Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge SUVs > Dodge Durango > 1st Gen Durango
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-06-2005, 08:36 PM
tst31's Avatar
tst31 tst31 is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Vehicle: 99 Dodge Durango 5.9L 4WD
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 66
Default Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

Greetings. Does anybody have any information, or a link, to the replacement of the upper and lower ball joints on a 99 Durango, 4WD model? Maybe also the inner tie rods, as well? I would like to do the replacement myself, being a semi-skilled garage mechanic, with plenty of tools. However, the Haynes repair manual I have doesn't cover replacement at all. In fact, it suggest just buying an entire upper control or lower control arm instead. I know these bits can be replaced individually, though, so that is what I would like to do. Also, does anybody have any info on better aftermarket parts than OEM, and where to buy them? Much thanks in advance!

TST31
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
__________________
That which does not kill me, only makes me stronger!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-08-2005, 12:44 AM
jciscott jciscott is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 20
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

I bought the moogs on ebay, all 4 for $98 with shipping.
Cant get the lowers out. NEed help
Top is easy the second time after someone eles grinds out the rivits.
__________________
98 duh-rango
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-08-2005, 03:56 PM
tst31's Avatar
tst31 tst31 is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Vehicle: 99 Dodge Durango 5.9L 4WD
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 66
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

Thanks for the reply. 98 bucks is a smoking deal for the Moogs. I have heard they are the best way to go, but of course a bit more expensive. My best price for all four is about $280-$325. Did you find your from a private seller, or possibly someone with a store, that you can IM or send me a link to? I will search on Ebay, and see what I can find. Napa also sells a line, their "chassis" series, that come with a lifetime warranty, and are a bit less expensive, only by about $30 bucks though, $58ea. for upper, $49ea. for lower. Thanks again for your info.
__________________
That which does not kill me, only makes me stronger!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-09-2005, 03:14 AM
jciscott jciscott is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 20
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7996022605

Here is the ebay deal
Opened the box, had moog parts....

What a pain to replace.... I borrowed the ball joint puller tool from local garage. Plus, you gotta pull the hub nut off to get the axel out of the way to use the tool.
Be prepared to remove 1 1/4 nut torqued to 150ftlbs, needed a 3/4 drive breaker bar and 5 feet of pipe.

3-4 hours per side
__________________
98 duh-rango
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-09-2005, 03:15 AM
jciscott jciscott is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 20
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

I will take pictures tomorrow.... and post
__________________
98 duh-rango
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-09-2005, 05:39 PM
tst31's Avatar
tst31 tst31 is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Vehicle: 99 Dodge Durango 5.9L 4WD
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 66
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

thanks for the warning. I may not want to do all this work myself after all? Did you find it worth it, or not? Thanks again.
__________________
That which does not kill me, only makes me stronger!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-11-2005, 08:03 PM
hydrashocker's Avatar
hydrashocker hydrashocker is offline
Hall Of Fame
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Vehicle: 99' Ram 2500 V-10 Sport QC 4X4
Location: GJ, Colorado
Posts: 14,213
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

I've done it. Ok, first you have to undo the wheel bearing nut, (I believe it is a 1 1/4 socket) you have to break the bolt loose while the tire is on the floor. Remove the brakes and rotor. Remove the 3 bolts on the back side of the knuckle, and take out the wheel bearing (it is in one big peace). Then undo the tie rod end. Soak the ball joint end around the bearing with W-D Forty (that is what I used) for about 1 hour. Remove the bottom part of the wheel bearing with a puller or a separator. Then you can remove the ball joint. Some times you can hammer them out with a big mallet, but I used a 4"-2 finger puller. Put the fingers of the puller on the outside of the arm, and the bolt thread on the bearing and tighten it down and it will push out the bearing out and not screw up your suspension arm. If you smash the round end on the arm the bearing will no go back in so I suggest using the puller. To put it back in, make sure the grease port on the bearing and the one on the arm line up before you reinstall the bearing. You can buy a tool that will press them in but I did not. I guess I'm to cheap. I put a brick down and put a small peace of 2x4 side ways on a corner put the nut on the bolt of the bearing toward the end to make sure the threads did not get messed up, and lowered the truck down to put pressure on the 2x4. I put a peace of brass between the 2x4 and the bolt end with nut on and put pressure on it. Then I smacked the arm behind the bearing port to drive it in, (hay it worked). Then put everything back on in reverse. Make sure you grease them when your finished!


Well this will work.
__________________

Moto: I don't take sides --- #1 - V10 Club - Club Member

AKA....The Durango Section Godfather
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-12-2005, 08:51 AM
durangodie durangodie is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 23
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

http://durangoclub.com/forum/viewtop...ighlight=#5136 Try that if the link doesnt work ( Im computer stoopid) someone just asked the same question in the "Durango Owners Group" forum
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-16-2005, 04:31 PM
tst31's Avatar
tst31 tst31 is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Vehicle: 99 Dodge Durango 5.9L 4WD
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 66
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

Link works fine!!!! Thanks for the excellent info, should come in really handy. Looking forward to get the job done as soon as I get a day free.
Thanks again!!!
__________________
That which does not kill me, only makes me stronger!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-12-2006, 12:13 AM
jn2jhavens jn2jhavens is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 9
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

Here are the steps that I used to do this a couple of weeks ago on my 98 durango 4x4.
1. Remove front tire one side.
2. Remove center cap from rim of tire just removed.
3. Remove cotter key, castle nut cap and spring washer from the end of the axle.
4. Put the tire back on without the center cap on it. (Assuming stock rims)
5. Put vehicle back on the ground.
6. Loosen axle nut with vehicle on the ground. (I did not do this on one side and had to replace the whole drive axle assembly. I ruined one of the joints trying to break this bolt loose with the vehicle off the ground. $110 mistake you may not want to make.)
7. Re-remove the tire and support the vehicle.
8. Remove caliper and support it out of the way.
9. Remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the upper a-arm. (This will allow you to move the caliper and get it out of the way)
10. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
11. Remove bolts that hold the front wheel bearing in and remove the wheel bearing.
12. Remove all inner bolts (6 or 8 don't remember) from inside end of axle and remove axle.
13. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the knuckle from the upper ball joint.
14. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the knuckle from the lower ball joint.
15. Set steering knuckle aside.
16. Use air chisel and chisel off the three rivet heads on the upper ball joint.
17. Once heads are removed use sharp punch bit in air chisel and drive the rivets down and out, and remove upper ball joint.
18. Bolt new ball joint in place and torque to spec. (50 -60 ft-lbs)
19. Use ball joint remover and remove lower ball joint. ( The right tool here makes this part very easy, otherwise it can be difficult)
20. Press in new lower ball joint. (The right tool here makes this part very easy, otherwise it can be difficult)
21. Put steering knuckle back on and bolt it to both upper and lower ball joints. (Make sure brake line is run properly before completing this step)
22. Torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
23. Put wheel bearing back in and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
24. Put axle back in (slide into wheel bearing) and bolt up the inner bolts and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
25. Put axle nut back on and snug up, do not torque yet.
26. Put steering arm tie rod end back on and bolt it up and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
27. Put caliper back on and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
28. Put brake line clamp bolt back in.
29. Put tire back on and set vehicle on the ground without center cap in rim.
30. Torque the axle nut to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
31. Re-raise the vehicle and put the spring washer castle nut and cotter key back on the end of the axle.
32. Put center piece back on rim and put tire back on. Torque lug nuts to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
33. Set vehicle down and start the otherside.
Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-02-2007, 10:39 AM
ptrapper65 ptrapper65 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 40
Default RE: Ball Joint Replacement Procedure?

I just finished one side of my 2004 Dak. One suggestion to steps 1-7. I tool the tire off, removedcotter key, castle nut cap and spring washer from the end of the axle. Then I had my daughter step on the brake and I was able to break free the 32 mm nut. This saved putting the tire back on and lowering the jack, etc. When torquing the nuts back to 165 ft #'s, I did the same thing.

Another note... The lower BJ is a real pain in the As*. Of the 4 hours the project took (for one side), 1-1/2 hours was getting the lower joint out. I bought a press on ebay, but it was in tight. I even bent the press.

Quote:
ORIGINAL: jn2jhavens

Here are the steps that I used to do this a couple of weeks ago on my 98 durango 4x4.
1. Remove front tire one side.
2. Remove center cap from rim of tire just removed.
3. Remove cotter key, castle nut cap and spring washer from the end of the axle.
4. Put the tire back on without the center cap on it. (Assuming stock rims)
5. Put vehicle back on the ground.
6. Loosen axle nut with vehicle on the ground. (I did not do this on one side and had to replace the whole drive axle assembly. I ruined one of the joints trying to break this bolt loose with the vehicle off the ground. $110 mistake you may not want to make.)
7. Re-remove the tire and support the vehicle.
8. Remove caliper and support it out of the way.
9. Remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the upper a-arm. (This will allow you to move the caliper and get it out of the way)
10. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
11. Remove bolts that hold the front wheel bearing in and remove the wheel bearing.
12. Remove all inner bolts (6 or 8 don't remember) from inside end of axle and remove axle.
13. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the knuckle from the upper ball joint.
14. Use pickle fork (or your choice of tool) and drop the knuckle from the lower ball joint.
15. Set steering knuckle aside.
16. Use air chisel and chisel off the three rivet heads on the upper ball joint.
17. Once heads are removed use sharp punch bit in air chisel and drive the rivets down and out, and remove upper ball joint.
18. Bolt new ball joint in place and torque to spec. (50 -60 ft-lbs)
19. Use ball joint remover and remove lower ball joint. ( The right tool here makes this part very easy, otherwise it can be difficult)
20. Press in new lower ball joint. (The right tool here makes this part very easy, otherwise it can be difficult)
21. Put steering knuckle back on and bolt it to both upper and lower ball joints. (Make sure brake line is run properly before completing this step)
22. Torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
23. Put wheel bearing back in and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
24. Put axle back in (slide into wheel bearing) and bolt up the inner bolts and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
25. Put axle nut back on and snug up, do not torque yet.
26. Put steering arm tie rod end back on and bolt it up and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
27. Put caliper back on and torque to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
28. Put brake line clamp bolt back in.
29. Put tire back on and set vehicle on the ground without center cap in rim.
30. Torque the axle nut to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
31. Re-raise the vehicle and put the spring washer castle nut and cotter key back on the end of the axle.
32. Put center piece back on rim and put tire back on. Torque lug nuts to spec. (Sorry don't remember but it is in your chiltons)
33. Set vehicle down and start the otherside.
Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-25-2012, 08:28 PM
wallkicker wallkicker is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 1998 durango 5.2 slt
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 14
Default not enough room for axel to drop out

Hi, following thread on removing lower ball joints on 98 durango 4wd. I have rotors and caliper off , as well as the bearing hub . I took out the 6 bolts for the inner axel and it is free. I don't have clearance to remove the axel . The spindle on the wheel end is sticking through the knucke hole. Did I miss something? It sounds like the axel should just come out . Any help or comments are appreciated . Thanks in advance . Jim
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-26-2012, 02:14 AM
greasydriveway greasydriveway is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Vehicle: 2002 Durango 4.7
Location: Oregon
Posts: 64
Default

I unscrewed the bolts from the upper control arm to the upper ball joint, leaving the upper ball joint connected to the knuckle. It took me A WEEK to figure out how to press out the lower ball joint. I rented the press from autozone, and bent wrenches, cheaters, it was in there TIGHT. I eventually got a propane blowtorch from wal-mart for 15$ and after heating the lower control arm and bending more tools was able get it out with the combination of the blowtorch and the ball joint press.
The autozone lower ball joints were junk. After installing one, the boot just fell off. Anyway, have fun.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-26-2012, 12:43 PM
srch4me srch4me is offline
All Star
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Vehicle: '98 Durango SLT, 5.2L
Location: Richland, Washington
Posts: 967
camerageek
Send a message via Yahoo to srch4me Send a message via Skype™ to srch4me
Default

I removed my arms too replace them. To get the knuckle off you just got to remove the upper and lower ball joint castle nuts and the knuckle should lift right out. No need to pull the axle.


Posted from Dodgeforum.com App for Android
__________________
1998 Dodge Durango, 5.2L 4x4, BFG A/T KO
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-27-2012, 08:06 AM
wallkicker wallkicker is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 1998 durango 5.2 slt
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 14
Default

I did get one side done . I had to take axel out to get to lower ball joint . The lower ball joint pressed out ok . I had a little confusion as to how to press the new one in using auto zone rental . I basically did it the same way I took it out . This worked fine until the very end . The replacedments have a snap ring that goes on . The way I did it with press I think I compressed it a little and can't get snap ring on but the bearing is all the way up on the bottom . I am a little concerned about that . Can I spot weld it so it doest come out.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 10-16-2012, 08:00 AM
wallkicker wallkicker is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 1998 durango 5.2 slt
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 14
Default

I was on looking up some info on how to change inner tre and came across this. Thought I would update . I ended up getting things done properly . I had never done ball joints before and the durango makes it even a little more interesting . Thanks to everyones help I got er done . After doing side two , which was a lot easier with a little exp. , I took another look at side one that I couldint get the snap ring on . I basically didn't get it pressed in quite far enough . Did that and it went right on . A little scary and glad I fixed it . To people like myself who are doing it for the first time , it is doable just make sure you press the ball joint in all the way . I highly doubt I used the press in tool quite the way I was supposed to , but I made it work . Some one had mentioned an adapter kit to rent as well as the press . This probobly would have solved that issure as well . Going for shocks and inner tre next . Hope that does it till spring anyway . Thanks to any who contributed to my questions . It made all the difference and saved me a lot of money . Thanks again Jim
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:12 PM
John DeVault John DeVault is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
Default

i understand the 99 durango has pressed in lower ball-joints, but i'm finding a 50/50 split on whether my 2003 has the same, can anyone tell me for sure it has a vin of z 4x4/ AWD 5.9 thank you in advance!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-21-2013, 04:07 PM
Old_School's Avatar
Old_School Old_School is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Vehicle: 1998 Durango SLT
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,892
Old_School01981
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John DeVault View Post
i understand the 99 durango has pressed in lower ball-joints, but i'm finding a 50/50 split on whether my 2003 has the same, can anyone tell me for sure it has a vin of z 4x4/ AWD 5.9 thank you in advance!
All the 4x4 trucks 98-03 have pressed in lower ball joints.
__________________


Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2013, 04:07 PM
 
 
 
Reply




Tags
99, ball, durango, end, joint, lower, neon, procedure, remove, replacement, rod, spec, tie, torque, upper

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:58 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails