2003 4.7 Durango engine noise
#31
Sounds like classic chain wear and worn sprockets. Tight at one spot and loose at another. Remember to ensure the motor is at #1 TDC and timing marks lined up before tear down of timing components. I think you said you are ordering the whole set up, but I was unsure.
You should take a look at the Service Manual http://www.mediafire.com/?fqnnjdzq252
You should take a look at the Service Manual http://www.mediafire.com/?fqnnjdzq252
#32
Getting ready to replace the timing chains...I am reviewing the write ups and I see in the manual that they use a "timing chain wedge, special tool #8350" to hold the timing chains while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt. It looks like a piece of wood to me...does anyone know if it is really needed or what did you use in place of it?
#33
Not sure what a timing chain wedge is, but there is a special tool to hold the camshaft(s) when you loosen the bolts. It's a flat wrench with a couple of posts in it that slip over the gear. In a pinch you can also grasp the camshaft with a pair of vise grips in between the lobes near the front of the shaft, wrap it with a piece of leather first, and break the bolt free. An impact wrench is handy to break them free, but make sure you use a torque wrench to put them back on.
Double and triple check your timing sprocket relationships BEFORE you torque anything up, it's REAL EASY to be off one tooth either way.
Edit - just checked, it's tool 6958 for removing the sprockets. Still not sure what the wedge is for?
Bob
Double and triple check your timing sprocket relationships BEFORE you torque anything up, it's REAL EASY to be off one tooth either way.
Edit - just checked, it's tool 6958 for removing the sprockets. Still not sure what the wedge is for?
Bob
Last edited by Bobman; 06-13-2011 at 08:18 PM.
#34
#35
When I changed mine out. I bought 4 pair of vise grips from Harbor Freight for a couple of bucks a piece. Griped them down on the camshafts (in between the lobes), one on braced on the top and one braced on the bottom of the head to hold the cam in position. Then I used two breaker bars, on to hold and one to break loose the cam bolts. Used the same method to tighten back down after the switch. Mine broke free without a lot of effort. I think others have not been as lucky.
#36
#37
#39
If you have a problem then "fix" the problem instead of trying to cover up the under lying issue. Additives are like herbs, non-regulated crap.