I have an intermittent problem with my '94 Dodge Intrepid ES 3.5 liter V6. Often, at start-up, there will be no instruments or gauges working (Tach, Speedo, fuel guage, any dumby lights). The engine seems to be in "limp in" mode. Check Engine light on. Shifts are either at a high RPM... If at all, I'm not sure because I was in a 30mph zone. When this isn't happening, the car runs like a top. I checked the codes tonight. There are more than Western Union ever sent before the telephone was invented.
12, Direct battery input to PCM disconnected
44, battery temp sensor input voltage below an acceptable level
66, No Messages recieved from Transmission control module
25, shorted or open condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits
51, a lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor
33, A/C pressure sensor voltage high or low
32, An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit
27, 27, Injector #5 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal
51, a lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor
33, A/C pressure sensor voltage high or low
25, a shorted or open condition detedted in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits
21, O2 sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range
27, Injector #5 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal
55. end of codes
A quick look at the meaning of some of them indicate to me a possible PCM failure. I'm thinking that if it was a power/wiring supply problem to the PCM that I wouldn't get any (or at least not so many) codes. And the fact that it will correct itself all at once rules out individual components
Any input? Would you agree with my assessment?
To replace the PCM, what do I have to match up? Can I get one from the junk yard? Do I just have to get the same year and engine? Does it control more than that so I would have to match that up too? Or would I have to get it from the dealer?

Please help!
Thanks,
Al

 

Well, I replaced the PCM today with one from the junk yard - I mean Automotive Recycling Center. Same problem. Back to the books, study the wire diagrams, I know there is an answer.....

 

Hey i had a ton of electrical problems and PCM problems and i took it to the dealer and they fixed it. i was just about to give up on the car.

 

Today I spent 7 hours tracing and checking wires. I removed all ground wires I could find, cleaned and reattached them. I took the sheave off the wire bundle from the PCM under the radiator and looked for damage to any wires. There's a lot of wires there. None of them looked bad. Tried to see if wiggling any wires affected the problem. Didn't seem to make a difference. Now I'm wondering if it is possible the TCM could cause this problem. I could understand a bad TCM affecting the shift (obviously), the gear indicator lights, the speedo and tach...But could it affect the gas gauge, MIL, seatbelt and other instrument panel lights?

 

Nickoman01,
I have a real problem taking an intermittent problem to any shop. Unless they can experience the problem, there often isn't anything they can do except rack up the hours. I can replace a lot of parts for the price of just a half a days labor. Of course, they might have experienced a similar problem or get lucky and have it done in an hour, I am just not ready to take that gamble.

What did they do to your car to correct the problem?
Al

 

it took them 2 weeks. i had a bad cranks sensor that was frying my computer systems. they didn't know that so they started with a new pcm. it got fried, so they did another that got fryed and at that point the whole gauges didn't function. and sometimes it wouldn't start. they continued to mess with it until finally they replaced the pcm and the crank sensor, and it fried the cruise control system, so they replaced that.

i was so pissed off at the car and the dealer because i was without my brand new car (bought used with 33k miles) for 2 weeks for no apparent reason. they finally fixed it, and Ive had other problems, but none with electrical system since they fixed it. now the thing is i Had a 36k warranty and i was at 33 so it didn't cost me anything. thats where our situations differ. the only reason i recommended the dealer is because they did find the problem and eliminate it and i have been problem free with electrical since.

mine is a second gen, but i also had check engine light and error codes up the ***.

 

I now know that it isn't the Transaxle Control Module. I replaced it today - $55 from Johns Auto Salvage. I started to get optimistic when the fourth time I turned the key to "on" it still had gauges light up for me. That optimism went right into the toilet on the fifth try when the guages didn't come to life. I found a post on another forum where the person had the exact symptoms I had. Of course, he never followed up and let them know what worked to fix the problem. I won't do that to you. When I find the problem, and I will find the problem, I'll let you know.

 

yeah please do let us know exactly what it is.

 

sounds like a melted fuse box to me, remove the fuse box and checked all the connections on the back of the box, they tend to melt at times

 

Thanks Fender, I took a week off to go snowmobiling. But before I did that I tried pulling the BCM out. I took the cover off it and saw a bit of corrosion or build-up around a few components of the circuit board. It was a Sunday night, so I couldn't try getting a replacement BCM from the Junk yard. I sprayed the board down with "wire dryer" and brushed the corrosion off with a clean, shortened, acid brush. My wife drove it the week I was gone. The problems seem to be appearing less frequently. And the three MIL codes I am getting now are 32 EGR system failure, 51 right rear fuel system lean, and 66 No CCD messages from TCM or BCM. Will check out tomorrow.