got me a 2.4! how should i build it exactly for turbo?
i was thinking about just getting the oem srt4 pistons, rods, and rings set on modern for 339 dollars. at 8.0 compression ratio whats my max boost on those? the only prob is that i wanted to run a .02 overbore and thats not an option for those oem pistons on modern. what would be the best set up. also what cams should i use? can i use the stock 2.4 stratus cams or my 2.0 dohc cams or should i invest in the crane 14s. put it this way after i sell my bike ill have about 2 thousand to work with but keep in mind i still need to peice together the srt turbo
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97 2dr mtx w/ 2001 2.4L enigine .020 over, no balance shafts, ross 8:1 comp. pistons, eagle rods, fully p&p head & im, 2.0 cams, big turbonetics turbo on 17psi for now, fmic, srt stg 1 injectors, spool boy mod, 4 puck racing clutch 2400lb pres. plate, no ac/ps componets. I WANA BUY AN INTAKE MANIFOLD
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What I would do is srt-4 pistons, rods, rings, oil pump, remove balance assem, have crank balanced and polished, hot tanked block, honed, arp head studs. Use the 2.0 cams. crane #12 would be ideal for turbo. Boost isnt really a big deal, its the power on the rods and pistons. I think they are good up to around 350 hp and 300 tq. Which will mean you need a strong clutch, some good axles, and maybe some sticky tires so you move. I would go 15psi with a stock srt-4 turbo and go from there. I would use atleast stage 1 injectors.
What I would do is srt-4 pistons, rods, rings, oil pump, remove balance assem, have crank balanced and polished, hot tanked block, honed, arp head studs. Use the 2.0 cams. crane #12 would be ideal for turbo. Boost isnt really a big deal, its the power on the rods and pistons. I think they are good up to around 350 hp and 300 tq. Which will mean you need a strong clutch, some good axles, and maybe some sticky tires so you move. I would go 15psi with a stock srt-4 turbo and go from there. I would use atleast stage 1 injectors.
The stock rods and pistons can handle a good deal, over 400+ hp, you just need to also get a tunning devise, if you go with the stage 1 inj they still run rich, like 10.0-10.5 a/fr's. If you are sticking to your trans yea get better axles and a better clutch, unless you can come across a SRT trans then you will be fine with just getting a better clutch, stock SRT axles are good for 500+hp. 15psi is a good starting point, the max it can effienently run up to is 20. But like what was said you'll need the oil and water pummp for a SRT they are a higer volume, due to needing more flow and better cooling from the heat from the turbo. Cams its up to you, the 2.0L ones have a little better power band but without cam gears they can make that much.
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Old set up: dyno 303hp, 388 tqr w/ S2, full bolt ons and race gas+meth
ok cool but i really wanted a .020 overbore for 2 reasons one for more power and 2 to clean up the cylinder walls so there perfectly smooth
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97 2dr mtx w/ 2001 2.4L enigine .020 over, no balance shafts, ross 8:1 comp. pistons, eagle rods, fully p&p head & im, 2.0 cams, big turbonetics turbo on 17psi for now, fmic, srt stg 1 injectors, spool boy mod, 4 puck racing clutch 2400lb pres. plate, no ac/ps componets. I WANA BUY AN INTAKE MANIFOLD
You'd get more from a good tune than overboring the block. What type of build are you going after? Anything close to 350hp, and after market rods and pistons should be considered. Several have made more power on stock parts, but that does not mean you should. Build for the safe side, as you are not likely to be driving on it.
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FS: Ported sohc heads for sale $255 shipped
true, just hone out the cylinders then get a SAFC 2 or a Neo from apexi and get someone to tune it, or if you really want to get the most out of it get a diablo predetor and really get the tune right, course then you need to pay for the dyno time to get everything dialed in, but if you have that kind of money I say go for it, if not get a SAFC2 or Neo, if you go to the SRTforums they are usually always someone selling either one.
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Old set up: dyno 303hp, 388 tqr w/ S2, full bolt ons and race gas+meth
im not lookin for that much hp. lik i said i only have 2 thousand to spend on it. maybe 3 thousand. but im def. wanting turbo so im only looking at like 250 to like 290 somewhere in there
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97 2dr mtx w/ 2001 2.4L enigine .020 over, no balance shafts, ross 8:1 comp. pistons, eagle rods, fully p&p head & im, 2.0 cams, big turbonetics turbo on 17psi for now, fmic, srt stg 1 injectors, spool boy mod, 4 puck racing clutch 2400lb pres. plate, no ac/ps componets. I WANA BUY AN INTAKE MANIFOLD
well a stock SRT only puts out 235-240 wheel, if your looking for up to 290hp, you'll need stage 2 inj, 3 bar map, cai, 3" tbe, and a mbc. A maxed out stock turbo/head and valve train are good for 300hp.
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Old set up: dyno 303hp, 388 tqr w/ S2, full bolt ons and race gas+meth
well i was conidering gettin my head done a our local engine lab. the only problem is i really dont know what to ask to get done there. port an polish? oversize valve? i just really dont know too much about heads. im almost certain i will be getting crane 14's before they sell out and the stiffer valve springs. but other than that idk for the head
o and whats a 3 bar map? also idk what a mbc is.
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97 2dr mtx w/ 2001 2.4L enigine .020 over, no balance shafts, ross 8:1 comp. pistons, eagle rods, fully p&p head & im, 2.0 cams, big turbonetics turbo on 17psi for now, fmic, srt stg 1 injectors, spool boy mod, 4 puck racing clutch 2400lb pres. plate, no ac/ps componets. I WANA BUY AN INTAKE MANIFOLD
A 3 bar MAP (manifold absolute pressure sensor), it alows you to boost higher then 16psi, with out it youll get a overboost code. A MBC is a manuel boost controller, good for boosting higher then a stock waste gate. Just a port and polish will do, you only need bigger valve if your flowing alot of air like with a bigger turbo 50trim+. Cranes 14 are good cams, nice power band, alot of people run these. I have Brian Crower stage 3's in mine, nice lobey idle. Turbos love to breath and so do engines, the more air your flowing the more power, most see with a good port job is about 25whp, course with a cnc port job every runner is the same and flows the same, were as just a reg port job they can be a tade different. Springs are good, but with 14s the factory ones work good with them, now if you were going the 16,18s yea you need the stiffer springs. Any more question let me know
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Old set up: dyno 303hp, 388 tqr w/ S2, full bolt ons and race gas+meth