will certainly have more details for you
#4
11-20-2010, 10:43 PM
Hall Of Fame
Sounds like you both have a NV242HD transfer case.
You should have 5 positions:
2WD
4 Part Time
4 Full Time
Neutral
4 Low
If this is what you have then here is the correct way to disengage: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...sfer-case.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...nv-242-hd.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ow-hi-awd.html
You should have 5 positions:
2WD
4 Part Time
4 Full Time
Neutral
4 Low
If this is what you have then here is the correct way to disengage: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...sfer-case.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...nv-242-hd.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ow-hi-awd.html
#5
11-22-2010, 04:57 PM
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#7
11-23-2010, 01:00 AM
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#8
11-23-2010, 08:48 AM
THE ULTI-MOD
#9
11-23-2010, 10:17 PM
Hall Of Fame
I say no,
The reason for this is I have done this before and it still will act the same. There is some residual axle bind although most was alleviated in the Viscous Coupler. The key word is MOST, most of it should be gone though.
Concerting no matter what, when you shift the T-case in your NV242HD transfer case the last position is 4PT so that in it's self is the issue and the main reason Chrysler took it out and changed the design to that of the R/T model as an AWD case because of all the issues and teaching people how to proper use it. People look at it and think "part time use", "ok I will use it only when Part Time use is intended like wet or icy roads".........duuuuuuuuuuh.
No no no no no
The directions are right in the owners manual but people won't read it or don't understand and Chrysler didn't help them understand it either. This is why they re-manufactured it. The bottom line is, this is a REALLY good T-case period (if you use it correctly!).
Concerting the last position you shift in is 4PT, that is the position it will lock into. The reason it does is because the gearing must mesh for a complete and total lock between differentials. This is why they get axle bind between the differentials and that axle bind must be fully alleviated for the system to fully disengage from the gearing on the front to rear differential.
There is no easy way with that Transfer Case, that's the down side. But look at it this way, if you use it correctly you have one of the most heavy duty cases out there and the most options out there in the Durango world. You have a 4X4 MACHINE!
The reason for this is I have done this before and it still will act the same. There is some residual axle bind although most was alleviated in the Viscous Coupler. The key word is MOST, most of it should be gone though.
Concerting no matter what, when you shift the T-case in your NV242HD transfer case the last position is 4PT so that in it's self is the issue and the main reason Chrysler took it out and changed the design to that of the R/T model as an AWD case because of all the issues and teaching people how to proper use it. People look at it and think "part time use", "ok I will use it only when Part Time use is intended like wet or icy roads".........duuuuuuuuuuh.
No no no no no
The directions are right in the owners manual but people won't read it or don't understand and Chrysler didn't help them understand it either. This is why they re-manufactured it. The bottom line is, this is a REALLY good T-case period (if you use it correctly!).
Concerting the last position you shift in is 4PT, that is the position it will lock into. The reason it does is because the gearing must mesh for a complete and total lock between differentials. This is why they get axle bind between the differentials and that axle bind must be fully alleviated for the system to fully disengage from the gearing on the front to rear differential.
There is no easy way with that Transfer Case, that's the down side. But look at it this way, if you use it correctly you have one of the most heavy duty cases out there and the most options out there in the Durango world. You have a 4X4 MACHINE!
