1 of the reasons i dont care for drumk brakes at all is because of a few neons i have had in the past...
once the shoe gets so worn down, the pad would come loose and jam between the shoe backing and the drum...thus locking up the rear tire...
this problem doesnt happen with rear disc brakes
FYI the swap will make your stopping distance longer
I must respectfully disagree with this statement.
My '97 ACR came from the factory with four wheel discs, and I converted my '96 Coupe to four wheel discs last winter. The Coupe's stopping distance is at least 20 feet shorter than it was with the rear drums, and is nearly identical to the ACR's. (Both of these cars are specifically built for autocrossing and are not street legal.)
I did an unofficial braking distance test at my local test track (a fresh asphalt service drive next to the I-96 freeway) and stopped from 60 mph in just 105 feet ... with Hawk HP+ front pads, HPS rear pads and 205/50R15 Hankook RS2-Z212 tires. With our new Toyo R1R tires, I'm betting we could be in under 100 feet.
As to the master cylinders, the drum brake proportioning valves go 50 psi higher before kicking in as compared to the factory's disc brake rear proportioning valves. Either way, you must me aware of potential rear brake lockup issues (hence the "weaker" rear brake pads on my cars). Do NOT put HP+ or simliar pads on the rear. They have way too much bite and will cause brake induced oversteer issues. Stock-type metallic pads would be a good, safe starting point.
Note: Ceramic pads are great for keeping your wheels clean, but their stopping power are mediocre at best. If you want good stopping power, buy a good brand of semi-metallics.
Jim
__________________
"Tough times don't last ... tough people do."
http://www.detroit-scca.org/news/solo05e3_pics/bigimages/STS65_NeonACR_JKidd
My '97 ACR came from the factory with four wheel discs, and I converted my '96 Coupe to four wheel discs last winter. The Coupe's stopping distance is at least 20 feet shorter than it was with the rear drums, and is nearly identical to the ACR's. (Both of these cars are specifically built for autocrossing and are not street legal.)
I did an unofficial braking distance test at my local test track (a fresh asphalt service drive next to the I-96 freeway) and stopped from 60 mph in just 105 feet ... with Hawk HP+ front pads, HPS rear pads and 205/50R15 Hankook RS2-Z212 tires. With our new Toyo R1R tires, I'm betting we could be in under 100 feet.
As to the master cylinders, the drum brake proportioning valves go 50 psi higher before kicking in as compared to the factory's disc brake rear proportioning valves. Either way, you must me aware of potential rear brake lockup issues (hence the "weaker" rear brake pads on my cars). Do NOT put HP+ or simliar pads on the rear. They have way too much bite and will cause brake induced oversteer issues. Stock-type metallic pads would be a good, safe starting point.
Note: Ceramic pads are great for keeping your wheels clean, but their stopping power are mediocre at best. If you want good stopping power, buy a good brand of semi-metallics.
Jim
im talking about cars that swap OEM drums to rear discs.
Ive done this swap before and my stoping distance was longer with the discs. if you dont belive me, try it and makeup your own mind.
So do you believe that changing the master cylinder would disprove your theory?
Yep there are different Master cylinders as takes more force to drive the smaller disk pads vers the larger drum pads.
Master cylinders for my second gen. using a power front disk with rear drum part is 5015-149AA (manual brakes is 5015-150AA) where 4 Wheel disk is 5069-001AA and 4 disk w/antilock (traction control?) is 5015-224AA (or if an export then it is 5015-224AA)
The reservoir is the same regardless of Master cylinder.
As well as the proportioning valve need to be swapped.... 5015-181AA to a 4 disk 5015-182AA
So thus he would be correct. If you did not swap the above items then less force would that what is actually needed would be send to the rear as it still thinks you have DRUM that are easier to apply - than the disk pads.
FYI: Part needed on top of that are:
Calipers:
5014-784AA
5014-785AA
Roters: 4509-553AC x2
Pad: 5011-630AA x2
Sheild:
4762-684
4762-685
Adapter used w/Disk calipers:
4762-684
4762-685
PLUS complete EBrake for above (about 12 seaprate parts) - I can't find a number for a complete setup.
There are no special brake lines needed - but would suggest to replace the soft line from the wheel to hard line....4509-802AC & 4509-803AC
To start, I don't really do "mods" as I want my 95 as my DD and I love it the way it is.
However, if there was a mod I would consider, it would be rear disk brakes. So that said here is my two cents on this. If you are going to spend the bucks to swap it all out, why would you cheap out and not at least replace the proportioning valves? Hell, I would even go so far to say you can find a master cylinder from a junk yard (likely the same car you got the other parts from if you go that route) and rebuild it pretty cheaply so why go cheap and not have the proper amount of stopping power for you should get for all the work done?
After reading this thread (and the others before it), it sounds like you CAN just change out the rear drums with rear disks and be fine, so the debate about stopping power/distance will rage on, but in the end, go cheap, or go all in, your choice.
RE: how do i convert my neon to rear disk brakes?
shhh"
