Dies/stalls when coming to a stop or turning, backfires at times
I have a 2001 5.9 Durango R/T with 183,xxx miles. It ran fine up until last weekend. Suddenly it started to do a sort of Hiccup or stutter if you will. NO engine light, & I took it to a auto parts store and they plugged into it and NO codes. It is progressively getting worse too. It will backfire at times at any rate of speed. Mostly it will die/stall when coming to a stop or going slow as to make a turn onto another street or pulling into a driveway. Still NO codes or engine light!
I have had 2 local repair shops take a look at it with NO answers. Left both repair shops with the mechanics scratching their heads. I finally took it to a certified Dodge dealership & paid the $115 for a diagnostic. Would you believe I got the same answer, don't know what's causing it to do that! The dealership recommended a good old fashion tune-up. New spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor, PCV valve with hose, and a fuel injection cleaner with a throttle body cleansing. I also cleaned the coil with some steel wool when I got it back home along with recharging the cold air intake that was already installed when I bought the Durango from a private party. I am the 2nd owner and this RT is in very good condition still, visually.
Unfortunately for now, the issue is still presenting itself. It died as I was pulling out of the dealership! I am open for any suggestions as to remedy this. I live in Denver, CO so I am not at sea level in case that makes any difference in this situation.
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the stalling could be caused by a bad battery and/or poor battery connections. I've personally had that and lots of other weird electrical problems all be caused by a loose battery terminal so definitely check those and get the battery load tested before you start shelling out money.
-Intense Blue '99 Durango SLT 5.2L FT4X4
-Ivy Green '69 Plymouth Satellite 318
Somewhere in Kenya, a village is missing its idiot.
Maybe I'm thinking wrong. I thought the alternator was supposed to keep the truck running and charge the battery. I know that a bad battery will cause issues. But I can see thinking about it now that siting still would draw power differently. Ehh... No more posting til I've had my coffee and am fully awake lol. So check battery and terminals and check map sensor.
Try to get a computer on it while your driving and see what the engine is reading out
I took it back to the dealer this morning. They said they would look at it again, no charge since their suggestion didn't fix the issue. Battery has checked out just fine, although I am not sure about all the connections or cables to the battery. I'll give the dealership a call to ask them to check all battery connections.
Thank you guys for all your responses. I'll keep you all posted..
Should I replace the PCM myself or have the dealership do it for me? The dealer said that they have to install the new PCM and run a systems check after install. Is this true or can I just install the powertrain control module myself...?
if you get the PCM the install is as simple as plugging it in, however it needs to be programmed first in order to work properly, most places selling them will ask for your information and do this for you before sending it to you. if they dont ask for it dont buy from them.
-Phillip's Law: Four-wheel-drive just means getting stuck in more inaccessible places.
A couple years ago, my ma's '98 needed a jump. The blasted thing wouldn't idle once it fired, even after changing the battery at the Wal-Mart (I didn't leave that thing in there long and got a real battery). I pulled the air filter out and it ran fine, idle and all so I replaced that and it fixed the issue.
It wasn't throwing codes or anything of the sort, so it was a tried and true "guesswork" fix.
Also, have the Dealer hook up the pressure gauge to the fuel rail and check the system for irregularities. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Proper diagnosis; the only way to get the job done right . . . the first time.
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Well it seems that it was the PCM indeed! I had the dealership replace the original one, and now the Durango runs like new again. $1200 total, that's with the tune-up and fuel injection system clean that wasn't the cause of the issues.