There seems to be a bit of confusion. I’m not sure if this confusion is just a typo, or what has happened. You said an 11 (which is a crank shaft sensor) but said a CAM sensor was changed. Can you give the original P code that was obtained via the scan tool? AS I mentioned before, the CAM & crank work hand in hand for the spark timing but are different sensors, and in different locations. If you can also get me the part number that was installed and the location where it was installed (top of engine or bottom of engine is good enough), I will have a clearer picture of what is going on.
I will tell you this… if you have an 11 now (via the MIL) the car w/n start and an 11 alone will not give you a “check engine light.” If the crank sensor has not been changed, this is an easy fix (although you will need to jack the car to get under where the sensor is).
A word of caution, when removing the electrical connector, use care not to break the plug lock or your dad will have to get one from the dealer and change it. Due to heat oil and vibration in the area, the lock may break very easily. If it does, let me know and I can help with the part number etc (mine broke and I had to do this very thing!). If it does break, make sure to change it…you don’t want this plug to come loose while you are on the road (remember you need to jack the car to get to it).
P.S. I was just re-reading you original post and I’m pretty sure you can rule out a MAP sensor at this time because you mentioned “no spark.” A sticking MAP sensor will cause the engine to “get out of time”, but you would still have a spark. The fuel pressure is still relevant though. If the ASD circuit is at fault, you would have no fuel or spark.
Last edited by kurts2; 05-11-2009 at 01:22 PM.
Reason: add PS