1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

No Power when Accelerating

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Old 06-23-2012, 10:21 PM
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Default No Power when Accelerating

Hello everyone,

I'll be the first to admit I don't know a lot about cars/trucks so I'm not sure whats going on. I've been having a problem the past day or two when accelerating. When I have my foot all the way down on the gas there just seems to be minimal power. No weird sounds but sometimes theres rumbling from the exhaust when I let off the gas. I've heard the exhaust rumble before when I didn't have this problem. I called a friend and he said it could be the mass airflow sensor or it could be the gas since it started happening the night I put more gas in it. He said it could be a bit watered down gas. What do you guys think? Could it be a problem with the tranny also? It shifts fine though.

I have a 1999 Durango 5.2L V8 Magnum Rear Wheel Drive with 104,200 miles.
 
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:35 PM
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Oh I'll throw in that the Check Engine light is on and has been on for years. I don't know if that matters or not. Took it to my mechanic, he couldnt figure it out then took it to the dealership and paid a lot of money to replace the computer and run diagnostics and the light was still on. They couldnt figure it out either.
 
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Lynaugh
Oh I'll throw in that the Check Engine light is on and has been on for years. I don't know if that matters or not. Took it to my mechanic, he couldnt figure it out then took it to the dealership and paid a lot of money to replace the computer and run diagnostics and the light was still on. They couldnt figure it out either.
First thing i would do is find out if there are any codes associated with the check engine light (auto zone or other major parts stores do this for free)... its on for a reason! If there are no codes, try resetting the computer via disconnecting the black negative wire from the battery, then turning the key to the "start" position for 10 -15 seconds, then remove the key, and reconnect the battery.

If the check engine light goes away, drive it and see if the problem is solved. If it remains, or comes back, get the codes from the diagnostics and repost them here.

I could name off a few other things to check, but dont want to send you on a wild goose chase... first thing is the check engine light.
 
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:27 PM
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O,okay I put together a 5.2 engine in my 1998 Durango, same problem, but no codes is driving me insane. It start perfectly but when gas is press nothing happen, actually it hesitate some... any idea thanks.....
 
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TravisN.
First thing i would do is find out if there are any codes associated with the check engine light (auto zone or other major parts stores do this for free)... its on for a reason! If there are no codes, try resetting the computer via disconnecting the black negative wire from the battery, then turning the key to the "start" position for 10 -15 seconds, then remove the key, and reconnect the battery.

If the check engine light goes away, drive it and see if the problem is solved. If it remains, or comes back, get the codes from the diagnostics and repost them here.

I could name off a few other things to check, but dont want to send you on a wild goose chase... first thing is the check engine light.
Thank you for the reply. I will go to the nearest auto zone at some point this week after work and post the codes here.

Originally Posted by AgustinSr
O,okay I put together a 5.2 engine in my 1998 Durango, same problem, but no codes is driving me insane. It start perfectly but when gas is press nothing happen, actually it hesitate some... any idea thanks.....
Thats weird. Mine works but I can have the pedal to the floor and I'll creep up to 30 mph real slow. It also hits 2000 rpm's fine but when it gets up to that then its super slow with going any higher.
 
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:37 PM
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+1. Pull the codes to see what the check engine light is.

My suspicion may be the transmission output sensor or the sensor on the rear axle. These sensors are known to go out and can cause the no power behavior. I would replace both rather than the one defective one as both sensors work together to run correctly.

I would check and possibly replace the map sensor. I replaced my map sensor from auto zone even tho there was no codes. I immediately noticed a power improvement from the new map sensor.

The procedure to replace these parts yourself is located in the stickied thread in the DIY section.
 
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:15 PM
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Hey guys, just got back from Autozone. The guy there said I had 2 codes pop up.
Here's the codes: P0753, P0505

Here's what the 2 receipts say:

For Code P0753
Definition - Shift solenoid valve performance
Explanation - ECM has detected an open or shorted condition on the shift solenoid circuit.
Probable cause - Shift solenoid failure - Repair other codes first
- Open or short circuit condition


For Code P0505
Definition - IAC Circuit condition or idle speed higher/lower than expected
Explanation - ECM has detected that the IAC counts are higher or lower than expected, the engine speed is not in its expected range
Probable cause - Vacuum leak on engine
- Dirty throttle body
- IAC motor defective
- Poor electrical connection to the IAC valve

My dads friend owns a shop and I'm bringing my Durango there early next week to get a tune-up. Should I bring the receipts with the codes to him as well?
 
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:47 PM
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The 505 code sounds like its the one thats been causing the check engine light to stay on for a while. Check for vacume leaks first, then move to the TB. Get a couple cans of carb cleaner and remove the TB (careful not to damage the gasket, or just go ahead and get a replacement gasket to start with). Use the carb cleaner liberally on the TB without trying to get too intricate, ie move the butterfly valve and spray in the ports, but dont go pushing and moving every little thing you can. There is a section for the IAC on how to clean it and check it, read up on that ahead of time as well. (A search for "IAC" or "idle air controller" will find it).

As for the 0753 code, i'm sure some people will jump on very quickly to help with that, i'm not a tranny guy at all. (That sounded bad! Lol)
 
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisN.
The 505 code sounds like its the one thats been causing the check engine light to stay on for a while. Check for vacume leaks first, then move to the TB. Get a couple cans of carb cleaner and remove the TB (careful not to damage the gasket, or just go ahead and get a replacement gasket to start with). Use the carb cleaner liberally on the TB without trying to get too intricate, ie move the butterfly valve and spray in the ports, but dont go pushing and moving every little thing you can. There is a section for the IAC on how to clean it and check it, read up on that ahead of time as well. (A search for "IAC" or "idle air controller" will find it).

As for the 0753 code, i'm sure some people will jump on very quickly to help with that, i'm not a tranny guy at all. (That sounded bad! Lol)
Thanks a lot bro and thanks for the tips on how to clean the TB!
 
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Lynaugh
Thanks a lot bro and thanks for the tips on how to clean the TB!
Send a PM to mastertech he is are transmission guy.
 


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