Started to assemble this afternoon. I have all the chains and stuff in. I was able to use impact tool for disassembly and I made a tool to hold the cams while they were torqued. Just have to finish the water system and add AC and alternator. I should be on the road tomorrow!!!

 

unfortunately none of us are made of money, but in 95% of cases oil additives do alot more harm than good. The 4.7 is known to have a start up tick for a minute or so right after starting my dads 09 dakota w/ the 4.7 does it too (i made a point of checking one morning) it may sound bad, but its normal. i could tell the story of when my parents bought my truck, but i think thats been played out.

 

Bungee cords make great "extra hands" when trying to hold all three chains during assembly.

 

I didn't think of that. I ended up using large zip ties to hold everything and then cut them loose once everything was in.

 

Mine has a bit of a tick to it, and I believe it also has a small exhaust leak where the driver's side manifold connects to the Y pipe (I assume thats what its called...) which I have seen posted about on here too. I haven't bothered messing with the leak as its not really causing me any issues, but when I eventually get around to it I'll know more about what the noise is. I can't tell while driving it what the leak is or if there's something else going on too. There aren't any rattling or other noises and the engine runs great.

 

Well.....end result not too good....it still makes the noise and I have a P016 code....looks like I will take a break and tear it down and find out how I screwed up the timing chain alignment... Can't be off too far cause the engine still runs and I haven't bent all the valves..... Good thing my labor is cheap

 

Ouch, that sucks. Sounds like one of the chains is off one link. Here are the "official" instructions for setting the timing chains up. Since you did it once already it should be easier this time! I'm not sure if you pulled the lower gears / chain or not, so adjust the instructions accordingly. Take your time and triple check your work before closing it up. Good call on the zip ties for holding the chains!

Bob

1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten torx® bolt to specified torque only.
   
2. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.). NOTE: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
   
3. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten torx® bolt to specified torque only.
   
4. Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.).
5. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
6. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8515 to hold chains in place for installation
7. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
8. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil.
9. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly. After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
   
10. Align left camshaft sprocket “L” dot to plated link on chain.
11. Align right camshaft sprocket “R” dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
    
12. Remove Special Tool 8515, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
13. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the “V8” marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position. CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
    
14. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
    
15. Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.).
16. Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners. CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
17. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left and right camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N·m (90 ft. lbs.).

 

Bobman thanks, those are the instructions I used. I had the links for the cams perfect...in fact, I was concentrating on those so much I may have had the lower timing gear off by one tooth....no way to check from the outside.

The most difficult thing I had problems with were the special tools. I ended up making my own and modifying others to work. At least all the bolts will be easier to break free. Now if I can keep from dumping antifreez into the oil pan, I will be good to go. I am taking the weekend off and will take it apart Monday.

 

On second thought...before I tear it down, if I put the crank at TDC and pop the valve covers...the V8 on the cam gear should be at 12 o'clock....right?

 

That is correct, both cam's shoild have there V8 marks facing up. It's REAL easy to be off by one tooth when putting in the upper chains, especially on the passenger side.

Unfortunately you have to drain the fluids pretty much completely, and you'll still stand a chance of getting some residual antifreeze into the pan. Hopefully you didn't just change the oil with synthetic!

Bob