96 Dodge Neon - No Spark, No Start
#11
#12
I am getting fuel to the rail and I hear the fuel pump turning on. I am getting power to the center wire.
I will go through and check all the fuses one more time (I could probably do that blindfolded for as many times as have done it in the past week)!
Since the other two wires are not receiving a ground, could it possibly be a bad ground at the PCM connectors?
I will go through and check all the fuses one more time (I could probably do that blindfolded for as many times as have done it in the past week)!
Since the other two wires are not receiving a ground, could it possibly be a bad ground at the PCM connectors?
#13
Hello again,
I took the PCM out to check the grounds. When I unplugged the connectors, the one plug that handles pin 41-80 is literally covered in a clear yellowish substance ... it almost looks oily. The pins where the connector plugs into are covered in it as well, I just don't think that this is normal, perhaps this is because of something that burned out in the PCM (a capacitor)? It's only on the one connector, the other is dry and looks fine.
Any ideas?
I took the PCM out to check the grounds. When I unplugged the connectors, the one plug that handles pin 41-80 is literally covered in a clear yellowish substance ... it almost looks oily. The pins where the connector plugs into are covered in it as well, I just don't think that this is normal, perhaps this is because of something that burned out in the PCM (a capacitor)? It's only on the one connector, the other is dry and looks fine.
Any ideas?
Last edited by kftzpatrick; 10-18-2009 at 02:21 PM.
#15
Hello again,
I took the PCM out to check the grounds. When I unplugged the connectors, the one plug that handles pin 41-80 is literally covered in a clear yellowish substance ... it almost looks oily. The pins where the connector plugs into are covered in it as well, I just don't think that this is normal, perhaps this is because of something that burned out in the PCM (a capacitor)? It's only on the one connector, the other is dry and looks fine.
Any ideas?
I took the PCM out to check the grounds. When I unplugged the connectors, the one plug that handles pin 41-80 is literally covered in a clear yellowish substance ... it almost looks oily. The pins where the connector plugs into are covered in it as well, I just don't think that this is normal, perhaps this is because of something that burned out in the PCM (a capacitor)? It's only on the one connector, the other is dry and looks fine.
Any ideas?
#16
Take a scanner and check again to see what codes you have and pull the valve cover off to make sure the camshaft is turning. I had the same problem with my car.. I put a new head, water pump and all new gaskets on it. Got it running great then drove 2 minutes down the road and it quit. Every test I checked it passed. Then like mentioned above a guy from here told me to pull the valve cover off check make sure the cam was turning and I may have sheared the cam timing locator pin and sure enough did not have it torqued to the proper spec and the pulley worked loose.
#17
Thank You ...
I rechecked everything as far as timing is concerned. I have everything -except- spark.
I also rechecked all the fuses and they are all fine. I did notice an oily substance coming from the PCM ... it coated the inside of the PCM where the connector plugs into AND it coated the connector itself, but ONLY on the connector that handles pins 41-80 (not both connectors). Does this sound normal?
I also checked all the grounds at the PCM under load (ie: using a headlamp) and the grounds are all great.
Crank Sensor - New
Cam Sensor - New
Power to Coil - Yes (center wire)
Pulsating voltage at Coil - NO (other two wires)
Timing - Dead On
Fuel - Yes, there is fuel to the rail.
Spark - NO
Compression - Plenty of Compression
I'm just stumped and don't want to spend 500+ for a PCM if that's not the problem.
I rechecked everything as far as timing is concerned. I have everything -except- spark.
I also rechecked all the fuses and they are all fine. I did notice an oily substance coming from the PCM ... it coated the inside of the PCM where the connector plugs into AND it coated the connector itself, but ONLY on the connector that handles pins 41-80 (not both connectors). Does this sound normal?
I also checked all the grounds at the PCM under load (ie: using a headlamp) and the grounds are all great.
Crank Sensor - New
Cam Sensor - New
Power to Coil - Yes (center wire)
Pulsating voltage at Coil - NO (other two wires)
Timing - Dead On
Fuel - Yes, there is fuel to the rail.
Spark - NO
Compression - Plenty of Compression
I'm just stumped and don't want to spend 500+ for a PCM if that's not the problem.
Last edited by kftzpatrick; 10-26-2009 at 04:51 PM.
#18
Since you do not have power to the two outside pins, but do to the center wire and since you have checked everything else, it is time to truly consider that your PCM is dead.
You have a 1996 SOHC engine. What tranny? MTX or ATX? There is a junkyard near where I live that has 3 Neons (none are 1995 and all three had ATX's in them - one was a DOHC, and one is SOHC, the last one has the motor and tranny gone, but I can fnd out what it had if I look) and the PCM's are still there. Would you like for me to find out a ballpark price for one? That may give you a better sense of how much it will actually cost to try one out.
You have a 1996 SOHC engine. What tranny? MTX or ATX? There is a junkyard near where I live that has 3 Neons (none are 1995 and all three had ATX's in them - one was a DOHC, and one is SOHC, the last one has the motor and tranny gone, but I can fnd out what it had if I look) and the PCM's are still there. Would you like for me to find out a ballpark price for one? That may give you a better sense of how much it will actually cost to try one out.
#19
Take a scanner and check again to see what codes you have and pull the valve cover off to make sure the camshaft is turning. I had the same problem with my car.. I put a new head, water pump and all new gaskets on it. Got it running great then drove 2 minutes down the road and it quit. Every test I checked it passed. Then like mentioned above a guy from here told me to pull the valve cover off check make sure the cam was turning and I may have sheared the cam timing locator pin and sure enough did not have it torqued to the proper spec and the pulley worked loose.