1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

2003 4.7 Durango engine noise

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  #31  
Old 06-11-2011, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
Sounds like classic chain wear and worn sprockets. Tight at one spot and loose at another. Remember to ensure the motor is at #1 TDC and timing marks lined up before tear down of timing components. I think you said you are ordering the whole set up, but I was unsure.

You should take a look at the Service Manual http://www.mediafire.com/?fqnnjdzq252
Yeah, cause few things suck more than being one tooth off, lol
 
  #32  
Old 06-13-2011, 04:37 PM
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Getting ready to replace the timing chains...I am reviewing the write ups and I see in the manual that they use a "timing chain wedge, special tool #8350" to hold the timing chains while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt. It looks like a piece of wood to me...does anyone know if it is really needed or what did you use in place of it?
 
  #33  
Old 06-13-2011, 08:12 PM
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Not sure what a timing chain wedge is, but there is a special tool to hold the camshaft(s) when you loosen the bolts. It's a flat wrench with a couple of posts in it that slip over the gear. In a pinch you can also grasp the camshaft with a pair of vise grips in between the lobes near the front of the shaft, wrap it with a piece of leather first, and break the bolt free. An impact wrench is handy to break them free, but make sure you use a torque wrench to put them back on.

Double and triple check your timing sprocket relationships BEFORE you torque anything up, it's REAL EASY to be off one tooth either way.

Edit - just checked, it's tool 6958 for removing the sprockets. Still not sure what the wedge is for?
Bob
 

Last edited by Bobman; 06-13-2011 at 08:18 PM.
  #34  
Old 06-13-2011, 08:15 PM
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I've heard of people making their own tool for this job. You could possible figure out something when you see it. Hell a few times I've used a wood wedge to get gears on and off, it doesn't hurt the gears and you can get your torque.
 
  #35  
Old 06-15-2011, 11:03 AM
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When I changed mine out. I bought 4 pair of vise grips from Harbor Freight for a couple of bucks a piece. Griped them down on the camshafts (in between the lobes), one on braced on the top and one braced on the bottom of the head to hold the cam in position. Then I used two breaker bars, on to hold and one to break loose the cam bolts. Used the same method to tighten back down after the switch. Mine broke free without a lot of effort. I think others have not been as lucky.
 
  #36  
Old 06-15-2011, 12:04 PM
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I recently learned that the slight ticking I was hearing was not caused by a worn pulley, but coming from the passenger side vale cover. I'm thinking about using a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer at my next change to see if that rids me of the noise.
 
  #37  
Old 06-15-2011, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparMan1991
I'm thinking about using a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer
bad bad bad bad bad bad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NEVER put any additives into your oil, they are the modern day equivalent of snake oil, are unregulated and do no good
 
  #38  
Old 06-15-2011, 12:52 PM
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I used it in my 2001 5.0L explorer and it worked great on the tick.
 
  #39  
Old 06-15-2011, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MoparMan1991
I recently learned that the slight ticking I was hearing was not caused by a worn pulley, but coming from the passenger side vale cover. I'm thinking about using a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer at my next change to see if that rids me of the noise.
If you have a problem then "fix" the problem instead of trying to cover up the under lying issue. Additives are like herbs, non-regulated crap.
 
  #40  
Old 06-15-2011, 05:43 PM
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Well I'm sorry but I can't afford to fix everything. I'm not made of money.
 


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