Hi there. Hopefully ya'll can help a brother out. I've got a 99 durango (5.2L) with ~175k. I just got done with a top end rebuild (gasket kit, spark plugs, serpentine belt, thermostat, coolant flush, oil change, pcv valve/hose). Finally got her all put back together, started up the first try. ran it 15-20 min 3 separate times checking temp etc. everything was normal. drove it for about 40 min before the headlights dimmed, gauges shut off, and finally died all together. redid ground on passenger valve cover, tightened ground on back of driver side head, redid wires to battery terminals. all wires hooked up correctly (yes i checked alternator wires) and battery is fully charged pulling 12 v when vehicle off. all i get when i turn the key is a constant click. sounds like starter, but is constant click instead of one click followed by nothing. possible solenoid? any and all suggestions welcome, im running out of ideas. and beer. thanks!

 

Typically that is a weak battery. What does your battery voltage drop to when you get that rapid clicking? If I were you I would disconnect the negative terminal and let the ecm relearn normal voltage after having that loose ground from the head. Then let us know where you are.

 

When i have the key on accessory, it still pulls 11.5 to 12 v. plus the battery is less than six months old. ill go see what it pulls when its clicking. also gonna see if i can start it across the solenoid. the confusing part is the multimeter pulls 12ish v consistently, trickle charger says it has a full charge, but battery gauge on the dash says less than 8. could the cold crank amps be shot? its only a 600 cold crank battery

 

Battery dropped to 4v when key was turned. Had battery tested, only drawing 60 cold crank amps. Other noticed problem was radio seems to be shorting out. Battery is on charger at autozone to see if it charges or kills it. Will update in a few hrs after trying charged or new battery

 

Sounds like a battery is in order for it. I wouldn't worry about the radio until you have a battery with good voltage in the truck. You shouldn't drop below 10.5 volts when cranking. After the battery replacement make sure you didn't kill the alternator. That it is putting out about 14 volts at 1000 rpm. If you are at the auto zone have them put it on the charging system tester to check your amp output

 

well gentlemen, she lives and runs smoother than when i bought her. as it turns out, upon disassembly, there didnt appear to be any trace whatsoever of exhaust manifold or intake manifold gaskets. that being said, original diagnosis (via pressure test/whatever test its called that finds oil in the coolant which said test was done by a shop) was blown head gasket. im 90% sure the head gaskets were okay and the problem was the intake plenum gasket which was very blown. either way, top end gasket kit, serpentine belt, thermostat, spark plugs/wires later she lives. next step is a new master cylinder and she'll be all kinds of solid. that being said, any tips on replacing a master cylinder would be much appreciated.

side note: from a reliable source, apparently remanning a master cylinder isnt difficult, but for the time and effort involved compared to the price of a new one, a new one has been recommended. thoughts?