Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Cars > Dodge Intrepid > 1st Gen Intrepid
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1st Gen Intrepid 1993 through 1997 Intrepids

Engine stopped running while driving

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-30-2008, 05:08 PM
Willfargo Willfargo is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1
Default Engine stopped running while driving

Engine suddenly shut off. Will turn over but not start. Sprayed starter fluid into throttle body but did not even cause a sputter. Think something is wrong with ignition. Guys at Advance Auto parts say to replace Crankshaft Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor. Any ideas?
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-01-2009, 11:05 PM
tgrfn2 tgrfn2 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Vehicle: 1994 Dodge Intrepid ES
Posts: 6
Default Crank position sensor

My sensor went out slowly. The car had a bad "miss" from time to time. I tried many things to cure the problem. It shut off twice. One time it took a while to get it to start. I used a volt meter to check the Crank Sensor. Hayne's manual 25025 page 6-13. The voltage was half what it should be. I changed my sensor and have had no more problems.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-12-2009, 02:30 PM
kurts2 kurts2 is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,002
Default

Yes a crank (also CAM) sensor can cause this. Also look at the MAP sensor (they stick).

I had the crank sensor go bad a while ago and had NO engine light. I did have a code 11 with the key trick though. Replaced it and started right up.

I had a CAM sensor fail in the past (twice) and both times I had an engine light with the correct code.

When my MAP died (three of those) I never got a light (they stick internaly at an incorrect value). These are easy to figure out though. Just unplug the electrical connector and the computer will supply a default middle-of the-road value (called limp in mode). The engine will not preform great (with a heavy foot etc), but it can get you home.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-17-2009, 02:01 PM
dodgewilltravel's Avatar
dodgewilltravel dodgewilltravel is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Vehicle: 2001 318 1500
Location: IL
Posts: 63
Default no start after running

my wifes car wouldnt start ehen it was -36 (96 3.3 intrepid) put new plugs in got it started but would die coming to a stop, I disconnected tha batt turned the key 3 times hooked batt back up and tried it I heard a pop now car wont start just cranks anyone have an answer.
__________________
01 1500 2x4, 285x75 on 8x16 on crager black rims
dual out the side w/glass pacs, Bully steps, cobra/dual
antenas, 14x3 a/c, Rough country streeing stabalizer, 180# air shocks in front w/2" spacers, 2" blocks in rear.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-17-2009, 04:04 PM
dodgewilltravel's Avatar
dodgewilltravel dodgewilltravel is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Vehicle: 2001 318 1500
Location: IL
Posts: 63
Default how to bring codes up

96 3.3 intrepid How do you bring codes up using the key, and where are they located on the dash.
__________________
01 1500 2x4, 285x75 on 8x16 on crager black rims
dual out the side w/glass pacs, Bully steps, cobra/dual
antenas, 14x3 a/c, Rough country streeing stabalizer, 180# air shocks in front w/2" spacers, 2" blocks in rear.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-19-2009, 02:32 AM
tgrfn2 tgrfn2 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Vehicle: 1994 Dodge Intrepid ES
Posts: 6
Default Engine Codes

This should have been under a new heading. Here are the instructions and a list of the codes.
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-28-2009, 05:23 PM
markhall markhall is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 3
Default

Hello, I'm Mark Hall, and I have a Chrysler Concorde 93 (close enough to 1st gen intrepid :-). Car has an intermittent problem - will shut off when driving. All guages go dead (lights stay on!). 2 times this happened and I was able to restart while in motion (kinda scary on interstate). Seems to die when slightly letting off of accelerator. On 3 occasions came back to car after parking for 30 minutes, and would not start even though battery was strong and cranked vigorously. Eventually fired up just fine (5 minutes of intermittent cranking). Not a flooding problem (no smell and very little throttle applied during cranking). Last night ran very sluggishly, seemed like only 2 cylinders were firing. But when I *reduced* the throttle, it would perk up again, then bog when I added more throttle. Seems sensitive to wet weather (and I live in Seattle, so that's a lot). Engine codes were 12, 21, 11, in that order. The above list list of codes is very helpful, but where should i start? Any instructions to replace sensors? Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-31-2009, 10:46 AM
kurts2 kurts2 is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,002
Default

Ignore the 12. Change the crank sensor. Before you clear the codes (take to autozone or such and use their OBD tool for free to reset/read), use the tool to determine which O2 sensor is flagging as bad (there are 4 on the 3.5 engine). Then ensure the 11 is gone (via key trick...note, the 11 will not cause an engine light nor can it be read by an OBD tool) if not post back (either wire intermitant, PCM, or timing belt issue). For the O2, try running a cleaner first. If still bad change the indicated O2 sensor.

NOTE...If you are going to disconnect the battery when changing the CRANK sensor (should), read the code FIRST with the OBD scan tool, otherwise after the battery has been disconnected for more then 10 min, the codes will clear out of memory.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-17-2009, 07:59 PM
khooper khooper is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 58
Default

It could be fuel pump, fuel filter or out of fuel. To be certain, you can always use a code scanner to see if there are any stored codes.
_____________________________________________
Tips: Always check the Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 05-08-2009, 04:23 PM
Fqnsilly Fqnsilly is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3
Default

Hey, I'm new and know nothing about cars at all. I have a 1996 Intrepid that died on the highway. My dad had to come rescue me, towed it to his house, and used a diagnostic tool to discover that the cam position sensor was bad. He replaced that but now he is getting an error that says "cam shaft position sensor circuit malfunction". He said he has tried everything he can think of and even left the battery unplugged overnight to see if it would reset. He's getting no spark (not sure what that means, but I am a recently single mom with no clue and no money to take this to a mechanic). Anyone have any ideas or advice? I would appreciate it.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 05-09-2009, 06:46 AM
kurts2 kurts2 is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,002
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fqnsilly View Post
Hey, I'm new and know nothing about cars at all. I have a 1996 Intrepid that died on the highway. My dad had to come rescue me, towed it to his house, and used a diagnostic tool to discover that the cam position sensor was bad. He replaced that but now he is getting an error that says "cam shaft position sensor circuit malfunction". He said he has tried everything he can think of and even left the battery unplugged overnight to see if it would reset. He's getting no spark (not sure what that means, but I am a recently single mom with no clue and no money to take this to a mechanic). Anyone have any ideas or advice? I would appreciate it.
Yes, if there is a CAM circuit malfunction, you will not get a spark. It sounds as the code is valid. There are only three things in a "CAM Circuit"; the sensor, the computer, or the wire. It could be the sensor he put in was bad, he put in a wrong sensor (the plug for the CAM and crank sensor are the same...I think the crank plug comes off at a 90 deg angle and the CAM is straight off though), broke/shorted a wire or smoked the PCM (Computer). One last thought, the crank sensor is tied in for the starting circuit, and although the PCM has a separate code, I think it may be on the same test circuit...I will need to look (there could be an erroneous code issue).

Before any assumptions are made, what engine do you have? What exactly were/are the codes (the first time, and the new code)?

Kurt
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-09-2009, 09:18 PM
Fqnsilly Fqnsilly is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3
Default

Thank you for your reply. It was definitely the camshaft position sensor. The code we're getting is 11 55 and when we put the old sensor back in the code changes to 12 55. I have a 3.5 engine and it's an automatic if that helps.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-09-2009, 11:38 PM
kurts2 kurts2 is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,002
Default

OK, I assume that the 11 & 12 (with 55) are key codes AKA MIL codes (obtained via the key trick and the check engine light flashing, not a OBD II reader). The 11 means a bad crank sensor (under the car on the passenger side) and a 12 is one of those you can ignore. The 55 means end of codes, and is just a way to let you know if there are no codes, that it is on line sensing no codes.

If you get an 11 with the new sensor and a 12 with the old, then the old is ok and the new is faulty. This being the case, there are a number of faults that are not detected correctly by the computer that will cause the engine not to start.

First I need to know, what lead to the replacement of the sensor if you only had a 12 & 55? Are you sure of your reply? Yes the engine size is important and now I know.

!st thing to try is leave the sensor in that gives no fault (the 12 /55 one). Unplug the MAP sensor and try to crank it. If ok, replace it.

If not check for fuel pressure at the rail (you may need to get a fuel pressure gauge for 15$ at a part store eventually, but for now just ensure there is pressure at the rail Schrader valve).

Lets go from there...let me know,

Kurt

PS I hope you have a happy mother's day tomorow!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 05-11-2009, 01:38 AM
Fqnsilly Fqnsilly is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3
Unhappy

My dad originally used a diagnostic tool that told him the camshaft position sensor was bad. That's why he bought a new one and tried replacing it. Then the same diagnostic tool told him he was getting a camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction.

The 11 and 12 codes were done with the key in the ignition by someone else when my dad wasn't there with his little diagnostic tool. So I'm not sure if that means we're all messed up now or what.

When it originally stopped on the highway nothing at all would happen when we tried to start it. Since my dad replaced the camshaft position sensor the car does actually turn over but it doesn't catch. So something is different, just not different enough.

I have passed on your advice about the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure and we're going to try that tomorrow. Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate how clear and detailed it is.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-11-2009, 01:16 PM
kurts2 kurts2 is offline
Record Breaker
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,002
Default

You’re welcome.

There seems to be a bit of confusion. I’m not sure if this confusion is just a typo, or what has happened. You said an 11 (which is a crank shaft sensor) but said a CAM sensor was changed. Can you give the original P code that was obtained via the scan tool? AS I mentioned before, the CAM & crank work hand in hand for the spark timing but are different sensors, and in different locations. If you can also get me the part number that was installed and the location where it was installed (top of engine or bottom of engine is good enough), I will have a clearer picture of what is going on.

I will tell you this… if you have an 11 now (via the MIL) the car w/n start and an 11 alone will not give you a “check engine light.” If the crank sensor has not been changed, this is an easy fix (although you will need to jack the car to get under where the sensor is).

A word of caution, when removing the electrical connector, use care not to break the plug lock or your dad will have to get one from the dealer and change it. Due to heat oil and vibration in the area, the lock may break very easily. If it does, let me know and I can help with the part number etc (mine broke and I had to do this very thing!). If it does break, make sure to change it…you don’t want this plug to come loose while you are on the road (remember you need to jack the car to get to it).

Kurt


P.S. I was just re-reading you original post and I’m pretty sure you can rule out a MAP sensor at this time because you mentioned “no spark.” A sticking MAP sensor will cause the engine to “get out of time”, but you would still have a spark. The fuel pressure is still relevant though. If the ASD circuit is at fault, you would have no fuel or spark.

Last edited by kurts2; 05-11-2009 at 01:22 PM.. Reason: add PS
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 05-30-2009, 03:22 PM
chill1954 chill1954 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1
Default stopped running

my 95 intrepid stopped running on the highway also. my wife was doing 75 mph when it shut down, guess i should have stopped here first. spent the last 2 days trying to find the solution to no avail. i know ill be back for more good advice.

thanks for all the great advice
hoping it didnt fry the pcm

chester hill
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-01-2012, 05:41 PM
willys33 willys33 is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1
Default Dokota blown asd shut down fuse

I found the problem. My dakota was blowing the auto shut down fuse. traced red/white wires from black relay box and found many frayed places and repaired. It turned out to be the red/white wire burnt buy the egr tube on the passenger side down from rear of valve. Taped it and started finally. took me 3 fuses blown. If keeps blowing the asd fuse, the red/white wire is grounded somewhere. keep looking.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 04-02-2012, 03:48 PM
Bridget Nelson Bridget Nelson is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Unhappy 96 dodge/plymouth neon automatic shuts off while going slow

i have a 96 neon,

when i pull into a parking spot, my car just shuts off and at times i will not know. the radio is still going and eveything seems to be on. the wheel locks up so i cant turn usually how i know when it turns off. i turn it back over and starts up usually totally fine other times it chugs.

what could the cause be? costless told me it could be fuel filter. but richies says carbon problem.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-11-2012, 07:50 PM
Thane Stark Thane Stark is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1
Default

I have owned two Intrepids for over ten years. They are great cars 90% of the sudden engine stoppages are to do with the relay switches under the hood make sure relay compartment is dry and clean
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 10-18-2014, 09:03 PM
Dodge4lyfe's Avatar
Dodge4lyfe Dodge4lyfe is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Vehicle: 1995 Dodge Dakota SLT Club Cab
Location: Wausau WI
Posts: 287
Mr Deep
Send a message via Yahoo to Dodge4lyfe
Default Randomly stalls

I have a 1995 Intrepid and it will randomly die out while driving. I have noticed that if you turn the key off then on again that it will not restart unless you hear the fuel pump prime. I have already replaced the fuel pump and assorted fuses and relays and it still does it. I am thinking a wire or sensor is acting up, as it seems to do it more if its raining or humid out. Where should I look next? I am fairly good at working on cars but this has me at a loss...
__________________
It's not fun 'til you start breaking stuff...
1995 Dodge Dakota SLT Club Cab, 5.2L V8, 4X4, Auto.
1995 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6
1998 Dodge Neon Competition, 2.0L SOHC
Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2014, 09:03 PM
 
 
 
Reply




Tags
2000, cam, dodge, driving, engine, intrepid, limpin, mode, neon, ram, running, sensor, shuts, stopped, suddenly

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:20 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails