Difference Between 2001 R/T Models & Other Facts & Questions
#1
03-21-2017, 03:43 PM
Difference Between 2001 R/T Models & Other Facts & Questions
Hi all,
So now I own 2 Durangos lol. I have a 2000 4.7 and I just picked up a 2001 5.9 R/T. I needed more towing capabilities. Trying to see if I can a few questions answered since I can't get a hold of the 2001 Factory Service Manual (Only the 2002)
Questions:
1. Which coolant? The 2002 mentions coolant with HOAT which is something like G5. But again this could be for 2002 and not 2001. I couldn't tell the color of the coolant in the reserve and can't seem to find the 2001 owners manual online which sucks! I want to flush out the coolant asap.
2. Anyone know the differences between 2001 R/T models? Thought mine had the transmission cooler but now I just checked the front and it does not.
3. Anyone have any experience on things to look out for with the 5.9s? Right now I am suspecting a failing CTM since the truck sounds the horn when I unlock it. Previous owner pulled the horn fuse, but I can't drive around without a horn in NJ, lol.
4. Recommended things to change? Right now I have the cooling system, oil (done), and the fluid in the front and rear boxes on the TO DO list. Then take the car in for an alignment.
So now I own 2 Durangos lol. I have a 2000 4.7 and I just picked up a 2001 5.9 R/T. I needed more towing capabilities. Trying to see if I can a few questions answered since I can't get a hold of the 2001 Factory Service Manual (Only the 2002)
Questions:
1. Which coolant? The 2002 mentions coolant with HOAT which is something like G5. But again this could be for 2002 and not 2001. I couldn't tell the color of the coolant in the reserve and can't seem to find the 2001 owners manual online which sucks! I want to flush out the coolant asap.
2. Anyone know the differences between 2001 R/T models? Thought mine had the transmission cooler but now I just checked the front and it does not.
3. Anyone have any experience on things to look out for with the 5.9s? Right now I am suspecting a failing CTM since the truck sounds the horn when I unlock it. Previous owner pulled the horn fuse, but I can't drive around without a horn in NJ, lol.
4. Recommended things to change? Right now I have the cooling system, oil (done), and the fluid in the front and rear boxes on the TO DO list. Then take the car in for an alignment.
Last edited by fcastro; 03-21-2017 at 04:28 PM.
#2
03-21-2017, 09:03 PM
1) I just buy the regular green stuff, have for the past 16 years.
2) The OEM tow package adds coolers.
3) If you mean unlock with the remote, look into the beep/nobeep aspects of the CTM using the secret codes in the owners manual. I used to suppress the beep, then later added it back.
4) Also check and maybe change: trans fluid, t-case fluid. Check brake fluid and power steering fluid. Verify the HVAC works properly, doesn't need service.
2) The OEM tow package adds coolers.
3) If you mean unlock with the remote, look into the beep/nobeep aspects of the CTM using the secret codes in the owners manual. I used to suppress the beep, then later added it back.
4) Also check and maybe change: trans fluid, t-case fluid. Check brake fluid and power steering fluid. Verify the HVAC works properly, doesn't need service.
#3
03-22-2017, 06:39 AM
THE ULTI-MOD
fcastro, welcome aboard, where at in NJ? im also in NJ.
As far as your questions i think JeeperDon hit the nail on the head, standard prestone green all vehicle coolant is just fine. as for the owners manual you used to be able to download the PDF from dodges website, not sure if its still there or if the trucks are too old now . . . but its worth a look.
As far as your questions i think JeeperDon hit the nail on the head, standard prestone green all vehicle coolant is just fine. as for the owners manual you used to be able to download the PDF from dodges website, not sure if its still there or if the trucks are too old now . . . but its worth a look.
#4
03-22-2017, 08:28 AM
I haven't owned an 01, I think the trans cooler (if it has one) is in front of the condenser on those? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. But on 98/99 they were behind the condenser/in front if the radiator. Mine is a 98 5.9 factory tow package and mine came with one. Someone had replaced it with an aftermarket unit, I went and pulled a factory cooler from the salvage yard myself.
#5
03-23-2017, 03:04 AM
Good thinking, mopar is charging for the owners manual online which is nuts. Luckily found the owners manual in the glove compartment.
So even though its an R/T, that doesn't mean it includes the tranny cooler. I wonder if the stock one which is available at rock is better then the smaller aftermarket units?
Narrowed down alarm issue, after looking at the manual. When I disarm my truck with the FOB, the horn beats 3 times (VTSS tamper alert feature). This indicates that one of the sensors has been tripped. Since it always happens, I either have a bad sensor or the CTM is going south. This is going be hard to diagnose without a DRBIII.
Cool I am in Morris county, and you?
Yes it should be in front according to the parts manual pdf.
Looking over the manual came across 2 interesting things.
1. The manual originally said to use Premium fuel 91 in the R/T, but then there was an addendum yellow sheet that says 87 regular octane. Crazy no?
2. I have always run Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic in my cars, according to the range chart it just fits the temperature's in NJ year round. The manual says that 10w-30 preferred granted that's for regular oil curious as to what others are running if you are running synthetic.
So even though its an R/T, that doesn't mean it includes the tranny cooler. I wonder if the stock one which is available at rock is better then the smaller aftermarket units?
Narrowed down alarm issue, after looking at the manual. When I disarm my truck with the FOB, the horn beats 3 times (VTSS tamper alert feature). This indicates that one of the sensors has been tripped. Since it always happens, I either have a bad sensor or the CTM is going south. This is going be hard to diagnose without a DRBIII.
Cool I am in Morris county, and you?
Yes it should be in front according to the parts manual pdf.
Looking over the manual came across 2 interesting things.
1. The manual originally said to use Premium fuel 91 in the R/T, but then there was an addendum yellow sheet that says 87 regular octane. Crazy no?
2. I have always run Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic in my cars, according to the range chart it just fits the temperature's in NJ year round. The manual says that 10w-30 preferred granted that's for regular oil curious as to what others are running if you are running synthetic.
#6
03-23-2017, 07:34 AM
THE ULTI-MOD
1) run 87 in it since the manual says so, if you have a problem (pinging/knocking ect) try 89 then 93 (i have yet to find 91 regularly in NJ except at sunoco stations and they are all crazy expensive)
2) synthetic will flow easier than conventional either weight will work fine for the engine, since 10w30 is preferred i would put that in it, but neither one will hurt your car.
Morris county. . . where abouts? i grew up in Morris county, Im living in Union county now.
2) synthetic will flow easier than conventional either weight will work fine for the engine, since 10w30 is preferred i would put that in it, but neither one will hurt your car.
Morris county. . . where abouts? i grew up in Morris county, Im living in Union county now.
#7
03-23-2017, 08:21 AM
Agreed on the octane. I got my R/T new (April 2nd 2001) and it also had the insert for 87. I think they de-tuned the R/T to a more SRT tuning in 2001. I ran 87 fine until I pumped up the tuning with a Hypertec programmer later in 2001. I've been on midgrade since. The motor doesn't have a knock sensor, so you'll be able to tell if you need more octane.